Victoria! Zeke's CB175 Build

+1
Your wasting your time buying 1/16" bits in anything less than 10 pack,
Buy in bulk on-line for a better deal on better quality dills
 
teazer said:
Cables are the only way to go.......

Use a drill press and buy 1/16" drill bits in bulk. If I have space I sometimes just cross drill the head from one flat to teh one opposite, but if I want it to look more professional I start the hole on one flat and when it's about 1/16 to 1/8" deep I rotate the bolt so that the drill bit is now drill from that flat to the one next to it.

If you don't have a jig, grab a slab of say 1" x 1" steel and drill and tap a few holes for say 6mm x 1.0mm, 8x 1.25 etc for the common sizes and use that to screw the bolts into to hold them still as you drill them. Use a nut on teh other side to resist rotation if necessary. And did I mention, but lots of drill bits. They tend to be a little fragile and as things move they fall apart. Maybe there are some tougher Texan drill bits that can handle more stress. :)
thank you and yes we will be making that conversion from now on. Speaking of tough 13.5k revving Texans...Benjamin introduced us to our first center punch and the the center drill counter sink bits http://t.harborfreight.com/5-piece-center-drill-countersink-set-60381.html?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F when we did our vents and I just found an article from a guy who says they are the trick so we will try those for a pilot hole and finish with the other bit and lots of cutting fluid http://miniroadracers.informe.com/forum/tech-questions-f2/drilling-safety-wire-help-t2957.html


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Ok here is the plan for safety wiring. Got the Dremel workstation, 4836 chuck, the workstation vice. (Love my Dremel) The center drill counter sink bits and a 10 pack of 1/16 bits titanium bits.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
farmer92 said:
This whole thread is retarded in the most wonderful way possible.
This is like eating a pound of bacon, covered in maple syrup.
It makes no sense to do it, until you do it.

Major props
lol thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
center drills are exactly what they say they are, normally used when you have along bar in lathe and need to support the end with a center (60 degree point)
You'll see all kinds of shafts with center drillings, ends of crankshaft, gear shafts, wheel spindles, etc
They are also real useful when marking for drilling as you will be doing
 
careful with the tiny center drill ;) they don't have any twist to speak of so chips don't clear very well and when the tip breaks off all waller-galded in there you gotta start over
 
How many miles of light braking do I need to do before heavy braking for the new pads?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just slowly bring brakes up to temp a couple of times, even with light braking it will not take long
 
99063e79e085ff50129ed691a42db95d.jpg
very light with the high temp grease on all metal to metal contact for the pads??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
teazer said:
That looks like one run was in 4th and the other in 5th. How else can the speeds be so different with a similar graph shape? The dyno is out of calibration or something is wrong. 19hp at low RPM is just wrong. I realize that was against t (time) but if the revs kept increasing, then it started at low revs and a lot less power - or was that run a constant speed run at close to peak RPM for 7 seconds?

All the runs go lean towards the top end which indicates it need smaller main air jets of a taller spray tube (needle jet). See if you can get a pair for a late model CB750F or F2 check this and others and try to get all 3 common heights to test. Or remove the air jet with an EZ out and measure the jet diameter and have some made in slightly smaller sizes. I may hyave a pair here but I can't lay my hands on a stock one to measure right now to see if I have a pair in a suitable size.

Or go with larger main jets and allow it to run a little rich at lower revs.

Have you "ported" the fuel intakes above the needle jets and do you have enough fuel flow to support say 30Hp (play safe) at say 14,000 at say 7 pounds of fuel per hour per HP? It may just be running the float bowls dry
Teazer I am confused...here is the fiche for the cb750f can you point out what I am looking for?
39ddd90db5778e2809f152bb83ec091d.jpg
22c5210bce9bbe65c08b0d4f316baf1e.jpg
the other is the cb77 fiche


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I guess Part 3 in the 750 part 7 in the cb77 ( if I get it right do I get a prize?)
On another note it 2 years of chatting on the net crazy
I've decided I'm no longer going to call my project building a bike .... it's growing a bike
 
I think you may be 15 yrs too young, take a look at CB750 K0, K1~K7, F1, F2, K8 1969~78
They all have similar carbs.The ones your showing are the 1978~81 dohc CV carbs
 
crazypj said:
I think you may be 15 yrs too young, take a look at CB750 K0, K1~K7, F1, F2, K8 1969~78
They all have similar carbs.The ones your showing are the 1978~81 dohc CV carbs
that would explain it...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Zeke is doing his first brake job. He cleaned everything with acetone and sanded the hub with 180 grit
f71bdf597a1d8f3c7f5d498ea6090407.jpg
0cd6a43c284b80c2ebd138aedd3faf8e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok we did it old school with a pair of vice grips, center punch, and center drill countersink discovered if you drill two 45 degree holes it worked great
818e21a64402abaab2d74493a92fee36.jpg
h
c8e1e05f1c2e68cd3a0f6b5b94219a15.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top Bottom