Triton Build

Nice project ! I have been down this road before and can offer a few bits of advice:

Do a dry build before paint or powder coat. Tritons require quite a bit of fiddling, tab removal, grinding, welding, spacers etc and the time to sort this out is before painting the frame. Use a universal folding kick stand, dry fit with motor and exhaust in place then weld or bolt it to the frame (prior to paint).

Spend a lot of time aligning, trueing and using the correct offsets of your rims and hubs. Aligning both rims to each other and the driveline so the bike rolls and runs true. Rebuild you front end with clinical precision and cleanliness. Use UK made fork tubes and bushings.

Use a decent head stay for the motor.

As long as you are rebuilding the motor, take the time (and money) to do it right, Replace the sludge trap and I strongly advise you to dynamically balance your crankshaft to your con rods and pistons. New bearings with the correct tolerances, consider a larger exhaust camshaft, unleaded valve seat conversion, valve springs etc.

Your build will go better if you a have another bike to ride. This will allow you to be patient, not race or cut corners. I picked up a cheap Honda CB550F, got her running and cleaned and cafe'd her out while building my Triton. I spent more thinking and researching my Triton than I did actual building and wrenching.

I spent countless hours researching, studying photos, chatting on britbike.com forum while building my Triton.
Here are a few links for advice, inspiration and parts:

http://www.dresda.co.uk/ The master. Look under the "development" tab for pictures of a Triton build. Great source for parts.
http://tritonproject.blogspot.com/ This is why I do not have children and have a beautiful Triton.
http://www.tri-corengland.com/ THE BEST PLACE to buy Triumph parts. Most, if not all, US Triumph parts dealers get their parts from here and mark up the prices.
http://www.unityequipe.com/html/home.html A quick and efficient way to rid yourself of all your money.
http://www.clubmanracing.com/ Frank has lots of Triton parts and stories too.
http://www.motos-anglaises.com/ In French, but look at the photos of 'les Tritons"
http://www.shelbynyc.com/nycnorton/racer2010.htm Featherbed based race bike.
http://www.supernaturale.com/articles.html?id=79 Another NYC Triton
http://www.roytonprecisiontooling.co.uk/products.htm Parts.
http://www.ace-cafe-london.com/Bikes.aspx Dig through the Ace Cafe's photos of Tritons.
http://www.realclassic.co.uk/triton04120100.html Triton story.

And above all, join www.britbike.com. The modified specials sections has many Triton builds, problems, advice etc. I am "Swan" on BB forum as well. Here is my Triton (all tucked away nice and warm until the spring).
DSCN6422.jpg


Good luck, keep posting and I look forward to watching your progress!
 
Congrats on getting your hands on the famed Featherbed, and getting the project moving. It's looking great so far. I've never ridden or wrenched on a British bike, but I'd love to pick one up at some point.

You should add your build to the NorPac thread. Right now I'm the only other person in the Portland/Vancouver area with an active build there.
 
Hey, sorry it took me so long to get back.

Heres the cross piece.
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And heres what I did for my sidestand.
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I don't exactly recall what it was off of. But any sidestand should work. The frame walls are kinda thin so I welded my tab to a split piece of tube, then welded that to the frame to spread the weight out a little. Like Swan said, the easist way to go would be a universal clamp around. Though, I'd weld it in place once you get it situated. I went with high pipes so I don't have any clearance issues.
100_2128.jpg


So, any thoughts on wheels, forks, tanks, fenders, pipes?

BTW, Swan, the bikes looouuking gooouud!
 
Speedfiend & Swan, thanks a bunch for the guidance. The frame support in the back makes total sense with the photo and I know see how it connects to the central oil tank.

Not making a bunch of progress this week. I am going to press out the crank from the timing side of the case on Wednesday. I will try to get the crank balanced in the next couple of weeks.
 
Wanted to post some more direction of the project.

