Zoöid Third Times a Charm CB175

grcamna5 said:
How do you and Zeke feel about how the rear shock's spring/compression rate feels at this point ?
Click to expand...
we need heavier springs


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Looking good guys. Now to make the front of the seat a little wider to match the tank. I need to take welding lessons from Zeke.
 
teazer said:
Looking good guys. Now to make the front of the seat a little wider to match the tank. I need to take welding lessons from Zeke.
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Teazer! I will tell Zeke. He is going to narrow the tank to match the seat!


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Lovely work. I am thinking of using the same method to re-enforce the swinging arm on my CD.
I have found that the tubing used for wheel barrows has an ID that matched the OD of the arms perfectly!
 
Erskine said:
Lovely work. I am thinking of using the same method to re-enforce the swinging arm on my CD.
I have found that the tubing used for wheel barrows has an ID that matched the OD of the arms perfectly!
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thank you!


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Can the rear hub brake arm operation in both directions?


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Texasstar said:
Can the rear hub brake arm operation in both directions?


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I admit I don't know your specific hub, but you'll be able to tell by the cam. It should be symmetrical, which would make the pads spread either way. Plus you have a mill and lathe ;)
 
irk miller said:
I admit I don't know your specific hub, but you'll be able to tell by the cam. It should be symmetrical, which would make the pads spread either way. Plus you have a mill and lathe ;)
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lol yes we do. Too many possibilities lol. I was wondering why they chose to pull the brake arm instead of pushing it. On the 160 the cable pulls from the top and on the 175 it pulls from the bottom. Just curious.


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The 160 arm is point up when it pulls and the 175 is pointing down when it pulls


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Texasstar said:
lol yes we do. Too many possibilities lol. I was wondering why they chose to pull the brake arm instead of pushing it. On the 160 the cable pulls from the top and on the 175 it pulls from the bottom. Just curious.
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Pushing gives it the chance to bend.


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4th late night in a row
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That's quite a jig there for checking that everything is straight and level. Rather than use a plumb bob, I use a level (digital or bubble) and a laser lever to site along the chassis/bodyline.
 
teazer said:
That's quite a jig there for checking that everything is straight and level. Rather than use a plumb bob, I use a level (digital or bubble) and a laser lever to site along the chassis/bodyline.
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we were going for plumb bob square pants :) Brian Hobbs was showing Zeke the old school way and then he pulled out his laser lever to show zeke it was true. Bill Baxter dropped by a while back and the first thing out of his mouth was do you know Teazer (real name)? So he told us some Teazer drag racing pit stories. :)

We were the inaugural bike for Hobbs frame jig he is still building for drag bikes.






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Texasstar said:
we were going for plumb bob square pants :) Brian Hobbs was showing Zeke the old school way and then he pulled out his laser lever to show zeke it was true. Bill Baxter dropped by a while back and the first thing out of his mouth was do you know Teazer (real name)? So he told us some Teazer drag racing pit stories. :)
Click to expand...


Nothing too embarrassing I hope. Maybe one about muriatic acid and a triple that melted. Bill's a good guy.
 
We are working on finishing the rear sets. The current foot pegs are just for mock up. We started with two bronze bushings inserted into a stainless piece. This was Zeke's first stainless lathe pieces. We took solid 3/8 stainless and put it into a HF bender, coped, deburred, and tacked in place.
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Next we took some stainless flat bar and polished it up. Put it in the bender, cut a triangle out so we could cope it using a rounded grinding stone.
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