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A word of warning to anyone who hasn't used body filler before: Less is definitely more.
I laid this stuff on way too thickly and now I get to spend 2 hours with 120 grit sanding it down by hand. Because it's so thick there's also some pockets of air that have developed which will need to be refilled. *sigh*
I had to take it down further than I would have liked because I laid it on too thick the first time and ended up with bubbles and other irregularities.
So now I can add more bondo to the tank, hopefully doing it correctly this time around and keeping the coats THIN.
Dunno if the place you buy the bondo from has a cheese grater file but they work wonders on getting the ridges down and the shape close enough for the hand sanding part. You wait till the bondo is sorta dry but feels like hard clay and then go to town on it.
And orbital sander or cheapo palm sander and good paper helps a ton too.
I've trimmed it down a fair bit now using a 40 grit wheel on my angle grinder. I had to be a bit careful though... that stuff comes off fast with course grit and power tools.
I did a bunch of work on an old truck back in high school and I learned or made up just about every way to work with the stuff. IF you screw up really bad, an angle grinder and a wire wheel will take the stuff off in a hurry but not hurt the metal under it. I even had to use some solder filler in a few places because the plastic would crack when it flexed. That was some tricky stuff to use, but fun.
I was hoping to get some painting and filler work done this weekend, but the temps have been too low; hovering just above freezing. To occupy my time I've disassembled my carbs and boiled them in lemon juice for about 10 minutes. The carb bodies themselves are VERY clean now (though covered in gray powder. Aluminum oxide?). The lemon juice didn't do much for the brass or the float bowls though. And all the brass-plated hardware has had its plating stripped off by the boiling process. I'm thinking maybe I shouldn't have boiled the hardware along with the bodies and bowls... Time to pick up some new brass screws.
Also... is loctite recommended or required on any of the assembly of the carbs? If so, which color(s)?
To be honest I hate loc-tite but I have my reasons. I would think that would be a good way to end up with stripped bowl screws after you have to take the carbs off for jetting and such, or just for cleaning. JMHO.
I don't know if it would help on your float bowls, but I boiled mine for 30 minutes. Mine were pretty gummed up though. Float bowls looked good after, for the record.
Carbs cleaned and now reassembled. I scuffed up the paint on the diaphragm covers and so I'll need to redo it, but I'm pleased with how the new allen screws look.
I did have one bolt leftover, but it's not shown in either manuals or in the microfiche. Maybe got mixed in there, somehow?
I took the springs out of their two week bath of muriatic acid, today. Most of the chrome came off and they're just about where I want them.
After coming out of the acid, they went into a bath of water and baking soda for 20 minutes. I followed that up with a few passes on a stiff brass wheel to remove the rest of the flaking chrome and nickel. After 4 hours in the oven at 400°F (hydrogen embrittlement is bad) I gave them another pass on the brass wheel and then a wipedown with alcohol.
Tomorrow they're going to go for a bath in PlastiDip.
Well the PlastiDip was a complete failure. It was a lot thicker than I had anticipated and it ended up "bridging" the gaps between a lot of the coils. Where it didn't it had a nasty-looking dripping effect, much like melted wax.
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