new cafe build cb450

sxecafe modded the cap door on his with a nice pop up cap. Talk to him about that. Looks slick. His is a 750f tank, but the mod should be similar.

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hey guys, just going to throw this out there and see what you all think, so i am waiting for the warp wheel to come, the smallest sprocket that could supply to me was a 40t. that seems to be the smallest sprocket for dirtbikes as im seeing looking around online.. thats 5t over the stock 450 rear sprocket (please correct me if im wrong). thoughts on this situation? will i have to lower my front sprocket a tooth or two? thanks fellas
 
You would need to go up a tooth or two in the front to get back to where you were.

Easiest why for me to think about it is imagining the sprockets were 1 to 1 ratio and you made the rear one larger. You would need to make the front larger to get back to a 1:1 ratio.




My build CB750 http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=38755
 
Looking awesome MJ. I just picked up a 74 450 so I've read through your whole thread. One question: did the new cam chain fix the timing issue you had? Marks all line up when done? And where did you buy the chain?

I rebuilt an XR650 several years ago and cheaped out on the chain thinking it would be OK. Big mistake I won't make again. They stretch over time and for the cost it just isn't worth the worry.

thanks
John
 
I bought the cam chain off eBay and it fixed my timing problem, the old chain I think would have been alright although I didn't feel like risking it. I was definitely off by a tooth on one side which was throwing things off
 
christmas yesterday at the house when i got home from work.. wheel looks good, headed over to the powdercoater today to get the front wheel matched up to the new rear. should have the wheels mounted with rubber next week. enjoy
 

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Charles said:
Mind telling me what the rotor spacers set you back? I'm doing a fork swap and need some lathed out.

had a friend of a friend do them in his spare time, he made me the spacers, lathed me an axle and bushings for 250.. definitely a fair deal in my opinion.. what kind of front end are you swapping on?
 
phat13 said:
Ooooooof. Nuf said Mr MJ 8)

i know right? lol so fresh.. now just need to find somebody in town to powdercoat the front wheel and match it up.. been to two places today and no luck, they all seem to just carry gloss black and the warp wheel isnt quite high gloss.. would be close but at this point money wise, i want it right. and the front hub.. only one guy in town that anodizes and he only has one generic gold.. wouldnt match.. so i need to get it pc'd somewhat close..
 
MJPriceisright said:
had a friend of a friend do them in his spare time, he made me the spacers, lathed me an axle and bushings for 250.. definitely a fair deal in my opinion.. what kind of front end are you swapping on?

GSX-R 600 fork tubes in CBR 929 triples with ZX-6R calipers mated to my XS400. I'll have all of the four major Japanese companies represented. ;)
 
hah yeah mine too.. maybe shoot speedbump a message, he is currently setting up a group purchase for front hubs that might suit your needs. here a link to this thread as well, its a good one.

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=43369.0
 
so ive been all over town trying to find a good place to powder the front wheel.. and as of now ive found the place.. but had a question for the peanut gallery.. should i anodize the front hub and adapters instead of PC them? found a place in town that can get em a shade or two within the same as the finished rear... i just feel like you would easily know one was pc'd and one was anodized ya know? any thoughts is appreciated fellas.
 
The rear wheel that I bought had a cb550 drum hub that had been powder coated very thick. When it was laced they chipped the powder. Powder coaters typically sand blast with coarse media and can mess up bearing surfaces and such. However a good powder coater will mask properly.

Anodizing is probably very expensive and you should have bearing bores masked.

If the old hub is pitted then I would powder coat to mask pits and such but anodizing is a bit better for assembly since its a thinner layer. Idk what kind of cost your looking at though.
 
guy said 70 bucks to have it anodized, but it needed to be cleaned up a little better.. starting to think i should just anodize it.. cause i was thinking about the thickness of powder, then the troubles of reassembly.. should i maybe dip it in something to get it really clean? simple green? soda blast it? gotta get the inside really clean he said too.
 
problem solved.. jrk5892 (joe) from the powder pro is going to get both wheels in mail.. said he would match the colors, PC everything and lace and true the wheel when hes finished. BOOOM ROASTED. stay tuned.
 
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