New Jersey sr500 tracker/scrambler
- Thread starter Nj732port
- Start date
Nj732port
Coast to Coast
Got my wiring done and on my lengths were pretty spot on couple zip ties to tuck/hide/hold in place and it'll be done. Drilling the headlight bucket and putting the toggle switches on they are all wired and working just need to be mounted.
Waiting on the tail light cause I need to do some welding and painting on the subframe area maybe make some kinda bracket or something decent looking maybe play with The seat pan and add something...
Putting the front master on and bleeding that tomorrow.
Black rims finally
No pics I'll take plenty tomorrow
Waiting on the tail light cause I need to do some welding and painting on the subframe area maybe make some kinda bracket or something decent looking maybe play with The seat pan and add something...
Putting the front master on and bleeding that tomorrow.
Black rims finally
No pics I'll take plenty tomorrow
Attachments
Nj732port
Coast to Coast
Carb was set at 250 main 30 pilot I turned the air screw so that it was 1.5 turns out it was turned out two and a half before I let it idle for a while while I worked on things it was still a pain in the ass to start not too bad but not something I want to go park in front of somewhere people will have to watch me start it ya know what I mean? 
???
Drilled two holes in the headlight and mounted my switches with the connections all covered or far enough a away they won't touch
Got a working front brake still gotta wire that not sure how to go about it so that its out of site wish these bars were steel
Ooooh I dropped my crush washer while leaning over the handle bars facing forward it fell behind me and landed between the grooves of a wood ramp -_- miracle I found it and got it out 8) .....it's near the spark plug and that's where the bike was when it happened
???Drilled two holes in the headlight and mounted my switches with the connections all covered or far enough a away they won't touch
Got a working front brake still gotta wire that not sure how to go about it so that its out of site wish these bars were steel
Ooooh I dropped my crush washer while leaning over the handle bars facing forward it fell behind me and landed between the grooves of a wood ramp -_- miracle I found it and got it out 8) .....it's near the spark plug and that's where the bike was when it happened
Attachments
yep you need to have the decomp so you can nudge it just past tdc comp stroke before putting a full long stroke in playNj732port said:
are you picking that up ?
it can be done without the realease as well its just much easier with
you dont use the release to actually start the engine
hey the bike is looking very good glad to see you are out riding
yoiu cant really tell much about jetting in the idle circuit by reading the plug
it wont ever leave a nice whitish insulator at idle the plug is not hot enough to clean itself and the ignition is retarded etc
plug reading is for wot to get your mainjet dialed do that first before fiddling with the idle cicuit and work your way down
....you will use up fewer new plugs that way
yoiu cant really tell much about jetting in the idle circuit by reading the plug
it wont ever leave a nice whitish insulator at idle the plug is not hot enough to clean itself and the ignition is retarded etc
plug reading is for wot to get your mainjet dialed do that first before fiddling with the idle cicuit and work your way down
....you will use up fewer new plugs that way
and good god man loosen up the chain, you will destroy shit running it like that srsly this is important shit
the manual tells how much slack you dont have anyu as far as i can tell
also if the shocks are longer than stock then the chain will have MORE slack than that, when unladen and you musdt do the test to figure out what it nereds to be a simole thing to do tho
it is much better and much SAFER to run the chain on the loose side than to have it so tight
the way you have it it may burn up the cs bearing if not a wheel bearing or very possible to break an axle adjuster chain tensioner with a possible crash from the wheel then violently cocking to one side and locking up on the swinger,all happening faster than you can fart a single note
this aint bullshit none of the above posts is either im trying to protect you, chissel chest, ya fukin jerky
the manual tells how much slack you dont have anyu as far as i can tell
also if the shocks are longer than stock then the chain will have MORE slack than that, when unladen and you musdt do the test to figure out what it nereds to be a simole thing to do tho
it is much better and much SAFER to run the chain on the loose side than to have it so tight
the way you have it it may burn up the cs bearing if not a wheel bearing or very possible to break an axle adjuster chain tensioner with a possible crash from the wheel then violently cocking to one side and locking up on the swinger,all happening faster than you can fart a single note
this aint bullshit none of the above posts is either im trying to protect you, chissel chest, ya fukin jerky
vandito.cb
Been Around the Block
i like the muffler. is it one of those dcc 12" shorties?
let me know dude i have some tt500 parts donor engine, there is a very precise way prepare to kickstart a single, specially needed on a big block like you haveNj732port said:
it is foolproof and with practice you will start it seemingly without effort every time 1st time
thats what the cam window was for i probably have those as well, and you should have them it helps a ton for a novice
besides that the actuall technique the kicker needs to be all the way up then engaged and then you launch almost your entire body weight straight up and let gravity help as you syunchro the actual leg kick ,your left foot should be in the aiir above the footpeg when the kicker is stroking,you balance and stabalize yourself with the grip on the bars
the that the preperation, is never kick it over unless you have carefully rotated the engine to exact tdc on comp stroke or just past
this is what the manual release is for to roll the engine past tdc without fighting compression
what happens when you do this, is the engine gets a full revolution and a half before it starts to compress air
it allows you to impart the greatest rotational speed possible because the heavy crankshft cannot be spun up quickly
but the icing on that cake is the inertial energy that you get from the heavy crank that will carry it thru 2 compression strokes,4 revolutions when done correctly but the fire should light the first rev up on comp
Nj732port
Coast to Coast
xb33bsa said:
Thanks for the clarification! Seriously I knew the technique but didn't know why it was that way you really made sense of the whole thing. My sight glass was broken when I bought the bike and I was able to feel my way to the whole tdc on the compression stroke with the comp release but I took it off.
Pulled this from the crank case do you have one? It's the piece behind three screws behind the kicker assembly
Attachments
Nj732port
Coast to Coast
Got the engine opened up found the broken piece now just gotta order it and put it in...
After riding it a bit my valves sounded loud but I'm not sure if it was just the chunk of metal smacking around in the crank case
Gotta play with my chain
Fit a compression release hopefully I can use a mx style clutch assembly with hot start
This thing hauls ass I love it ;D ;D ;D
After riding it a bit my valves sounded loud but I'm not sure if it was just the chunk of metal smacking around in the crank case
Gotta play with my chain
Fit a compression release hopefully I can use a mx style clutch assembly with hot start
This thing hauls ass I love it ;D ;D ;D
Attachments
Sucks about the kicker. Hopefully the part ain't a bitch to find. Watch out refitting that retaining ring too I would prob grab a new one they usually end up a bit loose after you take em off once, esp old ones.
