Victoria! Zeke's CB175 Build

[Texasstar]

if you are worried about it coming off, it won't, but you should just have threads showing,enough to cross drill it and put a cotter pin ,still allows you to adjust without undoing anything

we will do that!
Thank you!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[teazer]

XB is correct, it's a cam nut and shouldn't come off, and the usual way to secure it is to put a split pin through the exposed end of the actuating rod. It your footpeg arrangement doesn't allow for exposed threads (rod too short) then drill from flat to flat across the heads ie from one flat to the one beside it, and tether the lock wire to the brake arm with a little slack in it.

 

[Texasstar]

XB is correct, it's a cam nut and shouldn't come off, and the usual way to secure it is to put a split pin through the exposed end of the actuating rod. It your footpeg arrangement doesn't allow for exposed threads (rod too short) then drill from flat to flat across the heads ie from one flat to the one beside it, and tether the lock wire to the brake arm with a little slack in it.

Thank you! We are being a little paranoid...after two come to Jesus meetings in one week with the brakes.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Texasstar]

I (not having any race experience) would drill a small hole in the brake arm, but I know you're asking the RIGHT way to do it

good call!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[crazypj]

I really don't like to see a brake rod without threads exposed, there is always a chance that it could pull through. Minimum engagement for any bolt is same as thread diameter +1 thread exposed (I don't remember the reason but it is a stress/fracture thing)
Because adjuster nut is so long, you'll have to measure down inside to find thread engagement

 

[Texasstar]

I really don't like to see a brake rod without threads exposed, there is always a chance that it could pull through. Minimum engagement for any bolt is same as thread diameter +1 thread exposed (I don't remember the reason but it is a stress/fracture thing)
Because adjuster nut is so long, you'll have to measure down inside to find thread engagement

we can adjust the brake rod to come through...just screwed it on for the picture


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Texasstar]

dyno time!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Texasstar]

We are running lean at 12-13.5 k


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[1sttimer]

We are running lean at 12-13.5 k


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This may be a stupid question...but at what point do you start worrying about valve float with the springs not being able to keep up with cam speed? I may have missed it...what springs are you using?

 

[simo]

The stock set up is good to a 10.5-12k redline

 

[Texasstar]

This may be a stupid question...but at what point do you start worrying about valve float with the springs not being able to keep up with cam speed? I may have missed it...what springs are you using?

not stupid at all...this is the second time someone has taken it to 13.5k *cough* Benjamin being the first lol the megaphones were making the Dyno malfunction so Jim used our tach. We have R/D valve springs with titanium retainers...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Texasstar]

T4 made better hp this time up a half hp this dyno sheet is for two runs on T4 in fourth and fifth gear


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Texasstar]

The BIG difference with MR12 has to be torque... Because the MR12 got there 2 seconds faster...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Texasstar]

MR12 is blue and T4 is red looks like we needed to jet up with the MR12

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Texasstar]

The sound of Mr12 "dad she sounds evil" http://youtu.be/FqSbABkvt90


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Texasstar]

Look at the almost instantaneous HP of the MR12

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Texasstar]

T4

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Texasstar]

The left column is the seconds column


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simo]

The air/fuel mix seems way off (you're aiming for around 14?) on the T4 is that whats affecting the HP?

 

[Texasstar]

The air/fuel mix seems way off (you're aiming for around 14?) on the T4 is that whats affecting the HP?

t4 is running rich initially and then leans out at the end. 12-13 is what we are aiming for...at wot. The MR12 is staggering on its power but is going way lean at the end. We don't want to burn a piston...above 12k it goes way lean no matter what the fuel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk