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Hey Liam,
The shop said they hadn't had a proper look at it, so apart from the CDI, the rest is a mystery. It was running before that and has only been sitting for 2 years, so I'm hoping it will turn ok. It actually got delivered today and I'm still trying to figure out if they gave me the wrong key or not - I can't get it to go in, let's hope that's not a sign of things to come...
I won't really have time to have a good look at it until the weekend, but I'm pretty pysched. I'll keep you guys posted on any progress (hopefully there will be some) and jump starting it sounds like a great idea, though I was thinking perhaps it would be better to make sure the engine turns first? I was worried I might damage things more if not?
Thanks for the encouragement.
First thing to do would be shift through the gears up to top (6th?) and try to push the bike forward. If the motor is locked the bike will (obviously) drag the rear tyre. If it's not seized it should turn over (a little bit anyway). DONT force it if it's locked (could be a stuck open valve and you will do more damage trying to force it).
If that checks out, then time to hook up some power and test for spark. Take out the spark plug, put the lead back on, rest the plug body on the fins of the head (so you can see the electrode) and hit the starter. Got spark?.....
If that's all good then hook up some fresh fuel and try to start it. This may or may not work depending on how messed up the carb is, but it's worth a try straight up. More than likely you will need to strip the carb and clean it out though (brake cleaner and compressed air is the best for carb cleaning). You'll need to drain the fuel tank too (stale fuel doesn't work).
And here's an inspirational low budget build for you too:
Thanks for advice hillsy, rushing home to do as you've said.
Yeh I saw that bike before while I was looking to buy - I've already gone past what he spent but...how do people manage to get things for free in this Fay and age?
But yeh, very cool, and makes me think I could do something similar without spending too much more. I guess for a first bike I should probably focus on getting it up and running before anything else - I don't wanna put it off too long and forget how to ride...
Thanks heaps.
So, looks like the motor is ok, but the power is not...at least I have a place to start then.
Just wondering but, has anyone had a bike where the neutral gear is all the way down and not half a click up? This seems strange to me, but I learnt on a CB250...
There should be a mark on the front sprocket cover that shows how the gears go (unsually 1-N-2-3-4-5).
It should be this pattern - I don't know of a "modern" Jap bike that has any other pattern. Maybe it's just stuck from sitting (try rolling the bike in neutral and pressing down on the lever while it's rolling).
Yeh I was thinking the same thing. It only had four gears above. I'll check the sprocket tonight. Hopefully it's not stuck - I've already tried rolling it in neutral and it doesn't seem to want to go lower than neutral.
Hi Sham,
The adjustment on the gear chaner may be wound out a little bit too much as well not allowing the selector to move far enough around to select first. Try winding it in a bit and trying again, I found that on my current bike (SV650) I had this problem when I wound it into a position I thought was most comfortable (all the way out).
So it probably was just stuck after all...I tried again today and it got into first ok, though its still not very consistent...
Anyways, I had a better look around with a torch tonight and I found this - which might explain why there's no power - at first I thought it was where the battery should be connected to, but after look at the z250 twin manual (wrong one, but still better than nothing) it seems a bit small...
Would anyone know what this is? It was kinda just flopping around under the tank.
I might post up on the 1800 section too, but yeh, at least I have a lead now =] very excited.
Haha yes...1 down, so many more to go.
I started a new build thread as i thought I was hijacking this one a bit too much.
Definitely a big thanks to you guys here so far, I've just been doing as instructed =]
Here's the link: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=28104.0
Hey fellas, just joined DTT the other day finally, currently scrambling my '82 Zuk GS450.
I'm up in Brissie, and probably about 5 min's from Hillsy, although we haven't met at this point.
I'm somewhere around 75 - 80% done with the 450, currently sorting out a dead ignitor and just got it back from Tranzac a few weeks ago after getting the pipes made up.
Looking good so far, loving those pipes. I am up in Gladstone, got a GSX 250 I am slowly trying to get up. Got 2 SV's at the moment a 2005 1000 naked and a 2003 Silver 650 that is about to go up for sale. The missus reckons 3 bikes is too much in one shed!
Cheers Rob! Planning on firing it up for the first time with the pipes on tomorrow, keen to see what she sounds like now!
Are you a member over on the GS Resources at all? There's a couple of guys with GSX250's just south of the border that are having fun with theirs, don't think they're on here though unfortunately.
Mate I wish I had your problem, this is my only bike and it's been off the road for far too many years... I need to ride!
Hey Pete, those pipes look cool. What's wrong with your ignitor? I'm missing one and have put together one from a jaycar kit. No sure if it will work but can let you know if that's kinda what you're after.
Hiya Sham, the ignitor carked it at some point in the last 9.5 years while it's been off the road.
When I did the harness cleanup and got it back on, all the ignitor tests failed but the coil and signal generator tests were ok, so one dead ignitor. It's a become a bit of a common issue with these particular ignitors unfortunately.
I had a look at the Jaycar one and I believe it does electronic advance, whereas the GS has mechanical advance.
If it's for your KZ, then there's a guy on the KZ forums who got GM style HEI modules to work on his 550, and has done the same for others. I'm using his theory for my GS.
All I know at the moment is it idles with my setup on it, but I screwed up the first start by having rags over the carb intakes that were too restrictive, so I'm hoping for proper testing today now I've got the pipe and K&N's on.
Ah ok. You obviously know a lot more about it than I do already I didn't quiet understand what the Jaycar warning was about in relation to my bike, all I know is it says this:
"This CDI module is not intended for use as a replacement for CDI units that generate their own high voltage from an inverter requiring a 12V battery supply."
I'm not quiet sure what advance the KZ is, but i'll have a look at your link.
Did you manage to get it running ok today?
Actually, I just checked and it seems they have a few different options. The one I was thinking was the programmable one for about $100 and that's definitely no good, but their CDI one might be ok, not real familiar with the KZ ignition.
When you take your timing cover off, if you can give the rotor on the end of the crankshaft a twist and it springs back, you have mechanical advance, or at least that's how it goes on the GS.
Not so good yesterday unfortunately, timing seems to be 180 degrees out and backfiring, but a mate did some signal generator plate modifications so I need to try again when I can get some time.
Anyways, I had a better look around with a torch tonight and I found this - which might explain why there's no power - at first I thought it was where the battery should be connected to, but after look at the z250 twin manual (wrong one, but still better than nothing) it seems a bit small...
Hi Sham. didn't check 1800, but that looks like the ignition switch connector. Does the bike have the keyed ignition switch? Follow the wires and see where they go. I'm guessing they don't connect to anything, or someone has jumped them at some point. (The bikes' not hot is it )
When you take your timing cover off, if you can give the rotor on the end of the crankshaft a twist and it springs back, you have mechanical advance, or at least that's how it goes on the GS.
Yeh that's the one I have. Thought it was worth a shot costing only $20 bucks.
I think I did what you said, so it looks like I have a mechanical advance, which seems like a good thing if I now understand the warning to be unsuitable for electric advances. Now all I need to test this is a new battery...
Ian, someone did manage to put up a german wiring diagram for me on 1800 and it was the CDI. Its a bit annoying but I did misread the information from the dealership which did say it was missing and not just faulty. Oh well. Haha the only positive is that it can't be hot if I got it from there right?
Onto other news, a prospective parts bike or daily ride just jumped from 800 to 1050 on ebay
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