Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
Got all the electric starter parts off the bike last night. Brought the ac generator into work today to remove the starter clutch housing. Got 1 out of 3 off with out having to use a screw exctractor... Damn those philiips head bolts all to hell!!!
Now i'm just waiting for the starter block off plug I bought off ebay, and my new gasket. Also got my new stainless button head boltse yesterday.
So I got some 4 new o rings, tried with grease and oil neither worked. Upon further inspection I noticed the o ring on the plug is sitting out further than my starter I ring. So I'm thinking the o ring landing want not machined deep enough.... Hopefully this can get sorted quickly. Not than I am any where near riding. But I'm impatient, and I want shit to just fit, when I purchase it. Ok end rant, just mildly frustrated!!
Crazypj makes the proper 360 plugs. So, send him some cake and get your money back for that POS . He probably has one fresh out of the lathe just waiting for a shipment address. Also, may ask him about the other things he makes for the 360. You may need to place a full order.
Hes sending his MKII tach plug out to me today.
The o-ring on your starter is worn. Thats why its thinner. Clean the grease off and stick the plug with the ring on it in the freezer overnight. Regrease and try again in the a.m.
As far as the stacks...
You NEED to figure out a way to add filter material. Just screens will not stop most dirt and dust from being sucked into your carbs and likely causing damage. Stacks are generally a bad idea on street bikes as they can negatively effect the bikes air/fuel mix throught different stages of the rev range. That and the lack of proper filtering can lead to some nasty shit ending up inside the carba and motor. They definitely look rad, but not all race parts should be used on the street.
I will give the freezer trick a try. Hopefully that will help.
I measured the o-ring grooves this morning. and the plug inside of the groove is 1.721" and the starter inside is 1.682". I'm thinking this might be a contributing factor in it not fitting. :-\
I appreciate the input on the stacks. I'm not completely sure if i will use those stacks or not. But If i do, I will for sure put a filter on them.
VonYinzer said:
The o-ring on your starter is worn. Thats why its thinner. Clean the grease off and stick the plug with the ring on it in the freezer overnight. Regrease and try again in the a.m.
As far as the stacks...
You NEED to figure out a way to add filter material. Just screens will not stop most dirt and dust from being sucked into your carbs and likely causing damage. Stacks are generally a bad idea on street bikes as they can negatively effect the bikes air/fuel mix throught different stages of the rev range. That and the lack of proper filtering can lead to some nasty shit ending up inside the carba and motor. They definitely look rad, but not all race parts should be used on the street.
Got an email back from the manufacture, they are going to send me a new plug. This one has a smaller ID on the o ring groove. 1.71" hopefully this will help.
Looking on ebay for a master cylinder/clutch for 1" bars. And came across allot of good deal on Harley take offs. They are 9/16" master cylinder. Will this work with the CB360?
9/16" master cylinder bore is equal to a 14mm bore. Factory 360 master cylinder is 12mm. I suspect using a 9/16" master cylinder will fling you over the handle bars. :-\
9/16" master cylinder bore is equal to a 14mm bore. Factory 360 master cylinder is 12mm. I suspect using a 9/16" master cylinder will fling you over the handle bars. :-\
mmm.. Might have to look more into this. I was looking into this a while back. And from what I read. The bigger the bore, the harder it would be to pull the brake lever. I don't think the bike would stop and better/worse. I would just have a different brake lever feel... Anyone? Is this correct?
The bigget the bore the greater the pressure exerted on the pistons, i.e. greater stopping force. I've ridden ultra light vintage bikes with modern front brakes and they will stop you in your tracks before you know what happened.
Some folks will purposely bleed air into the system to "soften" the response. Youre better off just getting the correct size master for your application.
The bigget the bore the greater the pressure exerted on the pistons, i.e. greater stopping force. I've ridden ultra light vintage bikes with modern front brakes and they will stop you in your tracks before you know what happened.
Some folks will purposely bleed air into the system to "soften" the response. Youre better off just getting the correct size master for your application.
Thanks for the explaination... The PO, must of put a replacment master cylinder on it then, it has a 13/16" MC installed. ???
Off to look for a 12mm MC.. Thanks
If I use the stock caliper, but a modern master cylinder. Do you get the same effect?
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.