Any recommendations on the best place to buy regulators, relays? I've been buying a lot of parts from DCC, but I'm not seeing those specific parts on there I assume selecting a relay is pretty straight forward as long as it mentions that it works with LED's. But how do I know what type of regulator to buy? Also, I assume any LED signals I buy are all the same when it comes to what type of relay I need correct?
1st time build-1980 Suzuki GS750 Cafe
- Thread starter claygs750
- Start date
mechdesign2k4
Chop-N-Change
claygs750 said:
the relay can be bought from any auto parts store, like, http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_electronic-turn-signal-flasher-tridon-(novita-tech-inc)_5060001-p?searchTerm=electronic+flasher
The reg/rec, I've seen them from $80-$150+, I never bought one but, guys are using these on their GS's with success. I cant confirm or deny.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CAN-AM-SPYDER-2010-RS-ROADSTER-SE5-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-ASSY-/200976143276?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ecb1c93ac&_uhb=1
When buying the relays what other specs do I look at besides being 12v and LED compatible? Is there a minimum wattage I need? The same goes for the regulator, obviously I don't want the stock regulator and wanted a larger one so do I go based on physical size or is there a spec that I need to look at?
mechdesign2k4
Chop-N-Change
the relay I linked to should be carried locally. 12v, "electronic" for flashers. Electronic as opposed to mechanical like the old fashion ones. Why would you want a bigger regulator?
Great regulator write up.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/r-r_replacement.pdf
and this...
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/stator_check.pdf
Great regulator write up.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/r-r_replacement.pdf
and this...
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/stator_check.pdf
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
Have you read "The Stator Papers" I- IV over on www.theGSResources.com ?
Excellent pages writen especially for your vintage Zook's charging system. They can be found here... http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm
Excellent pages writen especially for your vintage Zook's charging system. They can be found here... http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm
On a different note what do you guys think the best way to clean the engine is to prep it for paint? So far I've used a toothbrush with WD40 and simple green, but I'm afraid it will leave a film that would cause problems with the paint adhesion. Someone mentioned brake cleaner since it's dries so quick.
mechdesign2k4
Chop-N-Change
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-18-oz-Heavy-Duty-Foaming-Degreaser-ZUHFD18/202218291
and this....
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-32-oz-Fast-505-Industrial-Cleaner-and-Degreaser-ZU50532/202671716
and elbow grease.... I wouldnt use brake fluid as it is extremely caustic...
and this....
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-32-oz-Fast-505-Industrial-Cleaner-and-Degreaser-ZU50532/202671716
and elbow grease.... I wouldnt use brake fluid as it is extremely caustic...
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
WD-40 is not good... Silicon contamination = fish-eyes.
Now you need to get ALL of that off from there and it is water repelant by design so you can't just wash it off.
Now you need to get ALL of that off from there and it is water repelant by design so you can't just wash it off.
It is a good way to get off the hard to remove crap. Same principle of sand blasting except you don't have to clean parts off grease and oil before hand. The soda leaves a water soluble film so it is easy to clean off. Because the blast media is a powder it won't destroy the engine if it gets in there. Ohh and you can take the engine in one piece just cover up any ports or breathers
Best bet if you have already removed most of the gunk is wax and grease with a fine stainless wire brush.
Best bet if you have already removed most of the gunk is wax and grease with a fine stainless wire brush.
mechdesign2k4
Chop-N-Change
Yesclaygs750 said:
Ok, finally some warmth and I can get back to the build.The engine cleaning process is done and the paint will be complete this weekend. So my question is what is the best way to install the engine without scratching the hell out of the frame. Due to my excitment I've got about everything put back on the frame, but the more I read the more I see people are laying the engine on the ground and placing the frame on top. Is this the best way to go? All I have is a motorcycle and regular jack stand. Thanks
Yea I know. I need to find something to wrap the frame with like a blanket or some towels during install. I sprayed the frame with bedliner so not sure how easy it will be to touch up.
While I'm talking to you let me ask you this....I bought a new chain and it's packed with what looks like is some type of white grease. Since I won't have a chain guard, mud flap ect when I first start riding the bike and the chain gets heated up will this grease sling over everything and cause a huge mess?
While I'm talking to you let me ask you this....I bought a new chain and it's packed with what looks like is some type of white grease. Since I won't have a chain guard, mud flap ect when I first start riding the bike and the chain gets heated up will this grease sling over everything and cause a huge mess?
Not sure about the chain grease. I would imagine it would stick fairly well to the chain.
I use chain oil and that is know for flicking about causing a mess.
If it does make a mess you can always just clean it up with some wax and grease remover. Maybe temporary guards would be an idea.
I use chain oil and that is know for flicking about causing a mess.
If it does make a mess you can always just clean it up with some wax and grease remover. Maybe temporary guards would be an idea.
