Why do you say? Its work now, but considering the swing arm moving up and down I can see that being an issue I have to test out.xb33bsa said:
1975 CB360 Freeze-dried Hell Ride
- Thread starter irk miller
- Start date
Is it just the swing arm travel that you're pointing to as an issue? I figure I'll have to add a z-bend in the lever mechanism to get more clearance on the swing arm. The bar is so close to the swing arm, there's no question it's not enough clearance. That's one reason I wonder if a cable may be a better solution. Also, I have a tab set up on the other side of the lever, and another type of linkage where I flipped the bar at the drum to the top, which has the mechanism push instead of pull. It worked, except the bar wants to flex when it pushes. So I'd need to go with a sleeve or thicker bar. I wasn't as comfortable with that setup though, as it seemed like you needed to push further on the brake pedal.xb33bsa said:
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Ellwood said:
They work on anything with a wet clutch, the added oil flow helps keep it cooler and also 'washes' friction plates.
I know when I first did it in the 70's the people I worked with thought I was crazy and clutch would slip :
Even though they had 20~30 years working on bikes, they didn't understand exactly how the mod works
It's such a good mod even the manufacturers do it stock on most bikes
I would fit Bore-Tech CB350 'race' springs, Honda clutches are designed to slip on a stock motor so any modifications that give 'stock' performance (*36bhp at crank) will cause clutch slip around 8~9,000rpm or anytime you do a sloppy gear-change and 'bang' the clutch out
Second attempt at the brake side for the Hayabusa rear set. I think this is a more appropriate setup. With the first attempt, I was so hell bent on working with the pedal's original configuration in keeping the linkages behind the wing, that I ignored the action and effect of the swing arm. So, I tacked the original brake lever's pivot back on. I took the pedal assembly from a XL175, flipped it and cut most of the brake pedal lever off and I took about an inch out of the middle of it's pivot shaft.
Got the frame painted up.
Now it's starting to look like a legitimate motorcycle. But in typical fashion, the exhaust interferes with the brake side rear set. One step forward, two steps back. Now, I have to figure out how to alter the rear set.
Now it's starting to look like a legitimate motorcycle. But in typical fashion, the exhaust interferes with the brake side rear set. One step forward, two steps back. Now, I have to figure out how to alter the rear set.
Thats easy...simply do what I did. Throw your exhaust at the chop saw and run her up and over !
But seriously. the nice 2-1 setup you got makes it a tough issue.
But its an important issue you will certainly have to address soon.
Ive got pics on my blog of "pro built" bikes that have the brake lever angled UP about 45 degrees to make it functional. Not really "professional" if you ask me. LOL.
But seriously. the nice 2-1 setup you got makes it a tough issue.
But its an important issue you will certainly have to address soon.
Ive got pics on my blog of "pro built" bikes that have the brake lever angled UP about 45 degrees to make it functional. Not really "professional" if you ask me. LOL.
the bike is looking good, but ,it would be a shame to cut up that exhaust ,however it does not look to be giving you much lean angle ...is it drooped down further than it wants to be because of the clearance ishoe ?
besides raisng the reaset up, using a sheathed cable is an answer
look at some images of roadrace bikes from the 60's era
if you use a sheathed cable it is better to have it longer and gently looped than short with a circuitous route with too tight of bends
and with the postition of the acutuation point at the foot pedal it may be easier to push the housing with the inner mounted to a stationary point rather than pulling the inner...
this is a method often overlooked
the other issue is that you have decreased the vertical tire clearance in tha rear
it look like it will rub
besides raisng the reaset up, using a sheathed cable is an answer
look at some images of roadrace bikes from the 60's era
if you use a sheathed cable it is better to have it longer and gently looped than short with a circuitous route with too tight of bends
and with the postition of the acutuation point at the foot pedal it may be easier to push the housing with the inner mounted to a stationary point rather than pulling the inner...
