Down under, an idiot and a 400F

[neevo]

So I've bought another RFID, assuming I've blown the one here up by pushing voltage back into it.

I have some ideas of how to manage this problem with the new one (eg using a frame earth as opposed to the LED return wire in the RFID, which should stop any excess voltage going back into the RFID. I'm also keen to put a diode on the LED line out too, should I just solder one in or is there a more suitable option, like a LED I can wire in line?

Still no idea how to stop the RFID triggering the relay when I switch the power back on though

 

[ronnie]

I know this may sounds dumb, but is that push button insulated inside that metal housing? If not you could be getting that voltage back through the ground from the switch LED.. Just a thought. And for the relay, what happens when you put the switch on the ground of the unit instead of the + wire? As in the switch would cut the ground as opposed to the power lead.. I know this isn't ideal but maybe worth a shot?

 

[neevo]

Ronnie I'm pretty sure there isn't a problem with the switch grounding on the housing, I think the problem there was the fact I wired a second 12v feed onto the RFID led wire. I'm going to remove that altogether for the new RFID to save blowing another one up.

With the power switch, do you think switching the negative would do anything? I thought about it but didn't think it would make a difference.

The switch is also connected to the relay so I might check if switching only the RFID makes a difference too.

 

[ronnie]

Oh alright well that's good then..

Well it's always worth a try.. But if you are just trying to stop a parasitic drain of the battery you really just need a switch on the battery. So the switch shouldn't be after the relay it should be before. The switch should be the first thing the positive lead of the battery should hit that way you know everything is off. Not sure if that was the issue but that's how I do it on everything from simple DC chest radio to a batteries on a boat.

And if somehow its not the switch but the RFID unit itself that turns on when it initially gets power(think a car radio how it turns on when you hook a battery to it) then you shouldn't worry too much about it since this switch will be for storage purposes only and once you turn it on and go through the regular RFID motions it will be normal after that. Does that make any sense? I'm just looking at it from a logical point of view because I frankly have no idea of how the RFID works since I dont have one yet..

 

[neevo]

Ronnie the RFID is basically a receiver for a wireless key fob, you swipe the fob and the RFID triggers a relay by sending a small low voltage pulse.

The problem I have is that turning the RFID back on with a switch seems to also send a pulse to the relay (as I assume the circuits are not very well insulated from each other) causing it to activate the relay.

A sophisticated wireless ignition with unique key fobs, foiled by flicking a switch

 

[ronnie]

Well if that is the case, when you flip the switch on you can start the bike without using the fob? Am I getting this right? And if so, does turning the engine off and swiping the fob turn the RFID off/shut current to the relay and now you can't start the engine?

If all of that is true, i would say if the problem can't be fixed I would just leave it. I mean you're only turning the bike off completely for storage so any other time the switch is on the RFID works properly, its just that first one time. Could just be how the RFID unit is set up...:/

 

[neevo]

Yeah you've got it Ronnie. I may take the switch out as if someone found it they could get the bike live by flicking it.

Worst case when I park the bike up for storage I can remove the RFID fuse. That way there is no switch to muck around with the relay/ignition.

 

[ronnie]

There you go! Yea I would rather go through the hassle of taking the fuse out after the season is over than having someone flick that switch and realize it's capable of starting! Cool man, roll with it!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[neevo]

You've sold me Ronnie.

 

[neevo]

Exciting day in the house today as mr postman delivered a much anticipated piece of the puzzle:

A big thanks to the chaps at Realm and Beachcomber, truly wonderful gents and deliver a superb product. It took a little while (3-4 weeks, but quality is worth waiting for), turns out the horrible weather in the UK took Realms roof off their factory

I was initially looking at a Hagon shock but went with this for a few reasons:

1. The shock body is alloy vs steel
2. Adjustable damping control
3. Fantastic customer service
4. Fully custom length and spring rate

In the end I'm not disappointed and cannot wait to get it mounted.

Edit: PHATNESS!!!

Still need to work out if that 10mm or so extra length is going to be a problem when I weld the mounts to the front of the brace. I'm pretty confident though about 10-20mm worth of preload will have it all spot on

 

[neevo]

Turns out my top shock mount (originally made for a Hagon shock) is too wide. 2 solutions:

1. Make some spacers to take up the difference
2. Cut and reweld the mount

My preference is #1 as its simpler and can be adjusted if required when the frame is painted.

