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so you have test ridden it ?
you need to have a certain mechanical advantage
pedal travel and brake wear is why you need adjusters on the cable housing and inner like on that Yamaha copy that Yamaha
but you really should do some math
It doesnt look right but if it works rock it.....any day you'll find a monoshock donor set up with disc brake and this set up will be long forgotten.... Get the grinder ready
so you have test ridden it ?
you need to have a certain mechanical advantage
pedal travel and brake wear is why you need adjusters on the cable housing and inner like on that Yamaha copy that Yamaha
but you really should do some math
There are adjusters at each end of the housing and an upstop. I'll move the cable's mounting point at the pedal to the arm. It should be good from there. That's the only difference from the set up on the Yamaha.
It doesnt look right but if it works rock it.....any day you'll find a monoshock donor set up with disc brake and this set up will be long forgotten.... Get the grinder ready
I'll definitely change the mounting point on the pedal and bring the angle more vertically. But yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I bought the parts with rear set to do it. ;D
This is the fourth version of my hayabusa rear set adaptation. The major lesson learned is to do more research and not rely on intuition. While the most basic physics should be obvious, it can easily be overlooked. These are all exercises in engineering principles. I realize what I thought was good response on the last setup wasn't even close, as this setup is clearly more proper.
that looks great !!
my only suggestion is to gusset those angle brackets that stay the cable housing so they dont flex and break
an excellent alternative is just a short piece of steel tube with a slot is welded on as a cable housing stay
Move the brake plate arm back one spline so it can't contact axle spacer. You don't need the nut inside arm either Get the proper adjuster nut instead of wing nut and washer
Do you mean a nut with the curved side, like what came stock? I would have to drill and re-tap it to accommodate the new ferrule, which shouldn't be a big deal.
Look at dirt bike drum brakes that are cable actualted I beleive there is a spring that goes over the cable on the drum end that forces the arm to return, that is what I would do as it will be mostly hidden vrs. the spring on the pedal. Noce setup though.
Not really, unless cable is loose enough to rattle.
There should be enough return pressure from the brake shoe springs, just keep cable oiled so it doesn't stick
Drilled and tapped the stock adjuster nut to fit the ferrule. Eventually, I'll have to clean up the rust. One thing is for sure, the PO had a special relationship with the wire wheel. This type of business has been all over the bike. The aluminum was gouged something major; front forks especially. Waiting for parts ordered for the shift linkage from Fast From The Past.
I had to mod the seat a bit to accommodate the battery and electronics, so I took the opportunity to french the mounting screws. Two hex screws + rubber fender washers. I'm using the original battery tray mounting points to mount the seat.
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