1978 CB750 Cafe build second attempt

This is loosely what I am trying to accomplish with this build. Two up seat, super bike bars, black fenders. I wanted colored side covers and mine won't have these hi dollar jacked up shocks.
 
DUDE! I don't even have that pic of Her... until now that is. ;)
Started on a set of side covers but need to go a different route... wasn't looking like I imagined.
Thanks for the interest
 
Is there a secret to turning these 36 year old pieces of plastic back into something resembling rubber?
 
not really,
they will most likely be cracked where the seams are.
But they should be that hard, cause other wise they would collapse at full throttle...

hard to find, well for an F2 they are, don't know for a K7?

have you got bolts and calipers yet?
Don't you think it would be easier to swap to an F2 fork (or lowers)?
I have a complete set, front comstar wheel, two rotors, to calipers etc..
 
check with these guys they used to make them

http://www.claussstudios.com/index.html
 
koendd said:
have you got bolts and calipers yet?
Don't you think it would be easier to swap to an F2 fork (or lowers)?
I have a complete set, front comstar wheel, two rotors, to calipers etc..
Click to expand...

Yes, all ready with the front end including this cool rotor surfaced and drilled by a fellow DTT member.
 
Well with the 550 together it was time to tear the 750 down. Remember the spark plug broke off in the head? Well I took the engine apart and the rings on #1 are stuck in the piston. Soaking downstairs hope for the best. Before I get any parts on the way I am off to the machine shop tomorrow to see if he can get the remains of the plug out. Frame loaded in the Tahoe to go to the car wash, man this is one dirty bike.
 
Well we have a workable head. I called my trusted machinist thinking he had some voodoo magic and this is how it went down. I drilled out the remains of the plug one size up at a time so the drill would center itself without drilling the head. I think I stopped at 3/8" . Next I took a jig saw blade and gripped it with a vise grip. I slowly cut into the plug lengthwise until I felt threads. I repeated this again about 1/8" away from my first cut. at this point I took a small screwdriver, wedged it between the head and plug and pried the threads out. After I chased the threads I installed a new plug and no leaks... Any clue how to remove the top rings from the piston?
 
i have a old deep frier in the shop what i do is throw the piston in the deep fryer let it heat up for a bit

then cool it off in hot water (be careful) then brush off the rust and crap and repeat after a few times

then start trying to move the ring whole the piston is hot it will come free

this also works mint on old locks
 
cxman said:
i have a old deep frier in the shop what i do is throw the piston in the deep fryer let it heat up for a bit

then cool it off in hot water (be careful) then brush off the rust and crap and repeat after a few times

then start trying to move the ring whole the piston is hot it will come free

this also works mint on old locks
Click to expand...

Is it old motor oil?
 
motor oil will stink as the oil gets to 300-350 more than motor oil can handle so do it out doors

or use vegetable oil then wash it all of after that way you can do it indoors

its the heat and expansion/ contraction that does the work
 
Well just two questions today:
What is this tab for?Is it part of the chain guard?

What type of material is this and do the lines help?

Making the seat pan to fit the hoop.
 
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