JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
Holy shit! Pass the dutchie in a couple of months, sir!
Holy shit! Pass the dutchie in a couple of months, sir!
Un-remarkable BMW re-fresh. DONE.
- Thread starter trek97
- Start date
cookiemech
Active Member
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
My kind of place!
My kind of place!
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
After rebuilding the pump I found out the old cast impeller cant be used w the new seal.
Also, after the first rebuild. The pump wasnt leaking but I didnt feel very confident about using sockets and a hammer to pound the seal onto the shaft. (youtube "DIY" vids) So asked Kiley to make me a proper installation tool.
So rebuild 2.0.
Upon disassembly I tore the seal apart to see how it was made.
As suspected I Found it is a VERY fragile thing. Its made up of 9 separate components. A ring inside actually appears to be nothing more than a brittle, soft compressed graphite like material. Its soft enough that I can write with it like a pencil. And crack it to pieces w my fingers.
Probably easily damaged under percussive shock of using a hammer to beat it onto the shaft.
Installation tool. The OD of 34mm is bare minimum. It can be up to 40mm OD.
I lubed up the oil seal and shaft w 90w and installed them.
Then thoroughly cleaned and dried the shaft w acetone. So the seal wouldnt be prone to spinning on the shaft once fitted.
Rather than pounding the thing w a hammer. Or messing fumble fucking around trying to turn it on using the bolt.
I used a C-clamp to gently press the seal onto shaft and into housing at the same time.
This method worked out GREAT. I am really confident about the job.
Gave her a bit of waterpump sealant in the small groove between seal and shaft.
Torqued to 33nm and ready to go on the bike.
Ultra black for oil pump side pump/engine and Waterpump seal for cover side.
Idk maybe threebond would be better.
After rebuilding the pump I found out the old cast impeller cant be used w the new seal.
Also, after the first rebuild. The pump wasnt leaking but I didnt feel very confident about using sockets and a hammer to pound the seal onto the shaft. (youtube "DIY" vids) So asked Kiley to make me a proper installation tool.
So rebuild 2.0.
Upon disassembly I tore the seal apart to see how it was made.
As suspected I Found it is a VERY fragile thing. Its made up of 9 separate components. A ring inside actually appears to be nothing more than a brittle, soft compressed graphite like material. Its soft enough that I can write with it like a pencil. And crack it to pieces w my fingers.
Probably easily damaged under percussive shock of using a hammer to beat it onto the shaft.
Installation tool. The OD of 34mm is bare minimum. It can be up to 40mm OD.
I lubed up the oil seal and shaft w 90w and installed them.
Then thoroughly cleaned and dried the shaft w acetone. So the seal wouldnt be prone to spinning on the shaft once fitted.
Rather than pounding the thing w a hammer. Or messing fumble fucking around trying to turn it on using the bolt.
I used a C-clamp to gently press the seal onto shaft and into housing at the same time.
This method worked out GREAT. I am really confident about the job.
Gave her a bit of waterpump sealant in the small groove between seal and shaft.
Torqued to 33nm and ready to go on the bike.
Ultra black for oil pump side pump/engine and Waterpump seal for cover side.
Idk maybe threebond would be better.
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
That doesn't look like official BMW gasket maker. It's going fail in a firey mess.
That doesn't look like official BMW gasket maker. It's going fail in a firey mess.
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
Oh heck yeah. Seeing how it all goes together now, I would never pound that thing in with a hammer. That's worked out slick!
Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Oh heck yeah. Seeing how it all goes together now, I would never pound that thing in with a hammer. That's worked out slick!
Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
cookiemech
Active Member
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
Nice, very clean installation!
Guess I can send my water/oil pumps up to you for rebuilds now
Nice, very clean installation!
Guess I can send my water/oil pumps up to you for rebuilds now
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
Currently fighting a voltage drop issue.
Found my starter relay picks just fine, getting 12.4v through clutch switch.
However, the neutral circuit only feeds 10.4v. Not enough to pick the relay.
The digital gear selector lcd on the dash works fine. But the neutral light is staying lit all the time.
So, following instruction given by "rbm" on motobrick.com I did some tests. Cleaning connections, testing diode and such.
Ribbon cable tests fine.
Found the diode instrument cluster tested good.
New gear indicator board is no longer available from bmw. So, ordered a used board from kbikeparts.com.
A new oem relay from enduralast.com and picked up a pack of diodes to build a snubber circuit to stop any chance of backfeeding voltage to the board caused by collapsing coil field emf.
New just waiting for board to arrive.
Currently fighting a voltage drop issue.
Found my starter relay picks just fine, getting 12.4v through clutch switch.
However, the neutral circuit only feeds 10.4v. Not enough to pick the relay.
The digital gear selector lcd on the dash works fine. But the neutral light is staying lit all the time.
So, following instruction given by "rbm" on motobrick.com I did some tests. Cleaning connections, testing diode and such.
Ribbon cable tests fine.
Found the diode instrument cluster tested good.
New gear indicator board is no longer available from bmw. So, ordered a used board from kbikeparts.com.
