1976 Honda cj 360

3DogNate said:
If you need a part I have a seized donor motor than can probably be robbed.... I'm in Bloomington so it is not that far from you...

Same here I've got a 360 parts motor sitting in my shop doing nothing.
I'd hate to see you abandon a project after working so hard!
 
Thanks guys! Now that I've slept on it I will pull the engine tonight. I will keep posting on what I find


Chris
 
It's out . Took about an hour. Now to split it and see


Chris
 

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Well got the case split and the whole mechanism had come apart. Damn snap ring must have slid off the end


Chris
 
Rode the 24 mile round trip to bromz house. Got some great action shots...
Now Im not one to laugh at somebody else's pain...but what are friends for???
Heres a little Wheres Waldo game for ya!!!

installing a new Jesus clip...

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Here he is "smiling" happy to have her hondabonded back together and installing bolts.

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torquing things nicely, still smiling but thats about to change...can YOU find the reason why?

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Now he is not smiling and breaking out the power tools! Did you find the problem yet?

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Maybe this will help...

before

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after

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Thanks for your supervision tonight trek!! Got the decals on and clear coated the tank
Can't so anything while the hondabond is setting


Chris
 

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Man some of my clearcoat has cracked on the tank. Why does this happen and how do I fix it ?


Chris
 

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Could be due to incompatible types of colour and clear coat, what did you use for each? Could also be that the colour paint wasn't fully cured before putting on the clear.
 
Yep, Perry is right, if the clear and colour are 2 very different products like one is epoxy and the other enamel. you need to make sure the base is fully cured, not just dry, before you apply the clear or it continues to off gas under it. Big difference between dry and cured. It is best to use a colour and a clear that are the same type if you want to do all the coats in a short time, but reading the cans and following what they say is always the best bet. A lot of paints have a recoat window of <20 mins or >7 days , <4 hrs or >14 days etc and that is for the time it takes to completely off gas and fully harden. If you want to get it done quick Duplicolor auto lacquers are really fast cure and can have a good 2K Clear applied over them in like 2 hours I believe for a really good finishe that is fuel safe etc. Just make sure if you use a 2K clear that you wear a respirator, not a dust mask and cover your eyes and all exposed skin.
 
HerrDeacon said:
Could also be that the colour paint wasn't fully cured before putting on the clear.

It's actually the opposite, in many cases.

If you're rattle canning the clear coat and you're using enamel paint, the solvent in the clear begins to dissolve the color beneath it.

To get around this, you should apply enamel clear coat while the final coat of color is still wet.

Or, use a two-part clear coat, instead. Spraymax 2K is a good option.
 
Some enamels will take about 6 weeks to fully cure, much longer if the weather is cold
 
+4 everyone is right.

the solvents in the fresh clear are attacking the uncured paint coat.

Either clear within 10 minutes of spraying the color coat or at the minimum 7 days after.

You will have to sand her back down to primer and do it again.

Also, Im sure you noticed the ugly streaks in my tank paint the other evening...thats from gas spilling.

Like Sonreir said' guys seem to have great luck w the 2K stuff.
 
Well she is back together. Lost the #10 ball bearing for the clutch mechanism. Anyone know where I can buy one? (Store) also have paint to fix on the tank. I will be out of town for a week so I will have to continue later. Her first start will have to wait.


Chris
 

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It's a standard 5/16" ball bearing
Surprisingly, Honda used a lot of inch size stuff
 
the bike fired up this morning on the 5 th kick!!! Just a valve needs adjusted and one gasket needs replaced. But she runs!


Chris
 
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