My first bike '75 cb360
- Thread starter stacygwiner1
- Start date
stacygwiner1
Active Member
deviant said:
At this point we've lowered it, I'm just not sure on how much. It doesn't appear that we'd have clearance issues. We're not changing to much with the frame where the seat will sit, plan to kick the seat up a bit in the back. Pretty sure hubby took for a spin after he lowered, but not a bad idea to double check.
RoyalRider
2010 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 - 1982 Honda CB125s
Lurker here (recently got an account because I plan to post my build soon when I can start working in my garage and finish it up).
Glad I stumbled upon this thread, learned a few things....
OP I'm incredibly jealous you got that bike for 500 bones. It will look amazing when you're done with it.
Should have realized that fresh cables (especially hard to find ones like drum-brake lines for a '81 Honda CB125s) would come un-lubbed and thanks to Trek97 I now know where to get a cable-luber-thingi. That plus the wealth of info you posted about managing air/fuel when changing the exhaust, thanks for that!
Something that peaked my interest :
xb33bsa : "just remember the tire comes up further than the seat frame rails, so you cant put a flat seat base on top of the frame
" & "well flat,brat style seats very rarely work with normal suspension travel [...]or just do it wrong like 99% of the bratards ...your choice"
I'm not doing a brat with my Honda but I did notice that a lot of brats seem to simply put a flat aluminium (sometimes just a skateboard lol) pan over the frame and call it a day.
So are you saying that if you do that alone and don't mess with the suspension the rear wheel will knock up and bust through/rub against the pan messin' up your day or causing a crash? hmmmm very interesting.
Couldn't help but laugh at yet another freak out about the damn firestone tires lol Plenty of people ride them without trouble, by now we should know some people don't launch themselves around corners and just want to take it easy and drive slow. I intend to maybe put some on my Royal Enfield, maybe people won't freak out because everyone knows I'm not pullin' 30 degree turns with that ol' beater
Glad I stumbled upon this thread, learned a few things....
OP I'm incredibly jealous you got that bike for 500 bones. It will look amazing when you're done with it.
Should have realized that fresh cables (especially hard to find ones like drum-brake lines for a '81 Honda CB125s) would come un-lubbed and thanks to Trek97 I now know where to get a cable-luber-thingi. That plus the wealth of info you posted about managing air/fuel when changing the exhaust, thanks for that!
Something that peaked my interest :
xb33bsa : "just remember the tire comes up further than the seat frame rails, so you cant put a flat seat base on top of the frame
" & "well flat,brat style seats very rarely work with normal suspension travel [...]or just do it wrong like 99% of the bratards ...your choice"I'm not doing a brat with my Honda but I did notice that a lot of brats seem to simply put a flat aluminium (sometimes just a skateboard lol) pan over the frame and call it a day.
So are you saying that if you do that alone and don't mess with the suspension the rear wheel will knock up and bust through/rub against the pan messin' up your day or causing a crash? hmmmm very interesting.
Couldn't help but laugh at yet another freak out about the damn firestone tires lol Plenty of people ride them without trouble, by now we should know some people don't launch themselves around corners and just want to take it easy and drive slow. I intend to maybe put some on my Royal Enfield, maybe people won't freak out because everyone knows I'm not pullin' 30 degree turns with that ol' beater
RoyalRider
2010 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 - 1982 Honda CB125s
Maritime said:
Wow lol I'm kicking myself for never realizing that this would be the case. Makes me scratch my head about the plethora of bikes you see with straight pans put on the frame. Shit like this : http://imgur.com/a/L2Hok
I guess they really really don't care about performance/function or they've haven't taken the bike for a long enough ride to happen to hit a pot hole? Or are Californian roads truly that legendary lol
stacygwiner1
Active Member
RoyalRider said:
Yeah, interesting. I think at this point best thing to do is mock it up. Luckily, for us, we have materials laying around and the tooling required to do just about anything. I'm still having a hard time picturing any sort of clearance issues with our plan. But I'm not looking at the bike right at this moment either. The wheel would have hit the original as well, the way I'm picturing it. I'll look at it tonight if I've got the chance and post some pics. Maybe that'll help.
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
One easy fix is to put a larger stop on the shocks to shorten travel, that stops the contact but also makes for a harsher ride, Best is to move the shock mounts lower, although then you change geometry etc. I did a flatter seat by removing the puffy factory foam and replacing with a newer closed cell foam, half as high, just as comfy on long rides and used stock pan, got the look without losing the function.
stacygwiner1
Active Member
Just looked at a photo. I see what you're saying now. Worst case scenario, mock her up and come up with a plan b. we've got capabilities to form sheet metal, of required. Good times!
stacygwiner1
Active Member
Maritime said:
Get info. Thanks!
RoyalRider
2010 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 - 1982 Honda CB125s
Maritime said:
I think that is what will be key to many brat seats yeah...
To OP : on my Honda (a smaller 125 so might be diff. compared to your 360) when you remove the tank and seat the rear fender loops higher than the frame thereby demonstrating that the wheel might travel higher than the frame.
