lil beast soon to be cb175

i have not done a valve job but i have seen lots of before during and after. it seems to me those valves look terrible. i would suggest at least lapping them yourself to get a better seal.
i think there is a how to in the 1800 cafe hep section.
also the cam chain tensioner looks a little chewed. if it hasn't been replaced might as well do it while you are in there, cheap insurance against saving that sweet hone and ring job.
lookin good and keep it steady
rz
 
it's been a while like usual. so since the earth quake we had here looks like some things fell over. waited for parts things came in and now i'm waiting for more parts. I have installed the new rings (haven't honed motor yet, need to meet up with josh my schedule is jacked up), after opening the head i decided the valves did need a job done so i'm sending those into a shop tomorrow since i don't have the tools. i will post video of my little no money spent valve spring compressor. here are pics of the damage, new parts and what i have done in the last few days.

DSCN1572.jpg


DSCN1571.jpg
new covers for the heads since i had the one side crack
and new throttle waiting on switches to come for the bars.

DSCN1582-1.jpg

really rough cuts for license bracket and fender (maybe)

DSCN1576.jpg

rockers are there...
DSCN1579.jpg

rockers not there
 
video tomorrow after i figure out whats wrong with my computer. i'm waiting on switches for the lights which i have some questions on since wiring isn't my strong point.
 
nice. good to see progress. anytime you want help or whatever just give me a ring. def want to try out that hone. what are your plans for fender? i was thinking of trying to hammer one out of aluminum
 
Heeters.com is a shop i came across searching for switches. i have talked to them and they seem cool and hopefully things can go through.
i have LED flashers that i plan to use for the rear and brake. (haven't gotten a brake light yet)
here are some of the parts that i'm wondering about

http://heeters.com/temp.shtml#LEDbulb

LED Load Equalizer

Description:
This 12 volt Dual-Load Equalizer is designed to fix the problem when you have changed your stock directionals to L.E.D. turn signals and they flash quickly or not at all
NOTE: The security key light will still be lit on late model Harley-Davidsons equipped with the factory security system even with this Dual-Load Equalizer installed. However, the security system is still fully functional and cannot be damaged in any way
Dependable Solid-state electronic components
Weather Proof - potted with soft cell technology to prevent wire chaffing and damage
Dimensions: 2 1/4” x 1 5/8” x 5/8”
It is recommended that the module be mounted in a location not subject to extreme heat conditions. Secure to flat surface with double sided VHB tape.
Price (#SD-01008)-----$19.95

i'm assuming that i do need the equalizer or some type of hyper flasher control for the led switch. could any one shed some light for what it takes to convert to LED lights for our little bikes.

thanks guys
 
dcmspikes said:
nice. good to see progress. anytime you want help or whatever just give me a ring. def want to try out that hone. what are your plans for fender? i was thinking of trying to hammer one out of aluminum
Click to expand...

i'm not sure what i'm doing for the fender really. the material i have is weak and i think it will vibrate with out any support from the side rails. (saying it is only mounted to the swing arm) right now i think this is last on the list not much rain in our area so i have some time to come with ideas
 
i have two load equalizers. i also have a small-ish taillight. you can pretty much have them. not sure if the brake light is LED. i think the load equalizer basically makes the LED system use as much energy as the original lights so there is enough current to make the flasher work. i could be wrong. should be able to find a flasher that will work on much less current.
 
I had the same problem and just ordered this:

http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/product/LOCKHART-PHILLIPS-LED-FLASHER-RELAY-UNIVERSAL/?psreferrer=http%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252Fsearch%253Fhl%257Cequalto%257Cen%257Camp%257Cclient%257Cequalto%257Csafari%257Camp%257Crls%257Cequalto%257Cen%257Camp%257Cq%257Cequalto%257Cled%2Bflasher%2Brelay%257Camp%257Caq%257Cequalto%257Cf%257Camp%257Caqi%257Cequalto%257Cg2g-m2%257Camp%257Caql%257Cequalto%257Cf%257Camp%257Coq%257Cequalto%257C%257Camp%257Cgs_rfai%257Cequalto%257C&catalogId=104032&CAWELAID=151248940&segment=badger-street

It should be arriving this week so I'll let you know if it works on my 350
 
For future reference, load equalizers for led turn signals kinda defeat the purpose. They help draw more current so the signal relay works properly, but they disperse the extra current in the form of heat. So you can't zip tie them to the frame and they can melt wires if they are touching them.

