Honda cb350 cafe racer project from the UK

J-Rod10 said:
Not without the rearsets, I can't.

I have people constantly asking for the various pivots I make for various bikes to lace up to $75 eBay rear sets from Vietnam. It wouldn't be right on my end to tell them no, and you, or anyone else yes.

Nothing personal, they're a package deal. That is why my sets for that bike are the best on the market. They work, straight out of the box.
No proba mate. Totally understand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OK, so finally got the rear brake linkage sorted. Had an arm fabricated onto the original rear brake mechanism.
Also fitted some stainless steel brackets to raise the rear sets for clearance on the exhaust.
 

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getting it mounted.
 

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few more.
 

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Clarence seems OK.
 

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Seems like I'm on the home stretch now.
 

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Andy,

I'd get a new spell checker unless you mean that Clarence is really OK and then we would want to know who the heck Clarence is. :)

On a more serious note, the work you are doing there is really nice, but you may want to lower those pegs unless you have very short legs. If the pegs are too high, the knees are bent at an acute angle and that tends to cut of circulation pretty quickly. A "normal" height is roughly level with teh swingarm plus or minus an inch.

Yours may be high to create enough clearance to the pipes which is part of the compromise that's often needed with rear sets. That's why rear sets are often mounted very wide or a better solution is to bend the levers - but I think yours may be cast and if they are, bending would probably crack them.

We came up with a similar linkage to your on our CB160 race bikes and in a later iteration, we changed to a cable set up which was a much better arrangement and worth considering.

Keep calm and carry on.
 
The brake side works? The angles look awkward.

I'm all for symmetry, but you might consider flipping the brake side over so the rod is below the pegs and is pulling vs. pushing.
 
Also expect the cast aluminum shifter mount to snap at some point. I ended up taking an original steel shifter lever, cutting it down and drilling it for a 6mm bolt to attach the linkage to. Much stronger than the cast aluminum part and I also made it a bit longer to improve the leverage applied to my stubborn XS650 transmission. Travel is increased a bit of course but not a big deal.
 
teazer said:
Andy,

I'd get a new spell checker unless you mean that Clarence is really OK and then we would want to know who the heck Clarence is. :)

On a more serious note, the work you are doing there is really nice, but you may want to lower those pegs unless you have very short legs. If the pegs are too high, the knees are bent at an acute angle and that tends to cut of circulation pretty quickly. A "normal" height is roughly level with teh swingarm plus or minus an inch.

Yours may be high to create enough clearance to the pipes which is part of the compromise that's often needed with rear sets. That's why rear sets are often mounted very wide or a better solution is to bend the levers - but I think yours may be cast and if they are, bending would probably crack them.

We came up with a similar linkage to your on our CB160 race bikes and in a later iteration, we changed to a cable set up which was a much better arrangement and worth considering.

Keep calm and carry on.
Those levers have a smidgen of offset cast in to them. But, where they are, is where they stay.
 
teazer said:
Andy,

I'd get a new spell checker unless you mean that Clarence is really OK and then we would want to know who the heck Clarence is. :)

Probs the less you know about Clarence the better, other than that he is ok.
 
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