Yea, I think they used to come with a lot of British cars / bikes. The weird tools and other junk we have lying around that only work on one minuscule subset of motor vehicles is pretty astounding. We have a tub of Whitworth fasteners just for working on British cars that stays on its lonesome away from the metric and standard stuff.
In any case, I didn't make as much progress as I would have liked yesterday, but at the end of the day I did get a good amount of work done. I removed the head / bore studs with careful application of a small pipe wrench and was then able to remove the remains of the very stuck base gasket. I now have the entire upper case free of old gasket bits, which is good. The bores got a hone and I removed gasket residue from the tops and bottoms as well as the old o-rings from the bottoms.
I ran into trouble disassembling the head - I was able to get two of the valves off, but only could get one back on with my whack-a-mole valve keeper remover before I ran out of time and motivation. I'm going to go rent or buy one of those c-clamp style spring compressors so I can finish lapping the valves and replacing the valve stem seals. The only other thing the head will then need is a bit more JB Weld on the points side bearing saddle. That will then get a final cleaning and oiling before being tucked away in a plastic bag.
Pictures!
Kinda dark, but I promise the combustion chambers have been cleaned up.
Here's a closer shot of the one side before lapping.
I also started de-ringing the pistons. Man are those rings in awful shape! They are seized hard in their lands - so far I've only managed to remove one ring intact, and two others in little pieces. One piston has a 1.5" piece still stuck in it, and the other has an entire ring still stuck. I'm soaking them in PB Blaster, but may move up to Coke or some other phosphoric acid containing compound like naval jelly if that doesn't do the trick.
There is so much burnt oil and sludge in every little bit of this motor that it is unbelievable! I suspect it received not many oil changes in its life, ugh. Another reason to run synthetic - good luck sludgeing oil that has a maximum operating temp of 302*F and a flash point of 446*F!
PJ, do you use any treatments on the base / head / breather gaskets and the base o-rings? On the side cover gaskets I know to use heavy grease to help them seal and make them easy to remove, and *Bond on the rocker box and case, but wasn't sure if all the other gaskets were installed dry or not. Thanks!
I emailed them to see if they could be added to my order to save on shipping. I saw you recommend Rotella 5w40 synthetic in the 360s as long as HD springs are used. I use that flavor of Rotella in my turbo Subaru, so that's good I can use it in the bike too. The turbo Subarus have flat tappets, so the Rotella really quiets them down at idle when they are hot. Plus, it deals with the heat of the turbo a lot better than other oils I've used. 