 

[beachcomber]

Exciting day in the house today as mr postman delivered a much anticipated piece of the puzzle:

A big thanks to the chaps at Realm and Beachcomber, truly wonderful gents and deliver a superb product. It took a little while (3-4 weeks, but quality is worth waiting for), turns out the horrible weather in the UK took Realms roof off their factory

I was initially looking at a Hagon shock but went with this for a few reasons:

1. The shock body is alloy vs steel
2. Adjustable damping control
3. Fantastic customer service
4. Fully custom length and spring rate

In the end I'm not disappointed and cannot wait to get it mounted.

Edit: PHATNESS!!!

Still need to work out if that 10mm or so extra length is going to be a problem when I weld the mounts to the front of the brace. I'm pretty confident though about 10-20mm worth of preload will have it all spot on

Hi Neevo,

glad the shocker arrived OK and that you are pleased with it. We are finding quite a lot of favour at the moment with folk needing non-standard units such as yours, as we are quite happy to listen to what the customer wants - then make it!

The factory STILL has part of the roof missing ! The old roof panels were corrugated asbestos [ post war build ] and you can imagine the fuss that has caused with the workmen !

Here's the laugh - they wear suits and masks while climbing around on the roof and removing the panels, climb down again and remove all the protective clothing - while the digger moves the asbestos into a skip - right next to their tea break area !!

I should point out that deliveries via our North American [ US and Canada ] outlets is currently around 2 weeks.

Normal service Worldwide will be resumed in about 2 weeks - we have been promised a watertight non-asbestos roof by then !

Neevo, please keep us [ Realm ] info'd on your findings - and of course any queries don't hesitate to contact me.

 

[neevo]

Neevo, please keep us [ Realm ] info'd on your findings - and of course any queries don't hesitate to contact me.

No problemo, you've all been brilliant especially looking at my build and making an estimate at the spring rate too. Greatly appreciated.

I'm not envisioning any issues with the install, looks like 20mm preload will have it sitting perfectly, if I have any questions on the spring rate I will let you know, would prefer a Realm spring on the thing as I know you guys install quality metal.

I had built the top mount on the bike with 40mm spacing based on the Hagon measurements. I was going to have Alu spacers made for the gap, would that work ok? Do I need anything else up the top, should I have the spacers made in any special way or simply a barrel in each side to take up the gap!

 

[stroker crazy]

Aha! looks great neevo!

Just had a flash - maybe RAM can help me with an extremely non-standard shock for an upcoming project of mine.

Crazy

 

[maduncle]

Hey that shock looks great - I will be bookmarking REALM as I will also need a custom made mono-shock for the upcoming WF450 project.

 

[neevo]

Aha! looks great neevo!

Just had a flash - maybe RAM can help me with an extremely non-standard shock for an upcoming project of mine.

Crazy

Hey that shock looks great - I will be bookmarking REALM as I will also need a custom made mono-shock for the upcoming WF450 project.

I can highly recommend them! Not only are they extremely passionate about what they do, their product is amazing but I reckon it cost me the same to have a customised shock vs buying a stock Hagon item off the shelf.

 

[crazypj]

Yeah you've got it Ronnie. I may take the switch out as if someone found it they could get the bike live by flicking it.

Worst case when I park the bike up for storage I can remove the RFID fuse. That way there is no switch to muck around with the relay/ignition.

Would a small capacitor prevent the voltage spike or does the RFID automatically re-set when powered on?

 

[beachcomber]

No problemo, you've all been brilliant especially looking at my build and making an estimate at the spring rate too. Greatly appreciated.

I'm not envisioning any issues with the install, looks like 20mm preload will have it sitting perfectly, if I have any questions on the spring rate I will let you know, would prefer a Realm spring on the thing as I know you guys install quality metal.

I had built the top mount on the bike with 40mm spacing based on the Hagon measurements. I was going to have Alu spacers made for the gap, would that work ok? Do I need anything else up the top, should I have the spacers made in any special way or simply a barrel in each side to take up the gap!

Alloy will work fine for the spacers - precisely what we did with the TR1 units - if I had a choice and it were my bike - I'd use stainless.

 

[neevo]

Would a small capacitor prevent the voltage spike or does the RFID automatically re-set when powered on?

I doubt it, it seems to auto reset when you turn it on. I'm thinking of removing the switch altogether. Someone else is running the same RFID with minimal current draw issues as the drain is so low. RFID seems to draw less power than the clock on an Acewell gauge so I'm reasonably safe there I think.

 

[neevo]

Alloy will work fine for the spacers - precisely what we did with the TR1 units - if I had a choice and it were my bike - I'd use stainless.

Are they pressed in at all or just sit up against the rubber and collar in the shock mount?