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Quite possibly on the shaft drive version. It's the same for the XS750/850 with the 16" rear wheels. They run a 140 or 150 cross section and that would interfere with the shaft, not so much on a chainer.
I firmly (pun intended) believe in bracing these older frames for the usual reasons, factories build to a price in both materials and design they do very well but... even if only for the tires of today the level of grip could wind up an old chassis? Plus it makes us all feel so smart when looking back through 30+ years and think "I can improve on that" A few light wall tubes properly placed adds very little weight and it's productive weight increasing needed chassis stiffness. Ten cents of opinion (adjusted for inflation).
Back when I did my first conversion and cut off the steering head I called "Traxxion Dynamics" for a front to rear wheel alignment spec. They told me .5mm, (.020") that's pretty tight over typical 56" WB
Cheers, 50gary
Aftermarket shocks are cool even to look at. Any plans for a reservoir remote or piggyback? I currently have a mono-shock project on the bench and I'm running into a clearance problem so I could be interested in your friend's product, will stay tuned.
Cheers, 50gary
No plans for piggy back Gary - actually NO NEED. In 25 years of racing and road use we have NEVER had an in use failure. The RAM/Bardahl Trophy Series was for 25 identical Cobra reps we supplied - all used these shox and the series was over 3 years. Shox were changed at the end of the season merely as a precaution.
In our view a piggy back system is a complicated answer looking for a problem.
Reject - there is no foul with front and rear wheels not running on the same centreline - as long as they are parallel. Took me a while to get my head around it. BMW have been doing this for years and we're NOT talking 1/16ths" and 1/8ths". There's a 1 1/2" rear wheel width difference on some Kay models bolting up to the same face - That's 3/4" centreline offset. I'm using a 6" rear from a K1200S -the original was 3 1/2" !!!
Lee - I am really like a 17 year old all over - the buzz I'm getting just thinking about this TR project is getting me up early in the morning ! I can't wait to dive into the engine guts - just like the first Manx engine I pulled down.
This thing could be a child of the 60's, it's so stone age!
The Amal Concentrics should be here in the next 3 weeks.
Why bother running a cover at all?
I took mine off and when I get a chance, will take a body file to the side case to take off the lip and polish the whole mess up.
I tried an insert that was drilled out to look like a dry clutch cover and discarded the idea 'cause it looked so bogus.
Pat.
Don't know what thickness of material you have on the cases on these? On the right hand side XS650 engine cover there is enough meat on the case to take a belt sander to the case and simply sand the case down until the Yamaha logo has gone.
Why bother running a cover at all?
I took mine off and when I get a chance, will take a body file to the side case to take off the lip and polish the whole mess up.
I tried an insert that was drilled out to look like a dry clutch cover and discarded the idea 'cause it looked so bogus.
Pat.
agree about the "why bother", but I've seen so many modded bikes now without a cover of any sort it's beginning to look a bit "let's all be different together". Practical yes - and different 'ish. However I hold my hands up - my Mk1 version is crap !
My main reason for ditching the OEM cover was to get rid of the Yam logo [ there won't be any when I've finished ]- the idea was to have the name "VINDICATOR" on the disc that currently has the slots in.
Pixie, that would be the simple way out for me as I don't have proper workshop facilities these days - but my pal at Realm is getting his welder guy to fill the logo [ clutch side ] with weld and then get it all fettled ready for paint. As I was walking round the bike yesterday I realised there's another Yamaha logo on the front brake reservoir cap ! Guess that will be one of my major expenses - have a new cap machined up with VINDICATOR on it !
Spoke with AC this morning over at Realm. The shox are ready for production - 50 being called off on the first run. There will be a special price as promised for DTT guys - £235. That is for the kit which includes - Shock, spring, spacers, C spanner and lower mounting pin. You lucky people [ US / Canada ] do NOT pay our UK vat. A Brit / Euro buyer will be paying £282. Plus carriage of course.
Rat and others who enquired - the Twinshox are nearing road trial completion ...........
Just an update on the perceived "wimpish rear end".
Here's what I did on the Oilhead BMW to brace the swing arm region on the stocker. Normally there is NOTHING on the OEM bike to add support / rigidity in this area.
All the black painted fabrication [ tubes / plate ] are what we designed to brace the rear end casings. LATER model BMWs had a very substantial subframe doing exactly this ! Maybe they were a bit concerned as well?
Looks like we might get the tank overlay done before Christmas after all.
