Down under, an idiot and a 400F

SONICJK said:
Yeah those look bright enough for brake lights 8)

And yeah your blinker seems a little slow...are you using an electronic flasher or a resistance based one?

Electronic. Yeah I thought that too but its designed purely for LED flashers. It is a Chinese eBay one though:

http://bit.ly/Q5CW1n

Maybe I've wired it up incorrectly?
 
Got a drawing of your wiring diagram?
Is it 2 prong or 3?

I cant really see how it could be wired incorrectly to make it flash so slowly...

I would toss an incandescent bulb in place of one of the leds and see what happens (old tail light, or OEM turn signal etc)
 
The ad says "regulates back to 60 to 120 flashes per minute" and you're running at exactly 60 per min so it may just be that flasher.
 
3 prong. I've wired the bike from scratch and only got PowerPoint of diagram.

I just tried something different and it didn't work at all. What should go where:

Power feed
Earth
Output to turn button

B
E
L
 
B is switched battery power
E is earth
L is load, so through your switch to the lamp

So from L there should be a wire going to your turn signal switch which then in turn goes through the switch to the + wire of whichever lamp you have selected

Im 90% certain of course, so I could be wrong, but I dont think i am ???
 
SONICJK said:
B is switched battery power
E is earth
L is load, so through your switch to the lamp

So from L there should be a wire going to your turn signal switch which then in turn goes through the switch to the + wire of whichever lamp you have selected

Im 90% certain of course, so I could be wrong, but I dont think i am ???

That's how I had it wired up so I suspect you're right.
 
Flashing about every second is fine,used to be 60~120 a min, doubt if things gave changed?
 
Finished up in the shed this evening trying to get the indicators in a sensible spot. I've tried a number of different spots and they just didn't look right.

Mounted in the seat hump (which looked too high):

6ypavedy.jpg


Mounted on exhaust hanger brackets I welded on this weekend (which looked too low):

udu5esuj.jpg


So the only place left to really hang them that would look right was in the middle where th frame tube was! So I grabbed some drill bits and went to work. Holes needed were 8mm and I went up in stages, probably not the best solution as it got tougher and tougher to drill (maybe it was work hardening). I didn't realise that this spot also had the plugs in it from where I welded the hoop on, means I've not got access to the inside of the tube though which should limit any potential corrosion issues.

The hole:

FBD9BD51-BB28-4F8B-828A-298C31FAE935-454-0000008BB94112F3_zps4f9dfb29.jpg


Trimmed the seat to accommodate:

7D96D680-2CE1-41A9-AB92-AF14F4EB61B5-454-0000008BBE10E17A_zps394ec614.jpg


Fitted:

2A82B1F9-F436-4503-9077-B33E3112959D-454-0000008BC28F6305_zpsc0031fc4.jpg


Whilst it looks like its a bit far out here I think it will be balanced nicely with the twin pipes I plan on putting on it:

A59C778E-E31D-4CDB-816F-DFE6D403A7D1-454-0000008BC7894D9E_zps9d05b3d4.jpg
 
Thinking about the wattage of my headlight, its a 55w/65w I believe, is this going to be too much for the bike to handle? I would think not given all the lights (rear, rear brake, turns, instruments) have been converted to LED's.
 
Maybe a HID would be the way to go. They are at 35w if I remember right. Looking good mate love the tail light.
 
Went to sleep thinking about the electrical consumption last night, I think I might be all right:

Stock charging system: 147w
Headlight: 65w
Taillight: bugger all, 1w?
Turns: bugger all, 1w?
Coils: 36w
Dash: 5w?
Losses: 2w?

Should leave me a buffer of 30-40w at max revs and probably sufficient at low revs. Am I missing anything?
 
You don't ride around at max rpm all the time so it would probably be better to use 110w as a baseline
It then depends how many a/hr your battery is
 
I will be using a Ballistic 8 Cell Evo2 which puts out 4.6a/hr

Worst case I can pop a 35w bulb in the headlight. Do you think it would be sufficient or should I downgrade the bulb PJ?
 
I'm glad I read about your issue with the seat plugs. To avoid this issue in the future I would use a thick walled tubing for slugs that would give the same benefit but still be able to run wires. Or at least drill an access hole in the slugs.
 
crazypj said:
Should be OK, you can always downgrade if needed later

How do you check? I assume run the bike with the lights etc on and check the voltage at the battery. Looking for something higher than a static reading?
 
Yeah. Or ride it and see what happens. Just have someone on standby to come pick you up If you drain the battery haha
 
Look for the voltage drop when running and see what you get around 2,000~ 2,500rpm, if it 'balances' you'll be fine
 
Again, brilliant thread. Signed up purely to follow this build (and perhaps seek the future wisdom of the D.T.T. denizens in the future). I was really looking forward to the final page when I was back on page 50... Got to 144 today, and still not done! Pull finger, mate! :p

One thing that I was concerned about way back when, was the position of the fuel feed out of the tank being at the front. The point about hills was made affecting the feed, but I was more concerned about the effect under acceleration... on hillclimbs. Do you think the motorcycle will be affected?

EDIT: Also, big congrats on your bub! It's all happening!
 
Back
Top Bottom