Here I made an incredibly shitty MS Paint explanation using a pic of your bike you provided : http://i.imgur.com/g5lYUoM.jpg
The white line fender is to show the space that would be used if it was there and the red line points to the loop that you should consider as the "safe" height for your pan. I'm sure there are ways around this so you don't have to use a starting point that high up.
Of course this is all stuff you and your husband are aware of so I'm mostly posting this for other lurkers and for myself lol
stacygwiner1
Active Member
RoyalRider said:I think that is what will be key to many brat seats yeah...
To OP : on my Honda (a smaller 125 so might be diff. compared to your 360) when you remove the tank and seat the rear fender loops higher than the frame thereby demonstrating that the wheel might travel higher than the frame.
Here I made an incredibly shitty MS Paint explanation using a pic of your bike you provided : http://i.imgur.com/g5lYUoM.jpg
The white line fender is to show the space that would be used if it was there and the red line points to the loop that you should consider as the "safe" height for your pan. I'm sure there are ways around this so you don't have to use a starting point that high up.
Of course this is all stuff you and your husband are aware of so I'm mostly posting this for other lurkers and for myself lol
Yeah, actually he hasn't lowered the bike. It's just cinched down, my mistake. So I'm a little less concerned at this point. I'll post updates for all when we've mocked it up. We've seen many builds with brat style seats.. It's hard to imagine they'd all have clearance issues. But I can see why people think it would as it appears now. One way or the other, we'll figure it out.... Oh and we're not putting a fender on it. So that'll help too in sure.
RoyalRider
2010 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 - 1982 Honda CB125s
OP,
I wonder if some builds sorta "scooped" out the underside of their seats to allow clearance. Hard to imagine with how already thin brat seats tend to be. But I wonder how they would manage even with a scooped out bottom if they use big fat awesome firestone tires.
If you google-image "brat motorcycle" you will notice many of them seem to have extended the swing arm in some way and the seat now sits between the tire and the frame. Personally I like this look as I imagine brats as a form of dragster bike so it makes sense to extend the wheelbase but yeah I'm not telling ya what to do with your build so it will be up to you to decide.
Lookin forward to more updates. How easy was it to grind off the extra tabs on your frame? That's pretty much the next thing I have to do and if you don't mind could you let me know what type of grinder and grind wheel you used? Seems like you got good results.
I wonder if some builds sorta "scooped" out the underside of their seats to allow clearance. Hard to imagine with how already thin brat seats tend to be. But I wonder how they would manage even with a scooped out bottom if they use big fat awesome firestone tires.
If you google-image "brat motorcycle" you will notice many of them seem to have extended the swing arm in some way and the seat now sits between the tire and the frame. Personally I like this look as I imagine brats as a form of dragster bike so it makes sense to extend the wheelbase but yeah I'm not telling ya what to do with your build so it will be up to you to decide.
Lookin forward to more updates. How easy was it to grind off the extra tabs on your frame? That's pretty much the next thing I have to do and if you don't mind could you let me know what type of grinder and grind wheel you used? Seems like you got good results.
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
stacygwiner1
Active Member
RoyalRider said:
Used a cut off wheel to take the tabs off, then used a grinding disc to smooth out excess and finally a finer disc to sand it down. Used air and electric. Main thing to keep in mind is take your time so you don't cut into the main tube of the frame or welds that are close to where you're working. We have a small air tool that was nice if you're a little shaky, but our compressor sucks. As soon as I was comfortable I switched over to the electric one. It was relatively simple and turned out pretty swell. I'll try to get number off discs and post for ya. Off the top of my head I'm not sure the specs on them.
stacygwiner1
Active Member
jag767 said:
We're planning to use the stock shocks at this point. I think by having them cinched down the way they are and just mock the seat up should give us a pretty good idea. I think. Don't quote me. Have to get my hands into things to see. The main concern at this point is whether the flat seat pan will work, or if I have to contour it to add wheel clearance. I've got a pretty good idea on what we need to do, and I will definitely share my results to help solve the mystery of the brat seat.
haha.
RoyalRider
2010 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 - 1982 Honda CB125s
stacygwiner1 said:
Appreciate this a lot. I have to build my tool box from the ground up and I know so little about them. There's zero motorcycle building scene in my town and all the garages only work cars/atvs. Pretty much am relying solely on my race-car driver neighbor and the internet (with forums like this one) for help.
Maybe other more experienced users are going to laugh at me for knowing so little but I still don't fully see why the seat pan will be an issue when these builds (posted here no less) pretty much did that by laying the seat directly on the frame :
User blakews : http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=64444.0
User bydgoszcz : http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=58356.0 (same bike as yours)
stacygwiner1
Active Member
RoyalRider said:
I'm new to it, just like you. My husband is helping me. He's experienced with building hot rods and a fabricator. So I'm lucky there. Everyone has to start somewhere. So did the know it alls
stacygwiner1
Active Member
stacygwiner1 said:I'm new to it, just like you. My husband is helping me. He's experienced with building hot rods and a fabricator. So I'm lucky there. Everyone has to start somewhere. So did the know it alls
I'll have to wait until the weekend to get info for you. We have one to many projects in there and I can't get to the grinders at the moment.
