360 swiftly

andoor said:
My bike ran great! I did notice some interesting steering response on some of the more worn-in roads. Definitely doing a fork brace this weekend. I may play around with tire pressures as well.
I also learned that even though my seat looks awesome. Long rides, 1” foam, and my bony ass don’t mix! The back end also bounces around a lot off of bumps because I weight nothing. I need to get rid of all the spring preload or gain like 30 pounds. I would have to eat like 10,000 calories a day with my metabolism!

The problem isn't 1" foam, it's stock footrests.
Rear sets will make bike a lot more comfortable, plus, moving your weight back could actually make shocks work.
I have 3 layers of carpet underlay glued together and can do over 100 miles no problem
I know no one likes a know it all, but, I know a lot, up to you if you listen
 
360 swiftly

mtrace- the slide cutaway is a 2.5. That is the stock size that ships with the vm 30. I would recommend double checking everything before starting to tune the carbs (timing, valves, vacuum leaks) . I had some unsolved issues that made it very difficult to get my carbs right. It ended up being a leaky carb boot. Once that was fixed it made my life much easier.

PJ- Your wisdom is always welcome! I do notice that I have to be right up on the tank to be comfortable. I will start throwing around the idea of rear sets and see what I can come up with. I would like to keep passenger pegs thought.



Started working on the front fork brace. I can't decide on a fender shape so for now I am just going to use the brace. Cleaned it up and got rid of all the rust. I just need to throw some paint on it.
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Thanks for posting the carb settings. Ill have to fine tune a little but my bike is running better than ever with the same setting settings as yours. Just a slight rich spot at 1/8 throttle.
 
mtrace535 said:
Thanks for posting the carb settings. Ill have to fine tune a little but my bike is running better than ever with the same setting settings as yours. Just a slight rich spot at 1/8 throttle.

No problem glad it worked out for you, but you should really thank Kanticoy. He is the one who gave me the info on the needle / needle jet.

Now that I have put some miles on I have noticed that this tuning is great for around town and backroads riding sub 55mph (mostly what I do), but the top end is rich and leaves not much pulling power when cruising at about 70mph on the highway.

After I upgrade my coils and front brake lines I am going to play around with the carbs and see If I can get it better tuned for the highway. It may be a while. I am pretty much tapped out for cash. I'm glad I finished the bike before I hit this point!
 
Tuning update. With the setup previously posted the bike was running rich, but still rideable and not fouling plugs. The main issue was that the idle got very unstable once she was warmed up. I just switched to a 22.5 pilot (screw one turn out), and the idle is now rock solid! The only issue left to fix is a little bit of a stumble from idle to about ¼ throttle. I am thinking this is the needle still being too rich so I have ordered the next leanest size (6DH7) since the clip is already at the top.

Another interesting thing I noticed this morning is when at cruising speed (70mph) it was about 6k rpms when it was rich. Now I am about 5,500 at 70. I was thinking about going up a tooth in the front, but I may not need to re-gear if the rpms drop even more when I get the jetting dialed in.
 
Hmmm.....rpm vs. terminal speed should be pretty rock solid since it's a mechanical function ie: crank to trans to chain to wheel to road. I wonder if you had some very minor clutch slip perhaps?
 
Swagger said:
Hmmm.....rpm vs. terminal speed should be pretty rock solid since it's a mechanical function ie: crank to trans to chain to wheel to road. I wonder if you had some very minor clutch slip perhaps?

I have been trying to think about what would cause the lower RPM and how that may relate to the carb tuning, as that is the only thing that has changed since the bike was ridden 2 days ago. The only thing that I can come up with is that maybe now (with the new carb tuning) the engine is running at a different temperature and that is causing the clutch to react differently?? The clutch on this bike does feel funny occasionally, but what I have experienced feels more like it is not fully disengaging. On my way home tonight I will see if I can get the clutch to slip!
 
Hmm...interesting. Yeah I'd love to hear what happens, love a good mystery.
All that aside, glad to hear she's purring along even better!
 
I was wrong. The stumble at 1/4 throttle was from a lean condition, but at the top end the bike runs fine. I moved my needle clip down one to see if that helps richen up the low end, but it may destroy top end again. I may have to go back and study the needle diameters/tapers in the sudco book to see if I can find something to work.

