no you had it right technically. The T4 is continuing to make power all the way to the end. We had to call it a day on the Dyno because we have no data for the RPM which is critical. Something is wrong with the equipment. We want to stay at 12-13 because of the heat. I need to check the temp gage for the highest temp. Now the Mr12 power drops off as it gets lean. We will go back to the Dyno with larger jets and see if we make more power but the MR12 data is amazing and it may be in our benefit to go with a lower redline and keep the better acceleration.simo said:So I got that the wrong way around
Texasstar said:T4 made better hp this item up a half of hp to 22.42 edit MR12 made 22.63 while U4.4 made 23.2
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yes this dyno sheet was a 4th and 5th gear run for the same fuel...the t4 fuel but my comment made it confusing because I was thinking and typing out loud.teazer said:That looks like one run was in 4th and the other in 5th. How else can the speeds be so different with a similar graph shape? The dyno is out of calibration or something is wrong. 19hp at low RPM is just wrong. I realize that was against t (time) but if the revs kept increasing, then it started at low revs and a lot less power - or was that run a constant speed run at close to peak RPM for 7 seconds?
All the runs go lean towards the top end which indicates it need smaller main air jets of a taller spray tube (needle jet). See if you can get a pair for a late model CB750F or F2 check this and others and try to get all 3 common heights to test. Or remove the air jet with an EZ out and measure the jet diameter and have some made in slightly smaller sizes. I may hyave a pair here but I can't lay my hands on a stock one to measure right now to see if I have a pair in a suitable size.
Or go with larger main jets and allow it to run a little rich at lower revs.
Have you "ported" the fuel intakes above the needle jets and do you have enough fuel flow to support say 30Hp (play safe) at say 14,000 at say 7 pounds of fuel per hour per HP? It may just be running the float bowls dry
good pointxb33bsa said:when you hit the bumps it is going to apply the brake automatically unless you have quite a bit of free play in the pedal
thank XB we are pulling! No I wasn't aware until you mentioned it! Will watch from now on.xb33bsa said:depends on the relationship/geometry are you pulling or pushing ?
anyway just wanted to make sure you were aware that brake bump is an issue to watch out for
god bless texas ;D
but you truly do have bump brake so you must leave quite a bit if free play at the pedalcafe mike said:I had to put a positive stop on mine. Just a bolt with some layers of heat shrink. Then added a spring just because and covered it with loose heat shrink. Without it the rear brake actuator rod woud over center and flip my pedal up.