Check out www.superbrightleds.com for signal relays that work with LED's
 
Big R said:
For future reference, load equalizers for led turn signals kinda defeat the purpose. They help draw more current so the signal relay works properly, but they disperse the extra current in the form of heat. So you can't zip tie them to the frame and they can melt wires if they are touching them.

Check out www.superbrightleds.com for signal relays that work with LED's
Click to expand...

Good call Big R. Took a little searching to find them on that site but they are cheaper than the link i posted (and paid for :( )

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fflashers.htm
 
Big R said:
For future reference, load equalizers for led turn signals kinda defeat the purpose. They help draw more current so the signal relay works properly, but they disperse the extra current in the form of heat. So you can't zip tie them to the frame and they can melt wires if they are touching them.

Check out www.superbrightleds.com for signal relays that work with LED's
Click to expand...

yeah, thats what i meant
 
Bobdot said:
Good call Big R. Took a little searching to find them on that site but they are cheaper than the link i posted (and paid for :( )

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fflashers.htm
Click to expand...

thank you for the link i will check it out. i will just pick up the switch for now
 
dcmspikes said:
i have two load equalizers. i also have a small-ish taillight. you can pretty much have them. not sure if the brake light is LED. i think the load equalizer basically makes the LED system use as much energy as the original lights so there is enough current to make the flasher work. i could be wrong. should be able to find a flasher that will work on much less current.
Click to expand...

thank you for the offer josh i will have to test the stuff out. i'm working this weekend but i believe i'm off early i'll let you know that way we can meet up hopefully.
 
so i have the motor back together half way here is why. but i am pumped to be at this point of the build because things are getting done finally. anyways i can't get the cam chain to link up. it seems that a link is missing but i know one isn't. here are the photos hopefully someone can give me some insight.

thanks guys

IMAG0149.jpg


IMAG0142.jpg


IMAG0140.jpg
 
i would like to say thanks to Big R due to sending me the exhaust manifolds they are on their way. and dcmspike for the spring remover. my little trick worked but installing them was a different story.
 
No prob buddy!

Did you mess with the cam chain tensioner? If it's too tight, it can stop the ends from meeting up. Push the arm up all the way by hand and tighten it up. Once the chain is connected, loosen the bolt just enough that it puts pressure on the chain.

And I'll tell you the same thing I tell everyone else: make sure the cam chain is on the crankshaft sprocket correctly! That's how I sheared my master pin and had to pull the motor again.
 
Are you going to re-use the cam chain master link and clip? I am debating on that myself. Part of me doesn't trust the concept of a master link, although I know they work perfectly fine. Especially re-using the clip that gets pried off.

Either way make sure the clip is facing the right way, that is the one thing I do know about master links.
 
Big R said:
No prob buddy!

Did you mess with the cam chain tensioner? If it's too tight, it can stop the ends from meeting up. Push the arm up all the way by hand and tighten it up. Once the chain is connected, loosen the bolt just enough that it puts pressure on the chain.

And I'll tell you the same thing I tell everyone else: make sure the cam chain is on the crankshaft sprocket correctly! That's how I sheared my master pin and had to pull the motor again.
Click to expand...

i looked at a lot of posts about cam chains and you preach the crankshaft sprocket hahaha i am making sure it is on there correctly so i think i will pull the cam off again line everything up and see what happens.
 
fastcat14 said:
Are you going to re-use the cam chain master link and clip? I am debating on that myself. Part of me doesn't trust the concept of a master link, although I know they work perfectly fine. Especially re-using the clip that gets pried off.

Either way make sure the clip is facing the right way, that is the one thing I do know about master links.
Click to expand...

i'm just going to reuse it i didn't rip it off or anything i believe it will work. we will see
 
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