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The A:F on all runs starts rich and goes progressively leaner. On the Blue run A:F doesn't tell us much because it's missing and that much of a miss means the semi burned mixture is all wrong and misleading.
Is that the change in timing or carbs or did that just start between runs with no other changes?
What timing are you now running at full advance?
Did you try running it up with a fresh battery or jumper cables yet to see if that made any difference.
I would try that before you get into jetting changes. You will want smaller air jets though at some time.
we will get there...dyna says they don't see rotors fail...and rarely the triggers...contrary to what the online community says. What I have read is magnets will fail at 425 degrees and if you drop them. Dynatek says there is no way to test the trigger and that we have to send it in. I changed too many things at one time.
The A:F on all runs starts rich and goes progressively leaner. On the Blue run A:F doesn't tell us much because it's missing and that much of a miss means the semi burned mixture is all wrong and misleading.
Is that the change in timing or carbs or did that just start between runs with no other changes?
What timing are you now running at full advance?
Did you try running it up with a fresh battery or jumper cables yet to see if that made any difference.
I would try that before you get into jetting changes. You will want smaller air jets though at some time.
No changes were made on the Dyno. I just picked up all the data to examine. We will try a fresh battery and the cables tonight. Dynatek says we need 12.5 volts at the coil and red wire going to the EI.
Dropping them won't cause problems most of the time but at 425C I'm not surprised they would fail. Get them hot enough and magnets eject but that needs a propane torch to get that hot. I cannot see a rotor failing in any way on a motor.
Triggers (pickups) tend to just fail open circuit without a spark if they are cooked at high enough temperature for long enough. Your misfire sounds like it's electrical which is why I'd look at the battery first.
nyloc nuts are only gauranteed by a mfg to be used once(this is mostly a liability deal in my hoe) they can and do wear out but even a 8 times used one still has quite a bit of resistance ....of course if the threads are rusty or boogerd they will cut the plastic to a worn out manner in short order
What I don't understand is the brake stay has no pressure on it but the one at the rear backed off from where it was tightened up against the end of the thread and where the stay is allowed to pivot. If the rear axel was loose then where did the front stay bolt go? The rear adjustment screw was bent on the right rear to 90 degrees...It felt like I lost a shock and the rear got loose...
Just a funny tidbit I was 2 miles away from home and as soon as I pulled over and killed it Zeke called me on my cell phone and said, "we are on our way"
What I don't understand is the brake stay has no pressure on it but the one at the rear backed off from where it was tightened up against the end of the thread and where the stay is allowed to pivot. If the rear axel was loose then where did the front stay bolt go? The rear adjustment screw was bent on the right rear to 90 degrees...It felt like I lost a shock and the rear got loose...
Just a funny tidbit I was 2 miles away from home and as soon as I pulled over and killed it Zeke called me on my cell phone and said, "we are on our way"
Yes this is Lucky's ignition I just got a new Dyna S in the mail on Saturday for Victoria.
We have been using a shorai battery from Lucky but we will pull mom's battery to check later. What is interesting is we did 1-4 Dyno runs and the misfire happens after the 3rd run. Then we change fuel and do 5-10 runs and the misfire happens 7-10 It may be the lithium battery...loosing a charge???
No changes were made on the Dyno. I just picked up all the data to examine. We will try a fresh battery and the cables tonight. Dynatek says we need 12.5 volts at the coil and red wire going to the EI.
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