CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie (Weenie) 2.0 -

[trek97]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

A small amount of liquid fuel will flow past the bubbles. However, in my instance it was not enough to keep up w consumption. and w your finding it runs 1 to 2 minutes. Thats about the same amount of time to run out of gas. Say if you forget to turn the petcock on entirely. So yes concentrate on that for the time being.

 

[trek97]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

Dont know how Eric caught that. I had to zoom in as much as "command +" would allow to see that. HA its hell getting old.
LOL thats funny cause Eric and I are the same age. Its just he has "Super Eye Balls" and mine are just crap.

 

[trek97]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

Also, thinking back. On my first pair of carbs i sent PJ. He found that one of my float valve "needles" (aftermarket rebuild kit). Had some small burrs. that caused it to hang up every now and again, impeding flow. Enough that it would stick it open OR closed. I would have to tap on carb to get it to close because of overflow. Then sometimes it wouldnt open or get caught up halfway between. But I never found it to stick when setting float levels cause the rocking motion was more than simply it working on its own.

Just info to add.

 

[3DogNate]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

Also, thinking back. On my first pair of carbs i sent PJ. He found that one of my float valve "needles" (aftermarket rebuild kit). Had some small burrs. that caused it to hang up every now and again, impeding flow. Enough that it would stick it open OR closed. I would have to tap on carb to get it to close because of overflow. Then sometimes it wouldnt open or get caught up halfway between. But I never found it to stick when setting float levels cause the rocking motion was more than simply it working on its own.

Just info to add.

I can drain these carbs, plug 'em back up and turn on the petcock and it'll fill up every time and shut off when the float hits top. I don't expect that I have a problem like that. but I'll give them a look when I swap out the pilot jets after work.

 

[jpmobius]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

Just take a Q-tip with some rubbing compound and polish the female part of the needle and seat assembly. It will be fine after that unless there is some actual damage which it sounds like there isn't any. Don't worry about the big air bubble in the lines. It isn't an issue unless the line is empty all the way to the carb. When your bike starts to quit, look down and see the level of fuel in the line is close to normal. Unless it has gotten very close to the carb or empty, fuel delivery is not the problem. Make sure your tank venting is good first though. Try riding it with gas tank cap open or off (probably a good idea to have a mostly empty tank so you don't learn why you should avoid gasoline on the wrong part of your anatomy!).

 

[crazypj]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

360 never had a vacuum tap (although one of mine may get a low profile Suzuki GSX1100 one )
A vacuum tap has a vacuum chamber connected to the intake port. When vacuum is applied (engine running) it moves a piston inside tap to allow fuel to flow..
Usually, vacuum tap has a PRI (priming) position which bypasses the vacuum piston (or just pushes on it to open slightly) Initial start from 'dry' tank make take a lot longer, particularly with multiple float bowls to fill
Suzuki and Yamaha used them in late 70's through 80's (and on some bikes right up until they got fuel injection in late 90's early 2000)

fuel heating up in the lines wouldnt surprise me one bit. Been more than a few years ago. When I added high pipes. I had the transparent lines. I literally sat and watched bubbles form (boiling fuel) inside the lines at idle. and my bike would run out of gas. Wait a few minutes, bowls would re-fill and take off riding for another 2 miles. then die again.

I switched out to thick heavy duty fuel line from Do it best. and added heat shield socks. Shortened up the lines as much as I could. Problem solved. Also, in my case w the 69 CL350 tank, I raised tank maybe an inch and added heat shield twixed it and the engine.

Ive read some fuels can boil as little as 90 degrees. I dont know exactly what the boiling point of 87-90 octane pump gas.
But the problem was solved after I did all that.

I'm aware of fuel lines boiling but to be honest hadn't thought of protective heat barriers. I have some really nifty high temp fibreglass/silicon wiring cover I got for the T305 wiring (it's 'beige'
I think I'll try it on fuel lines 8) (pun intended ;D )

 

[Bagmup]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

If you have a single nipple petcock that you T off, then you don't have a stock Keihin petcock.

Never said I had a single outlet...one outlet is blocked off..

 

[irk miller]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

Never said I had a single outlet...one outlet is blocked off..

Okay. Why would you block on outlet off?

 

[trek97]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

Okay. Why would you block on outlet off?

you just had to ask.

 

[3DogNate]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

dug out the original pilots (The side holes were indeed bigger on the stock.) Swapped fuel lines.

Fuckin' bike still doesn't run well... I'm going to stop until I get my replacement part for my Pamco ignition. There's just no way my carbs are that whack... I rebuilt a set of CV carbs for my XS and had no issues there... Admittedly I might just not be getting my ignition quite right, this is my first and only points ignition, But I've reviewed the YouTube videos and manual and followed typical procedure. the bike should run and run well... but does not.

 

[irk miller]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

you just had to ask.

