1976 Honda CB360T - The first step is admitting I have a problem build

Nice light,what did it cost?
Get a 35/35w bulb for it, the 60/55 will work but you need to keep the rpm over 5K so battery doesn't drain
 
crazypj said:
Nice light,what did it cost?
Get a 35/35w bulb for it, the 60/55 will work but you need to keep the rpm over 5K so battery doesn't drain
Click to expand...

$37 from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002M9QJM/

It's a name brand unit, and I couldn't see spending $30 for an antiquated sealed beam unit when I could upgrade for a few dollars more.

I figured the bulb that shipped with it would be overkill. I'm planning on replacing the regulator and rectifier with the Kohler / John Deere unit, but even with increased efficiency of that part of the system, the generator's only going to kick out x number of Watts, right?

So here's the next question; the motor's got 7,000 miles on it, so while I'm tearing it down, should I replace the rings? Bores look good, so I was just going to deglaze them with a hone. I found this set on Ebay though:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/75-76-Honda-CB360T-Standard-Piston-Rings-Set-2-rings-Set-Include-CB360TPR-/130825071805
 
That's a good price for a Hella unit.
It's a good price for rings as well
It's doubtful rings will need replacing at 7,000 miles,check free end gap, it should be around 10mm if rings havent lost tension
 
crazypj said:
That's a good price for a Hella unit.
It's a good price for rings as well
It's doubtful rings will need replacing at 7,000 miles,check free end gap, it should be around 10mm if rings havent lost tension
Click to expand...

Whew, I was hoping to hear that. I can check ring gap when I remove the cylinders and pull the pistons off the rods to disassemble the bottom end. Do you think it's necessary to deglaze the cylinders?
 
Always a good idea to de-glaze, use 400 grit flex hone (or even 400 grit wetordry with some kerosene as lube)
 
More bits arrived today!

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I'm waiting for a replacement cylinder head and a pair of intake valves as well - my current plan is to use the good replacement head to get the motor together and running and to rebuild the original head as a spare or to pass along to some other needy cb360er. I suspect the original head might need the valve seats cut anyway after the intake valves went sideways into them.

I also finally ordered the replacement primary main jets from jetsrus, so by the time I'm done rebuilding the motor those should be here. I do believe that except for the head and some *bond, I have everything needed to overhaul the motor.

Do you folks have a preference for case sealant? HondaBond or YamaBond?
 
Hondabond. its a little more runny than Yamabond. it spreads thinner and more evenly w a small brush. so not as much will squeeze out inside motor upon assembly. Less chance of clogging internals. Just be sure its a thin coat.
Use your torque wrench.
and some sort of thread sealant on bolt threads to avoid galling. Follow the torque chart in your Official Honda workshop manual. the lower number is lubricated bolt values, higher for dry assembly.
 
I'm glad we have a clear consensus lol

They say that when it comes to farm animals, the cow is involved, but the pig is committed. I'm committed now:

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The motor's sitting in my living room waiting for me to dig into the bottom end. Warmer than an unheated garage here!

Bits and pieces fell out of the back of the starter clutch, so that explains why the electric starter wouldn't spin over the motor. I still have to remove the bores and pull the pistons off as well before the motor comes any farther apart...
 
Bits and pieces always fall out, there should be 3 each, rollers, springs, spring seats/plungers
 
crazypj said:
Bits and pieces always fall out, there should be 3 each, rollers, springs, spring seats/plungers
Click to expand...

Yea, I remember that from the 350 I took apart - the parts that fell out didn't look right though :p
 
The cast piece the rollers and springs fit into sometimes shatters if there is am engine problem
I knew a guy who would hit starter button when flat out, he said it gave an extra 5mph, few months later, starter clutch exploded 8)
 
Let me know if you need the starter clutch. I have one that needs a good home. If you don't, I know Thrillseeker is looking as well.
Cheers.
 
Yea, the springs are...somewhere. There are bits of them jammed in the carriers. I think I have good parts from the 350 starter clutch.

Right now I'm working the cylinder bores off the pistons. PITA!
 
I think I may have found the reason the motor went out of time. There's several bits missing down below in the timing tensioner area, and one bolt was replaced with a chunk of RTV silicone. Good times...
 
Wow, so this tensioner assembly in the lower case is frozen in place with a broken off bolt end jammed in it. This thing is so completely messed up it's pretty easy to see how the motor lost time.

I might need a new lower case. Oh, and the oil control rings are broken and cracked in several places. Better and better...
 
It's really not a big deal, you only have 2 of everything to replace ;D
Only single cylinder gets cheaper ;)
The 'horse shoe pivot' is fixable, drill out hole in case and helicoil back to 6mm
 
crazypj said:
It's really not a big deal, you only have 2 of everything to replace ;D
Only single cylinder gets cheaper ;)
The 'horse shoe pivot' is fixable, drill out hole in case and helicoil back to 6mm
Click to expand...

It's actually the spring loaded bolt adjuster thing that's messed up, and it's messed up in both the holes - the PO broke the bolt that is loosened to adjust tension off in the case, and the sliding tensioner is also seized in the case. Yikes. I've been hard at work with a couple of drill bits, but even though I've drilled out the offending pieces, it's still seized in the case. Bleh.
 
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