Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
Hey bud...thats neater than $%^& but my machine arent treating them properly to save for printing. could you please email the pdf files. AND can I post em to my blog?
hondabrat.com@gmail.com
thanks
Seriously, the CB350 chain is one link too long? I have to break and stake the chain for this!?!?! Oh well, better than no chain.
Yay for heavy duty clutch springs as well!
I also received an ignition switch bracket, which was missing from the frame. I should see the replacement cases tomorrow, which means I can at least assemble the bottom end of this beast! The last part I need is the piston rings, and those might still be a week out. Getting the bottom end together should keep me out of trouble though...
Yea, I realized that after staring at it for a while. Removing one link and replacing it with a master link results in a chain of the same length I started with
The tensioners are actually in very good shape, which might be the only parts of the motor in good shape, lol! I'm glad to hear this chain will help keep them that way.
I'm going to be refreshing the tracking info on the new engine cases all day today...so close to being able to button this thing back up!
lol, you're right there - there's probably some guy at the Post Office telling the mailman to drive slower every time I hit "refresh"
From the pictures I saw, the spring loaded plunger in the bottom case looked identical to the one that's currently seized hard in the original bottom case. The guy I bought it from said the bike was a runner before he tore it down, and the pictures he had of the rest of the motor bits showed that it was in good condition even with 19,000 miles on it. I'm hopeful.
Apparently I need to get a screw or something to thread into the plunger to pull it back in order to install the tensioner? I was reading the tensioner recall TSB from Honda, and they have something called the "push bar tool" that is used during install. Is that needed during an overhaul?
I lost mine years ago, you only need special tool if your not stripping motor, with it in pieces you just push the plunger all the way in and lock it.
If I remember right, it's a 3mm thread
I lost mine years ago, you only need special tool if your not stripping motor, with it in pieces you just push the plunger all the way in and lock it.
If I remember right, it's a 3mm thread
The new to me case arrived today, and the seller was nice enough to leave the historically accurate mud and grime on it, so it got a good scrubbing. The tensioner assembly is in good shape, and came out of the case just fine for me to inspect and clean. The upper case had all three of the marks on the serial number tag indicating all the recalls had been done.
The kicker that came with it felt a little loose, so I'll cherry pick the best parts out of both kickers. I have to get a cam chain breaker tool to shorten the cam chain, but I might just assemble the bottom end with the cam chain as it is, and break it and shorten it later. I'd like to start putting some parts back together!
Of course I don't have any assembly lube on hand, so reassembly is going to have to wait at least until I have that...
More excitement with this build...the weights on the timing advance unit are broken
I also realized that I can't close up the bottom end until the clip that retains the shift drum fork pin arrives in the mail. I suspect a paperclip is not a good substitute ;D
Anyone have a spare advancer they'd like to part with?
There's some on ebay for $25-$35, so I might have to go that route. It's such a strange failure as well - the little metal bits were floating around inside the indents of the center of the advancer. It's like someone pried the weights with a screwdriver or something dumb like that. Given the other A+ : work on this bike, I guess nothing would surprise me at this point!
Yep, someone screwed up real good, I've never seen those broken off before.
Most likely advancer was seized and they tried to pry open weights to turn cam?
'Brand new' cost of advancer unit was over $60.00 in 1974 ;D
Oh man, that's never good when you haven't seen it before PJ If it was seized, they did free it up, because the weights move well. I suspect the little old lady who only rode it on Sundays to and from church had some serious arm muscles on her
There's a guy on HondaTwins who might have one, but he wanted me to check the number stamped on the advancer - it's supposed to be 312 or 369. Does that matter?
Yea, Sonreir, I'll have to bite the bullet and cough up the money for one. It hurts when I got all the aluminum of the top and bottom cases for $50, and it's going to cost me at least $25 for a teeny piece of steel.
Then again, me reassembling the bottom end of the motor is being held up by a $4 clip that holds one of the shift fork pins in place...
lol, actually the cam and head were in good shape. Well, other than the two bent intake valves. And the dried up valve seals. And the coating of oil and dirt on it. And the mysterious 10mm bolt rattling around inside the breather cover. And the fact that the points cover had been left off the bike until the points and advancer and turned mostly into oxide.
I'm starting to think this bike would have been overpriced at $50! ;D
Sorry, I meant points cam, it runs on a tube that fits on cam extension
There should be 2 bolts under breather cover holding cam cover down, many times people don't remove cover and beat on head when it won't come off :
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.