Cheers Weasel, they have taken some time for sure. Im looking forward to seeing your lowers back from the coaters, might have to strip my front end apart and send the lowers in for treatment alsoWeasel said:That's a lot of work. Looks good.
kiwiguy said:I dont know how you can add pictures and then text then more pictures, so I will have to do it as separate posts)
redwillissuperman said:Truly, anything in tension like an axle or bolt, should be one piece. If the factory could get away with two-piece, they would have.
johnu said:Nice work mate! I assume the axles is hollow right? Why would you need to splice a piece on the the end and not just turn it down to the required dia? Maybe I missed something (very possible )
Tune-A-Fish said:Meh, that axle welded as shown would be fine, the weld will be in the bearing and swingarm location fully supported. Unless he can swage the end like factory I would loose zero sleep welding it chuck it up and turn it to spec. Wonder if he can cold forge the other end or will he weld a chunk of drilled flat stock up :
yeah mate, axle is hollow. it has a larger ID than the OE axle, so have opted for the 20mm thread vs 18mmjohnu said:Nice work mate! I assume the axles is hollow right? Why would you need to splice a piece on the the end and not just turn it down to the required dia? Maybe I missed something (very possible )
sorry mate, think were both a bit lost here. the two axle sections are only what I have got up to. I still require to machine the ends off (from what was held in the lathe) and I will put threads either end, one will be the bolt end as normal (take the nut etc) and the other will have a piece of bar stock machined down, threaded and bolted on and then welded and re machined to resemble a 1 piece OE axle. hope this makes sense.jpmobius said:I have actually done this and totally agree; also think it not merely bomb proof, but overkill after doing the job. I admit to being confused though - Can you not simply machine the end? Or is it a tube and the threaded section too small a diameter? Regardless, as long as the weld is good, there should be no issue. You could make the axle out of some pretty crappy material and it would still have plenty of shear capacity, and the welding would have to be pretty awful to not be able to provide sufficient clamping pressure, which is really the more important part. The quality of the assembled elements and sufficient clamping pressure is critical to get the most structural value from the assembly.
Edit - never mind - re read a couple of posts.
above my tooling and skill levels for that I feelTune-A-Fish said:Go back a page, the scab is my doing... The sock axle has a swaged end.
I think were on the same page, this is what the axle should look like when finished.Tune-A-Fish said:Mang... you know what your doing, I had an idea and should of kept it to myself.
So I have another and here it is: Could you duplicate the end (stop end) "shape" of the factory axle from the bolt you intend to use, thread it on chuck it up low speed and weld the inside rad then while in the lathe trim it up nice like no weld process happened. This I think has a round end with two flat spots that mate with the adjuster block yes? You could step mushroom it for a factory works look