Victoria! Zeke's CB175 Build

Just look at it as if your trying to unscrew nut, it should pull wire tighter.
If it's doing that your OK
Try to have the 'untwisted' part around nut
 
Does anybody know the frequency at which gas will start to bubble and foam?


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Kop suggested that we put lead wheel weights on the bowls to deal with the fuel foaming at high revs...said that it was a common problem in race bikes


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crazypj said:
Just look at it as if your trying to unscrew nut, it should pull wire tighter.
If it's doing that your OK
Try to have the 'untwisted' part around nut
will do


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You could stick wheel weights on if that's an issue.

Almost any locking is OK with wire. It doesn't stop the nut from vibrating loose. It really just stops it from spinning off. Wait for replies to that......

Jets on a plane headed your way.
 
teazer said:
You could stick wheel weights on if that's an issue.

Almost any locking is OK with wire. It doesn't stop the nut from vibrating loose. It really just stops it from spinning off. Wait for replies to that......

Jets on a plane headed your way.
Thanks Teazer!!!


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better?


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That looks very professional. How thick is that lock wire? I try to pick up an industrial sized roll of .020" stainless at Oshkosh if I get there or on line from Aircraft Spruce.

How thick is that bottom front fairing stay and how much weight could you save with an aluminum one or "bent tin" ie thin gauge steel pressed into a U channel shape with a thin wall chrome moly cross tube (or all aluminum). Just teasing you because we can....:)
 
teazer said:
That looks very professional. How thick is that lock wire? I try to pick up an industrial sized roll of .020" stainless at Oshkosh if I get there or on line from Aircraft Spruce.

How thick is that bottom front fairing stay and how much weight could you save with an aluminum one or "bent tin" ie thin gauge steel pressed into a U channel shape with a thin wall chrome moly cross tube (or all aluminum). Just teasing you because we can....:)
we were hoping the aluminum exhaust collars would offset the steel fairing mounts ;) we head down to COTA in Austin on Tuesday. Looks like we may need to build a rear fender to keep water out of the carbs with our forecast...that is .032" annealed brass safety wire from Aircraft Spruce. Interesting read on the history of safety wire and we needed to check it out. Had Zeke practice with both stainless and the brass he likes the .041" stainless on the fairing clips...don't want them to go anywhere ;) the "why" is so important. Like not using nylocks on vibrating machines. Takes a lot of Zen not to break the brass so you don't break your ass ;) Don't you think that he should learn not to nick the brass before he should move to doing the stainless? My grandfather was a dairyman and when he taught me to milk a cow by hand he said, "just grab that tete and pull" bad advice later in life...I wish he had taught me more finesse when I was younger ;)


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Sure, get the wheel off the ground and spin it and mark the bottom of the wheel when it stops.
Then add some weight opposite. Keep fine tuning until your mark never stops in the same place.
Make sure your brakes are not dragging 8)
 
SONIC. said:
Sure, get the wheel off the ground and spin it and mark the bottom of the wheel when it stops.
Then add some weight opposite. Keep fine tuning until your mark never stops in the same place.
Make sure your brakes are not dragging 8)
thanks Sonic! I assume same goes for the rear if you remove the chain ?


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I don't see why not.
I Usually do it on a truing stand, but it shouldn't matter

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2AuivYzaBs
This guy even has a tip on safety wire haha
 
Worked great seems like it would be better to do it on the bike... http://youtu.be/yJLgHlzqE4A


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Yep, I have only ever had to add weight once. The other 3 times both front and back were balanced without it.
 
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