I was fortunate enough to have ordered a tank from Terry Baker before he passed away this year. It was one of the last tanks he made. http://www.tabaker.co.uk/ Ordering the tank was the first thing I did when I acquired the frame. I had the money at the time and needed something pretty to sit on a ratty looking frame. A little dusty from sitting in the basement for a year but you get the jest.

I also purchased a top yoke from Clubman Racing. I believe he purchased it from Unity. The lower yoke is a Commando that will be power coated black. I did a quick soda blast to remove most of the paint.

This week I received a Steering Damper from Royton Precision Tooling. Looks a little gaudy without the clocks on the bike. But man it's a work of art!

Any suggestions for a tank buckle? The strap is easy enough. I have not seen anything else other than the standard Manx style buckle.

Wheels are going to be 18" I know some may squawk about 19". But after a conversation with Frank at Clubman he said select you tire then your rims. Sounds backwards but I really like Avon Roadriders.
 
There is a MUCH better tire selection with 18" rims.

Clubman's and Unity have a tank strap kit and I bought one. There a bit pricey but you could fabricate one using an old school ski boot buckle and some aluminum or stainless steel strap.

Do your homework on balancing, balancing factors and use a machinist who understands British crankshafts.

No luck heating the crankcase and gently pounding out the crank (with a appropriate sized socket over the crankshaft end to protect threads)?

Nice work so far, every little bit moves you towards a finished bike. Time and money...
 
I made my tankstrap, mostly cause I needed the toogle latch up at the front instead of the back. Also cause I'm cheap and like to make stuff.
I used this draw latch from McMaster-Carr. You can get em in stainless for $14.
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches/=a8qyie

McM-carr kicks ass! They have anything you might need for fabrication. And now, you don't have to have a company account. Ypu can order online and they ship next day.

Pop used a Unity strap on his. Looks nice, works fine.
 
Crank is free! The hydraulic press did the trick. I removed the sludge trap plug and the tube was about 1/2 full. I am struggling to get the sludge tube out. Exhausted a couple of tips from the rebuild videos and a couple online. It is currently soaking in simple green in a sonic cleaner. A little of this and a little heat and I should be good to go.


Thanks again for the photos from your bikes. This goes a long way in planing and doing things right the first time.
 

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Sorry for the lack of updates on the bike. I purchased a belt drive and pistons last month and just need to get the cylinder bored and get new big end bearings. But I have shelved the bike for a few months. I have decided to finish a project that was next in line. I also have a Triumph T160 Trident project. Mainly because I found a mentor to help with the motor. It will be a mostly stock example. Should have this bike running in about 2 months. I'm pretty excited to have it this summer. This bike blew up in '82 and has been sitting since.


I sold 2 Honda bikes yesterday to help fund the project and to clear space in the garage. Spring is here.
 
On drilling hubs, how do you know how much is safe to remove? I'm thinking of drilling my rear hub or the brakeplate.
 
Started to get back on this project with winter setting in. The Triumph t160 is running beautiful and I am very happy to have done it first. I have never owned a triple before. It is truly as advertised. A little over budget but so is anything that matters. I am bringing the motor to Bikesalot Vapor Blasting on Monday. I should have some before and after photos soon. Now I just really need to focus on selling a few items to help re-fund this.
 
what kind of hub? bike? sometimes you can find photo's of multiple bikes so you can copy theirs . if you feel uncomfortable it is best to be safe and underdrill it....
 
Here are some tech tips from Victory library on lightening and drilling holes in drum brake hubs: http://victorylibrary.com/brit/2LS-2.htm
 
Swan, thanks, great link! I am now thinking about drilling the front hub. I am using a Commando set up. 2 LS front and standard Commando rear. I am dropping off both hubs tomorrow to be vapor blasted with the motor cases. The 2ls plate is not being blasted. About 3 week turn around at this point.
 
No worries. I would drill, sand and polish your holes in the hubs BEFORE going to vapor blast.
 
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