A new oem relay from enduralast.com and picked up a pack of diodes to build a snubber circuit to stop any chance of backfeeding voltage to the board caused by collapsing coil field emf.
New just waiting for board to arrive.
cookiemech
Active Member
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
I don't recall whether you said anything earlier in this thread about disassembling and cleaning the starter, but one of the bizarre eccentricities of the early K-bike designs is that some of the grounds that pick up essential relays run through the starter. Now since I'm not out in my garage (where I have a very nice laminated color-coded wiring diagram), I can't say if this is in any way related to your current (ha, ha!) issue, but it's something to keep in your back pocket even if it isn't. I've seen just a bit of filth in the starter cause difficult or impossible starting, as well as weird turn signal behavior.
Credit for learning about this oddity goes to my former BMW dealer, Craig Immel.
But maybe you already have this covered. Interested to see how you solve this issue.
I don't recall whether you said anything earlier in this thread about disassembling and cleaning the starter, but one of the bizarre eccentricities of the early K-bike designs is that some of the grounds that pick up essential relays run through the starter. Now since I'm not out in my garage (where I have a very nice laminated color-coded wiring diagram), I can't say if this is in any way related to your current (ha, ha!) issue, but it's something to keep in your back pocket even if it isn't. I've seen just a bit of filth in the starter cause difficult or impossible starting, as well as weird turn signal behavior.
Credit for learning about this oddity goes to my former BMW dealer, Craig Immel.
But maybe you already have this covered. Interested to see how you solve this issue.
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
The same goes for the airheads, which is why I moved to a simplified diagram and removed most of the relays.
The same goes for the airheads, which is why I moved to a simplified diagram and removed most of the relays.
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
I replaced the starter w new. After the contacts welded closed in the starter relay. Pert near burning itself to the ground.
The ground for the starter relay is controlled by the ICU (more specifically the Hall sensor). Once the engine reaches 710rpm. (faster than the starter can turn the engine). The ICU assumes the engine is started and running, at that point the ICU opens the ground to the starter relay. (A SAFETY FEATURE) meaning if the bike is running, and in neutral OR the clutch is pulled. One wouldnt be able to hit the starter button, destroying the starter clutch.
So, got the gear indicator board replaced and now working as intended, and still the thing wont pick the starter relay. Currently waiting for a new to me ICU.
There is a work around for all this (which will be a last resort (for me anyways) option. It removes the safe feature of automatically removing the ground to the relay.
I will forge ahead troubleshooting, reading and learning as I go. Long as the body is out for paint I got nothing but time.
If this thing had carbs...I would already be there. But fuel injection adds a lot of bullshit to the mix.
cookiemech said:
I replaced the starter w new. After the contacts welded closed in the starter relay. Pert near burning itself to the ground.
The ground for the starter relay is controlled by the ICU (more specifically the Hall sensor). Once the engine reaches 710rpm. (faster than the starter can turn the engine). The ICU assumes the engine is started and running, at that point the ICU opens the ground to the starter relay. (A SAFETY FEATURE) meaning if the bike is running, and in neutral OR the clutch is pulled. One wouldnt be able to hit the starter button, destroying the starter clutch.
So, got the gear indicator board replaced and now working as intended, and still the thing wont pick the starter relay. Currently waiting for a new to me ICU.
There is a work around for all this (which will be a last resort (for me anyways) option. It removes the safe feature of automatically removing the ground to the relay.
I will forge ahead troubleshooting, reading and learning as I go. Long as the body is out for paint I got nothing but time.
irk miller said:
If this thing had carbs...I would already be there. But fuel injection adds a lot of bullshit to the mix.
cookiemech
Active Member
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
OK, good . . . You're way ahead of me!
Knock on wood, I've never had the least bit of trouble with the FI in my K bikes, other than the need to replace O-rings on the injectors and the rubber between the airbox and throttle bodies (all due to age). It's a crude but robust system (well, for most of us, that is ;D).
Hope you get this sorted.
OK, good . . . You're way ahead of me!
Knock on wood, I've never had the least bit of trouble with the FI in my K bikes, other than the need to replace O-rings on the injectors and the rubber between the airbox and throttle bodies (all due to age). It's a crude but robust system (well, for most of us, that is ;D).
Hope you get this sorted.
Re: A rather un-remarkable BMW re-fresh.
Im learning and thats never a bad thing. I now know how to test diodes and transistors.
Something else, I never wanted to know.
fingers crossed, looks like the ICU will arrive Friday, AND its in working order. Not the biggest fan of buying used electronics through ebay. Although I havent had a bad experience...yet. :
Then I will know a whole lot more about which direction this project is headed.
Up the road or down a steep cliff.
Im learning and thats never a bad thing. I now know how to test diodes and transistors.
Something else, I never wanted to know.
fingers crossed, looks like the ICU will arrive Friday, AND its in working order. Not the biggest fan of buying used electronics through ebay. Although I havent had a bad experience...yet. :
Then I will know a whole lot more about which direction this project is headed.
Up the road or down a steep cliff.
