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try replacing the fuses. Ive seen on elevator controls glass fuses that test good. and will open after a few minutes warming up and it warps the filament enough to break contact. then once cooled down the will read good again. frustrating to find.
try replacing the fuses. Ive seen on elevator controls glass fuses that test good. and will open after a few minutes warming up and it warps the filament enough to break contact. then once cooled down the will read good again. frustrating to find.
yeah, always air in the fuel line. I mean it fills my bowls... is that a bad thing with the way these carbs are fed? Is that a symptom of something? if so what? And is there a remedy?
fuel heating up in the lines wouldnt surprise me one bit. Been more than a few years ago. When I added high pipes. I had the transparent lines. I literally sat and watched bubbles form (boiling fuel) inside the lines at idle. and my bike would run out of gas. Wait a few minutes, bowls would re-fill and take off riding for another 2 miles. then die again.
I switched out to thick heavy duty fuel line from Do it best. and added heat shield socks. Shortened up the lines as much as I could. Problem solved. Also, in my case w the 69 CL350 tank, I raised tank maybe an inch and added heat shield twixed it and the engine.
Ive read some fuels can boil as little as 90 degrees. I dont know exactly what the boiling point of 87-90 octane pump gas.
But the problem was solved after I did all that.
Haha. Not looking for an argument. I just know when you blow in one side, the other side flows. You can open the petcock and neither flow. I may be confused by it being vacuum actuated.
When vacuum is applied by means of engine operation it creates low pressure situation in the carbs, thus (siphoning) pulling fuel through jets. Allowing more fuel to gravity fill bowl. On the back end (tank side) the lowering fuel level then draws a negative vacuum pressure being constantly relieved through the cap vent. thus if the vent is clogged...blh blah blah etc etc so on and so forth.
When vacuum is applied by means of engine operation it creates low pressure situation in the carbs, thus (siphoning) pulling fuel through jets. Allowing more fuel to gravity fill bowl. On the back end (tank side) the lowering fuel level then draws a negative vacuum pressure being constantly relieved through the cap vent. thus if the vent is clogged...blh blah blah etc etc so on and so forth.
I know what the definition is, homeboy. I Googled it to. Think for a second why your fuel boiling stopped gas flow. Look at the fuel lines in Nate's picture. There's 3 inches of air at the top of the lines. I have 5 motorcycles in my garage that are gravity fed, and all of them have fuel from petcock to carb in the line. Clearly, positive pressure stops flow. It may not be his issue, but it's worth a look. And it's way easier than chasing ghosts in the electrical system.
and to be perfectly honest. I dont know if the air rushing through the carb is LOW or HIGH pressure. But, not too worried about it as long as nobody catches the error.
so when I put my carbs on the bike with empty bowls and turn on my petcock (Stock 360 Petcock, replaced with new when rebuilding the bike.) the fuel flows just fine until the bowls are full then the valve in the carb shuts off fuel. Which would be before the fuel lines would have been able to fill completely... so based on that I wouldn't think that I'd be in a situation where when my carbs burn enough fuel for the float to drop and open the valve again and the fuel not be able to resume flowing. I could be wrong... should I trim my lines back as short as I can?
I don't think so. If it's flowing, you're good. There were times on mine where fuel would quit flowing and when I blew into the petcock, it would flow again. I have no scientific explanation why it would happen. My XL doesn't like a fuel filter. Run it a bit and fuel quits flowing through the filter. Flip the filter and run the same distance and it quits flowing again. No idea why that happens either. I know these petcocks have a tank filter. What Eric is suggesting seems like the place I would start.
Grabbing some regular thick black fuel hose is easy enough, I can do that on my way home from work.... And interestingly enough I do have some of that heat shield, I used it on my old Yamaha build, and have a good stretch more of it, At least enough to cover the sections closest to the head
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