What part of the needle would most effect say 1/4 to 1/2 throttle?

I would guess the straight diameter, and the taper comes into play as throttle is opened to 1/2 plus.
 
I'm coming in a bit late to this one, but I'm going to assume you're using slide carbs since you're talking about the needle position...

The needle affects the mixture from about 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. WOT is not affected by the needle at all.

If you're lean at both 1/4 and 3/4 throttle, the needle needs to be raised.
If you're rich at both 1/4 and 3/4 throttle, the needle needs to be lowered.
If you're lean at 1/4 but rich at 3/4, you need a needle with more taper.
If you're rich at 1/4 but lean at 3/4, you need a needle with less taper.
If you're having problems from idle to 1/4 (especially when snapping the throttle open), try adjusting the float height.
 
360 swiftly

I get really bored at work sometimes. I took a look at the next needle size in each direction. I think the 6DH7 I have on order will do the trick.
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So I got the new needles installed and I am now good from 1/2 throttle to full but 1/4 to 1/2 is way to rich. My question is what range of throttle does the needle jet effect??? I have found conflicting info, each of these says something different.


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Needle jet is thought to operate from just over quarter throttle but actually works all the way through to full throttle (it's the fuel discharge point)
It's easier to comparmentalise the various parts in diagrams but the transitions overlap a lot
The needle and jet working together restrict flow at lower throttle positions, as throttle is opened further, the area between needle and needle jet has less effect as it's larger than area of main jet (and , just for fun, Mikuni make jets with different discharge rates with same numbers)
If you have the 'hood' type (primary choke), two stroke' emulsion tube/needle jet, you could try drilling a hole through the upright part.
Start at 1/16" then increase by 1/32" if needed up to about 1/8"
Only problem is, you don't know how far you need to go until you've gone too far
It's not even close to ideal, but, it works

I would do pilot jet and air screw, it's a very rare carburetor that has the pilot system 'switch off' above 1/4 throttle
Some Mikuni's do, but I've only seen it on CV carbs
The 'throttle valve' is the slide cutaway, do you have the 'stock' 2.5?
Where do you have fuel level set?
Try raising the float 0.5~1.0mm (so fuel shuts off earlier, lower in float bowl)
 
Thanks for the info PJ!

I have my pilots leaned out about as much as I can go, so that's a dead end. What’s weird is that with the 6DH4 needle I had no problems in the low end. It is surprising that 0.004mm of needle diameter has such a great effect. With the 6DH7 the bike is ride-able but stumbles around 3-4k RPM. The main problem is if in neutral and I rev the bike quickly it dies before 3k, but if I roll on slow it will rev all the way up. Never had this problem before the needle change.

I don’t remember where I set the floats exactly, but I do know that they are within the Mikuni spec of 22-24mm. I will try raising them and see if that helps. If not I many try and order the next leanest size needle jet (O-8 159) or start picking your brain about drilling out the ones I have. And the slides are whatever came in the VM30 2.5 I think.
 
If you're been over the carbs from top to bottom and your pilot jet is as leaned out as it will go, I'd take a look at timing. Try advancing it 5° or so and then resetting the mixture on the pilot system after things are warmed up. See if that makes a difference to how easily the bike takes throttle. An important note: Don't rev it up to high during this "test". You're only wanting to test the effect of advance and lower RPMs. You rev it up too high (especially under load) and you could get pre-ignition / detonation from over advanced timing.

If timing is too retarded then mixture screws tend to have little effect (especially at idle) and so you can't dial in a mixture that lets your bike rev freely when you snap the throttle.
 
Thanks sonreir

Looks like I have a few things to try before I spend even more money on new brass. Now I just need the time to do it!!
 
A couple of weeks ago I pulled the carbs off and checked the floats. I don't know what happened but they were about 3mm difference. So I got them even and set them 1mm higher. The bike doesn't die anymore when revved, but still has some hesitation. When I get some time I will set the floats 1mm higher and see if that does it.
On a side note the clutch is going!! Hopefully it will last a few more weeks before I put her away for the winter
 
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