The shape is nearly finalised now and I'm happy it does have the look of the 6 Gallon AJS 7R / Matchless G50 "TT" tank.
Adrian at Realm also has a new GRP laminator [ to make his cars ! ] and some of his time can be syphoned off for more important things, like the tank and side panels!
I've now retrieved the tank from my pal's workshop so I can put some prime time into getting the patternmaking completed. As soon as the shape is finalised and ready for moulding it's back to Realm and hopefully moulds made before Christmas.
In addition to chopping off an 1" or so along the bottom edge, I'm going to shorten it at the back by 1/2" and round off the sharp corners - an idea that didn't work !
The spare frame is now on the bench with the modified swingarm [ 2" shorter wheelbase ] and I'll figure out where I can trim the lower frame off [ just above the centre stand mounts ] and take some proper measurements for a replacement tubular frame [ Mk2 CR ]. Apart from anything else it will save about 25lbs - 30lbs of dead weight !
I'm going to use this brass Monza filler cap - mounted the other way round from pic. Highly polished and NOT chromed, just for a change !
Okay, so forgive me for just finding this one. I'm a huge fan of the xv done up in cafe racing trim, and this one is going to be the tits! Love everything. Can't believe you got that front hub. I'm a fan of the mocked up tank and don't think it looks too big at all (This coming from a guy who is in love with the early cb750k tanks though...).
And that brass filler cap?!? Are you serious? That's a great piece dude. If you ever find another I'll double your money on it! Just an amazing build that I am ashamed to have missed so much of!
Also I saw something the other day and thought of you. I live in Gulf Shores, Alabama and one of the beachhouses is named 'Beach Comber' It has a sign and everything. I'll get you a shot of it next time I'm out that way. It was all patina-ed and fatigued. A great looking sign. Anyway, amazing build thus far mate.
Jesus, I just can't get over how great that filler cap is.
Would you believe I've had that cap in my workshop / garage / loft for nearly 40 years !!
NEVER been fitted to anything as I've usually gone for chrome or alloy. Somewhere I've even got the screw neck for it ! After I took the pic - I realised it should be the other way round :-[
I've had several rethinks about the tank - and it will be pretty well the same shape and size, but I just want to get the lines and proportions a little better. In reality I'm only taking a tad off the bottom - more so at the back to give a stepped look. it's also 1/2" maybe too long. All this is subjective of course and afte I've taken it off I may well want to put it back ! Don't forget I added maybe 3" to the length of the stock tank and 2" to the depth. I've reshaped the front as the OEM was too "cruiser'ish". Losing the seam all the way round also helps I think.
Ahhha -the Beachcomber......... from a small kid I used to love spending my holiday time on the beach doing just that. When other kids were building sandcastles - I'd be off with my net, spade and bucket to see what I could find. I'd love to see the pix !!
WOW love the work and R&D your doing !! I cant believe i just found this thread.....
Any chance you have a measurement for the shock to see if it measures up for XV 750 ?
from the feedback I've had to date ALL the monoshox appear to be the same mounting length - 380mm. I've cross ref'd with other manufacturer's lists and they all give the same measurements.
BTW - there is a 25% weight saving with the RAM shocker, and that's with the full length spring !
I collected the mock up tank and some other bits from my pal's workshop as I want to get the tank patterned and ready for moulding before the Christmas.
While I'm at it, I'll finalise which seat to use - repro 7R [ Green ] or my original [ Black ] and mock up the seat support hoop to suit. I'm beefing it up as the battery will probably live up there.
I've got the spare frame on the bench now, so I can see exactly where I want to trim the lower rear subframe [ under s/a spindle ], and at the same time have a serious look at the layout for the frame for my "Mk 2" Cafe Racer. BTW - I'm even MORE unconvinced about the wisdom of chopping out the rear frame from behind the rear head. IMO.
Once the tank mock up and seat are in place I'll make templates for the side panels, then get a lump of 2" modelling foam and hack away. I'm looking for something along the lines of a Gold Star side panel / tank.
Here's a couple of pix - first one standard TR1 tank with cardboard templates to check the style - and where I am this morning [ 3 months later - arrrrgghhh] ! By the weekend I will trim the bottom of the tank edges by around 1" as it looks too "heavy" at the moment, then it's radiusing off the top rear edges on the tank - final surfacing and it's ready for primer / filler and then ready for moulding. I'll also be fitting a Brass 2 1/2" Monza filler cap and a Manx style strap - originally was going to be stainless, but might go with brass to match the cap?
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IMO.