this is a method often overlooked
the other issue is that you have decreased the vertical tire clearance in tha rear
it look like it will rub
You're right. I'm not to into the upward angle. In its stock position on a Hayabusa, the brake lever is more level to the ground, even up a little. I drilled and tapped a set screw to keep it slightly downward because I didn't want to have to lift my leg to brake. It requires more sweep than I prefer as it is to get the brake to engage, so I don't want to make any more alterations unless they improve the mechanics of the lever.trek97 said:
I think Yeungling and Glenlivet wrote that last post anyway. What I should have said was alter the exhaust. LOL. It sucks though. I freaking love the way that 2-in-one side sweep exhaust looks. It's like the CB400, but with only two.
I was wondering about the lean angle. Right now it doesn't have a hanger attached, so it does hang lower than it originally was meant to be. I put this exhaust on the bike right after I bought it, so it wasn't an issue then. Although, I never road it on a twisty. I mostly road it around Philly. The exhaust fit between the original stock brake lever and the frame at that time.xb33bsa said:the bike is looking good, but ,it would be a shame to cut up that exhaust ,however it does not look to be giving you much lean angle ...is it drooped down further than it wants to be because of the clearance ishoe ?
besides raisng the reaset up, using a sheathed cable is an answer
look at some images of roadrace bikes from the 60's era
if you use a sheathed cable it is better to have it longer and gently looped than short with a circuitous route with too tight of bends
and with the postition of the acutuation point at the foot pedal it may be easier to push the housing with the inner mounted to a stationary point rather than pulling the inner...
this is a method often overlooked
the other issue is that you have decreased the vertical tire clearance in tha rear
it look like it will rub
I'm glad you brought up the sheathed cable. I had thought about that when you pointed out the bad mechanics/swing arm issue with my first rear brake setup . I think it was yamahas I was looking at that ran cable for the rear drum. They had the stationary point at the opposite side of the drum cover. I don't know if I could do it the same way or not.
As far as I know, the rear end is stock. I replaced the rear springs with the same size shock. I did lower the front end internally on the front forks one inch. I have a 13.5" or 14.5" set of shocks I thought about going with, but they cause the chain to hit the pivot of the swing arm.
I like the rear brake setup on this Dick Madden (or Dick Madden Daytona inspired?) CB750. It looks like he has nearly the same clearance between his brake lever and exhaust as I do with mine. Looks like I might be robbing my mountain bike, too.
Third variation on the rear brake. It's tight, easily adjustable and responsive:
I took the front brake cable off of my XL175 parts bike (the bike that keeps on giving), shortened the sleeve and fabricated two mounts. The brake pedal already has a channel cast into the underside, so I drilled a hole into the inside end, carved a groove for the ferrel and it's all set up. The groove lines up with the arm of the lever, so I don't lose any pedal. The only thing left to figure out is how to finish off the cable at the brake end.
I took the front brake cable off of my XL175 parts bike (the bike that keeps on giving), shortened the sleeve and fabricated two mounts. The brake pedal already has a channel cast into the underside, so I drilled a hole into the inside end, carved a groove for the ferrel and it's all set up. The groove lines up with the arm of the lever, so I don't lose any pedal. The only thing left to figure out is how to finish off the cable at the brake end.
got no leverage broand the angle is all wrong
what you need to do is figure out apprx what leverage ratio the stock lashup had
then factor in that you have a shorter pedal
and like PJ said about the mechanical setup the angles are out of whack and it makes a big diff
There's an upstop. It's threaded into the angle of the underside of the mount and set to engage the bend of the lever where it exits from behind the mount. Without one, the lever is about 30 degrees above level. As far a leverage, I might be confused about how I'm supposed to be setting this up. As it is, I can lock the rear wheel. Am I looking for more than that? Also, am I looking to set up in a way that the cable needs to be pulled the least amount of distance? I was going to mount it in the arm, much like it is in the pic, but for some reason I thought I would need to pull the cable a farther distance to fully engage the brake.xb33bsa said:
