CB360 - working on it on the weekends

Posting from the shop, took it out for a quick run and, funny story, my points cover fell off while I was riding, so I pulled over and ran back to find it. Couldn't find the screws so I rode back with the cover in my pocket, but I have deduced that I am not crazy and that indeed my bike is not running too well. Got some new screws, popped the cover back in, pulled the plugs and they looked like this

dGw1ORm.jpg


Looks okay at idle and low end, but it leans out a lot mid and high range. I have the stock Keihins on my bike, my mechanic suggested moving the needle on its clip to raise it to allow more gas, or do I just need to rejet to a bigger size? Crazypj drilled my stock secondary mains to 115, I'm thinking I may need to go to 120
 
360 needles are fixed (no clip). flat washers can be used to shim em. how far was your ride?
 
Take a pic of the plugs looking down into the inside. You can't really "read" a plug from that angle.
 
trek97 said:
360 needles are fixed (no clip). flat washers can be used to shim em. how far was your ride?
Click to expand...

Yeah I figured that out after reading up a bit, I know it's hard to tell from the picture but the plugs are pretty lean, not just like "oh it's a bit lean". I think I'll pick up 120 and 122.5 secondary mains, then get back in the shop and play with the washers and mains and see if I can work it out. Ride was about 11 miles out which is when my points cover fell off, then 11 miles back which is when I started focusing on the running issues more. I'll post a video of my bike idling when I first started her up today after I eat dinner, I haven't had anything since breakfast :'(
 
Mechanic doesn't know squat about 360 carbs, DON'T SHIM NEEDLES
Bigger secondary mains only, they will richen up mid range transition
Is there anything inside the mufflers?
Did you check there are no air leaks at manifolds?
Brendon is running 125 secondary mains, may need to go to 127.5 (378cc motor)
Hers a picture of his exhaust system (2:1) and new fork brace/front mudguard
 
After thinking about it, I think I'll start with 122.5 and 125 secondary mains and go from there.

Also, here's a super short video of my bike idling/warming up, is the choking sound just because the carbs are unsynced? That same sound happens after warmed up occasionally, at stop lights with the clutch pulled in, etc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzjAFJbOGFM

I don't think there's anything inside the mufflers, but I never thought about that, I'll check. I think the intake manifolds are in pretty good condition but I'll also check that out
 
edukaycheon said:
After thinking about it, I think I'll start with 122.5 and 125 secondary mains and go from there.
Click to expand...

Good vid, but thats a pretty big jump on jets. The stumble could be electrical. Weak coils or power to feed coils. Maybe one or both carbs is loading up a bit. Did you adjust your air/fuel mix needles for max rpm on each cylinder? Then re-adjust idle back to 1200?
 
I read somewhere that if you see white residue on the coils it could mean theyre weak? I may have something like that, but for some reason I dont think it's the coils. I havent opened up the carbs since I got her running, ao I have some fun with carbs to look forward to either way.

P.S. when I was getting the blinkers wired in the headlight bucket I noticed a small slot for a key on the triple triangle, turns out it's a fork lock??? I had no idea these bikes had one, assuming my key is the original is there any reason it wouldn't work?
 
Fork lock used a different key, something 'Made in Germany' rather than the Honda ignition key.
Carbs were synced when you got them back but it was done on my 378cc motor.
You'll need to mess with the fuel screws a bit, start at 3/4 turn out and go quarter turn at a time for best idle/pick up
Shouldn't ever need more than 2 turns out fron seated.
Make sure you don't screw them down too tight to seat them
The manifolds distort where they bolt onto head, I think Trek posted pics of his?
 
Thanks PJ, I'll fiddle around with the fuel screws next time in the shop. I think I'll give my locksmith a call and see if he can help me with the fork lock, because I wouldn't mind having some theft prevention on the bike, even if it's old and less of a potential target. I don't really understand the picture with the manifold, what does the circled "daylight" part show?

Also, looking to order some secondary main jets while I'm at school for the week, along with some spark plugs probably to save a bit of money. Read a few other threads but I'm confused with the difference between the numbers, like how the manual says I need #68 for a secondary main jet, how does that translate into sizes like 120, 122.5? Anyone have any good experiences with a particular site they'd like to recommend? My local Honda dealership has the part number:

JET (#68)
99101-369-0680

but I doubt they have in stock and I'd have to order it either way. The #68 is a 110 size correct? Or am I completely confused?
 
Could it be these?

http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/the-634/KEIHIN-PRESS-FIT-TYPE/Detail

The ones you linked me show up as main air, starter jets on powerbarn. Either way, if I want a 120 size I can just order #120?

edit: This is what I was looking at which has me confused

file.php
 
The press in jets are for CB350 not 360
You have round head screw in jets, they come in coupe of different thread sizes though. I should remember size but can't. I have another set of carbs to do so I'll measure jets when I get them apart
part # 3 is in two pieces, you hve to hold the 8mm emulsion tube and unscrew the jet in the end of it
The chart is also wrong, secondary mains are #98 or #100 not #68
Oh, yes, you just order the numbers you want

just measured the jet, you want these
http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/the-1098/Keihin-99101-dsh-393-dsh-XXX-Main%2C-Air%2C/Detail
 
Looking forward to getting back in the shop, but it looks like there's a chance of rain this week/weekend :-X

So I ordered the jets (120, 122, 125) but they weren't here by the time I went in to the shop, so I decided to check the intake manifolds with carb cleaner. Forgot my key :mad: :mad: :mad: so didn't do much. I did look into the exhausts, nothing clogging them but the baffles. Just curious, not saying I'd do this necessarily, and I know it's different with different exhausts, but how much of a change in volume would I expect with the baffles drilled out? Didn't learn much about the fork lock, I emailed someone (motorcyclekeys@gmail.com or something) who I got my ignition key blanks from and I'm trying to see if I can get the fork lock functional, but didn't realize the lock code is inside so I guess I have to take it apart? He also said if my ignition key is the original it should work with the fork lock but crazypj you said that wouldn't work? I guess it couldn't hurt to try next time I'm in the shop though. Of course since I didn't have the key I didn't do anything with the fuel/air mix either, so my checklist is:

1. Spray carb cleaner and check the intake manifolds
2. Play with the fuel/air mix and idle, see if that does anything
2.5 (I'm going to assume I'll need to change the jets after this anyways, so start with 120 and go from there)
3. Check plugs (which means I have to go buy more plugs, $9 for two adds up!)
4. Most likely, repeat step 2.5
 
Re: fork lock. My cb360 has one. The ignition key works for it. They sell NOS key and lock sets that include 3 sets of locks, ignition switch, seat lock, and fork tumbler.
Not sure why yours was different PJ.



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mydlyfkryzis said:
Re: fork lock. My cb360 has one. The ignition key works for it. They sell NOS key and lock sets that include 3 sets of locks, ignition switch, seat lock, and fork tumbler.
Not sure why yours was different PJ.



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Click to expand...

There was something about sales in Europe so Honda got all the steering locks from Germany for a few years.
I think they kept using them on European models until at least 1979
 
I don't disbelieve you guys, but my bike was bought a year old in 1978. It came with 2 stock keys, both the same.

Honda did like to confuse everyone. Even the 1976 air box and filter is unique for 1976. One little change after another.


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