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Got a couple of questions hoping someone can help me out with.
First is rear sets, was looking at these, they are for a CB160:
http://www.speedmotoco.com/product-p/00xx2.htm
The main issue i can see is that the 160 uses a cable operated rear drum and the 100 uses a rod activated rear drum. So not sure if these will work.....thoughts?
Second is carbs, the engine is in pieces at the moment so looking at getting a carb ordered ready for when it should be back together next week. Been looking at mikuni VM carbs but not sure what size.
The engine is being bored out to 125cc so figured coudl go bigger than the stock carb.
Those rear sets will work, you will simply have to make a cable stop that can bolt on at the point where the torque arm joins the lug on the rear brake drum. Do a bit of research and see whether your carb is the same size as the 125, I think the 125 is 22 mm. Going bigger than standard is not really worth the effort unless you are going to a stupid state of tune. You may be able to just jet yours up.
Had the frame blasted. Etch primed it last week now laying down some coats if matte black. Using engine enamel to give a bit more protection from any fuel or oil that may drip on the frame.
Just need to workout what to do for clear coat, or if to leave it as is.
If u are doing rattlecan painting there are a few brands, i dont know if there is one called Quick in your part of the world?
The last two times i`ve done non-gloss clear from a rattlecan i bought paint for furniture or interior or something.
If you have a compressor any paintshop can mix matte clear,some can allso do it for rattlecans!!
Keep it up. Nice Build!
No prob. Test it on a clean peice of scrap metal with a coat of your black paint. Wait a day in room temperature between the two paints. If it's colder than room temp wait double. See then if it works for you prior to doing the whole frame.
I don't know how strong the header paint is but I'm thinking it will protect things more than without because I find matte rattle to be really weak for scratches vs the shinier versions.
The vht will add some gloss but it's more of a powdery type paint and will dry to be more dull. Just do thin coats cause it can run super easy.
Just reading up on the vht paint and it says it needs to be cured. I can throw the smaller parts in the oven but not sure about the frame.
A few days in the hot Sydney sun might do I hope?
The VHT header stuff is pretty delicate until it cures. I've used a heat gun to help cure exhaust before installing, which worked quite well. It takes a couple beers time but would be worth it, imo.
Right I forgot about the curing. Yup to above and a day in sun with his weather would help too. I remember reading sun will cure it to some degree. The heat gun could bubble the underlying paint if you're not careful.
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