"Patina" The 1973 CB175 Cafe Racer
- Thread starter 1sttimer
- Start date
BUT if you have the bike where it is easy to fire and run what i would do is make a hash mark ,a witness as to the location of the timing now...then retard it a few degress about a mm max. rotate the plate same direction as engine.just to see if this kills the high idle situation
a very easy, quick, elimination process check...you can always put it right back on the mark
a very easy, quick, elimination process check...you can always put it right back on the mark
1sttimer
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: "Patina" The 1973 CB175 Cafe Racer
Ya, the manual tells you to set static then verify at full advance (with light). It seems the switch to VM20s are a solid and proven solution. I believe Texasstar did that with Lucky as well.
I'm learning and feel I'm starting to get close. I need a good sync and I feel ill be closer.
With as much as I fought this thing, I can't imagine selling it. So trying VMs one day may be a solution to test for learning as well.
jag767 said:
Ya, the manual tells you to set static then verify at full advance (with light). It seems the switch to VM20s are a solid and proven solution. I believe Texasstar did that with Lucky as well.
I'm learning and feel I'm starting to get close. I need a good sync and I feel ill be closer.
With as much as I fought this thing, I can't imagine selling it. So trying VMs one day may be a solution to test for learning as well.
jag767
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: "Patina" The 1973 CB175 Cafe Racer
Yea I actually bought a second cover to notch out so I can put a light to it and not lose oil, but honestly it's running so well I just havent. Your exhaust solution worked btw. Nice seal and sounds great! I was buzzing around the neighborhood before it started snowing. Damn snow!
My new issue is charging at idle. Awesome. I completely get the not being able to imagine selling it. I had a nice offer made for mine and I told the guy I'll build you one just like it but this one stays here!
1sttimer said:
Yea I actually bought a second cover to notch out so I can put a light to it and not lose oil, but honestly it's running so well I just havent. Your exhaust solution worked btw. Nice seal and sounds great! I was buzzing around the neighborhood before it started snowing. Damn snow!
My new issue is charging at idle. Awesome. I completely get the not being able to imagine selling it. I had a nice offer made for mine and I told the guy I'll build you one just like it but this one stays here!
1sttimer
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: "Patina" The 1973 CB175 Cafe Racer
And welcome to the tread btw
Indeed. Your new stator should help that charging issue. Also contact Sparck Moto if you want a reasonably priced new R/R.
The notch to see the light is clever. I have an extra cover laying around, but I haven't cut it up yet. I just put towels down
jag767 said:
And welcome to the tread btw
Indeed. Your new stator should help that charging issue. Also contact Sparck Moto if you want a reasonably priced new R/R.
The notch to see the light is clever. I have an extra cover laying around, but I haven't cut it up yet. I just put towels down
jag767
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: "Patina" The 1973 CB175 Cafe Racer
Thanks!
Actually the stator is in and I have a spark R/R. I read somewhere the ballistic performance 4 cell may be my issue but I'll figure it out.
I picked up a cover in sad shape off of flea bay for $15 shipped. Figured it would be worth it.
1sttimer said:And welcome to the tread btw
Indeed. Your new stator should help that charging issue. Also contact Sparck Moto if you want a reasonably priced new R/R.
The notch to see the light is clever. I have an extra cover laying around, but I haven't cut it up yet. I just put towels down
Thanks!
Actually the stator is in and I have a spark R/R. I read somewhere the ballistic performance 4 cell may be my issue but I'll figure it out.
I picked up a cover in sad shape off of flea bay for $15 shipped. Figured it would be worth it.
1sttimer
Over 1,000 Posts
I dont think I have to worry about going past 10k. Haha - although I can't quite figure this out but my tach stopped working last night - I'm not sure how that's even possible since it's a mechanically driven. I've yet to look into this.
However! I did manage to balance the carbs yesterday. I followed this procedure and it seems to have helped some. I am riding her around and having a good time.
SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both carbs. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each carb such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other carb.
With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other carb so that the slide on that carb just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both carbs begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.
BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT carb one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT carb one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
Turn the idle screw on each carb EXACTLY ONE QUARTER turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just synchronized and balanced your carbs
However! I did manage to balance the carbs yesterday. I followed this procedure and it seems to have helped some. I am riding her around and having a good time.
SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both carbs. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each carb such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other carb.
With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other carb so that the slide on that carb just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both carbs begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.
BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT carb one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT carb one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
Turn the idle screw on each carb EXACTLY ONE QUARTER turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just synchronized and balanced your carbs
\what a bunch of horseshit1sttimer said:
this throttle cable synch method is badly flawed and will only be accurate if the slides are sitting on the idle speed screws with a carefully adjusted,perfectly even opening of the throttle gap, but still just watching for them to move at the same time is funky and innacurate !! the popsicle stick method AS I HAVE DESCRIBED A HUNDRED TIMES !!!!!!!! is a much more accurate ,way fucking easier,proven method ;D use pop sticks of the same size and straight