I did. Honest question. If it's a fix for something, I really want to know. Maybe we should try it too.

I agree, Nate. You shouldn't be having this much trouble. I assume coils test out fine?

 

[3DogNate]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

I assume coils test out fine?

Yes... I'm using the 4ohm universals from Mike's XS. But you just gave me a thought.... I might have my primary/secondary coil wires swapped. Mike's says it's polarity doesn't matter but other sites that sell that coil mark the primary as yellow and secondary as Black. and I have them currently backward from that. Worth checking and will only take a sec. Would certainly explain weak spark if it does matter.

 

[3DogNate]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

yeah that did nothing new.

 

[trek97]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

here this should help a lot...
Please Jesus fix Nates 360. Please oh please oh please fix that friggen 360.

...

...

wait for it...

...

did that help?

 

[trek97]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

Easiest and quickest way Ive found to adjust static timing.
1. set the gap on left point to open spec distance. I start at either .12 or .14. I think specs say 12-16.

2. next, use your light or I prefer to use meter. Rotate plate til Left opens on LF exactly. snug plate down & rotate engine counterclockwise

3. Then without using your feeler gauge. Simply, tweak right point gap until it opens exactly on L, it should "automatically" fall within .12-16 specs.

If right turns out to be more or less than 12-16, start over w step 1. This time set Left to open either .12 OR .16 gap...repeat steps 2 & 3.

If you adjust Left throughout the .12 -.16 range, opening exactly on LF and find you just cant get Right within spec opening on L, replace worn points.

If points are set less than .12 they will remain closed to long allowing the coil to heat up and fry. (not enough cool down time between charging cycles)

If open beyond .16 the coils will have less time to charge = weak spark.

Step 4, start bike put your strobe on it and adjust plate for proper operation. Recheck gaps. done.

 

[3DogNate]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

Easiest and quickest way Ive found to adjust static timing.
1. set the gap on left point to open spec distance. I start at either .12 or .14. I think specs say 12-16.

2. next, use your light or I prefer to use meter. Rotate plate til Left opens on LF exactly. snug plate down & rotate engine counterclockwise

3. Then without using your feeler gauge. Simply, tweak right point gap until it opens exactly on L, it should "automatically" fall within .12-16 specs.

If right turns out to be more or less than 12-16, start over w step 1. This time set Left to open either .12 OR .16 gap...repeat steps 2 & 3.

If you adjust Left throughout the .12 -.16 range, opening exactly on LF and find you just cant get Right within spec opening on L, replace worn points.

If points are set less than .12 they will remain closed to long allowing the coil to heat up and fry. (not enough cool down time between charging cycles)

If open beyond .16 the coils will have less time to charge = weak spark.

Step 4, start bike put your strobe on it and adjust plate for proper operation. Recheck gaps. done.

Well Eric, your "Points for Big Dummies" bullet list seemed to do the trick for me... along with discovering my right coil is not happy....

I didn't touch the carbs tonight and set the points / timing... discovered that the points plate that I had on there would not time out perfect with the right gap... Being a CB360 pack rat I grabbed my other points plate I have and was able to dial it in statically.... Stuck the timing light on it and started it up... didn't sound great but the left timing was spot on. The light wouldn't fire on the right.... swapped coil out fired it and man! it ran awesome... I got the idle set and verified the right cylinder timing with the light and static timing was spot on that side too. and as you can see in the video it actually seems happy...

 

[irk miller]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

Hell yeah, man. That rocks.

 

[trek97]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

All in the power of prayer bro! Jesus rocks! ;D

 

[trek97]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

Now Jesus is telling me, you need to let her idle till shes "operating temp"...like 10 minutes or more. Get that A/F mix dialed in.
Dont forget to always have her upright on the center stand or in a chock when making carb adjustment.
Never ever on the side stand. I shove a 2x4 up under the front tire also. Just to get her level as possible.
If you make adj on the sidestand it will be rich as soon as you climb on and stand her upright for riding.
Im not talking crazy rich. But little things can add up.

 

[3DogNate]

Re: CB360 (378cc) Green Meanie 2.0 -

Now Jesus is telling me, you need to let her idle till shes "operating temp"...like 10 minutes or more. Get that A/F mix dialed in.
Dont forget to always have her upright on the center stand or in a chock when making carb adjustment.
Never ever on the side stand. I shove a 2x4 up under the front tire also. Just to get her level as possible.
If you make adj on the sidestand it will be rich as soon as you climb on and stand her upright for riding.
Im not talking crazy rich. But little things can add up.

Sounds like a plan. Hopefully I'll have time after work tomorrow to do just that. I've still got lots to do before she's a rider again. Wiring needs a good going over, It wasn't nearly as clean as I'd like it to be... too many long runs and too much "extra" wadded up in the bucket. I need to mill down my front brake pads a wee... they are just a bit too draggy on the rotor, and button up my rear brake linkage.