03rangerxlt
Been Around the Block
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
Love it! That Magdyno looks nice!
Love it! That Magdyno looks nice!
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (1000 miles and more)
- Thread starter swan
- Start date
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
Thanks all! Another quick update, both valve seats are installed, the valve stem heights are correct, the tappet/push rod gap is .006" and the valves seat correctly!
new intake and exhaust valve seats
nice matching grind on valves
I tested the vale stem heights and tappet adjustments with weak valve springs.
Next I fitted new valve springs, installed the cylinder head and rocker cover, tightened everything down and carefully adjusted the eccentric rocker pins to obtain the correct tappet clearances.
The motor is done, so now I am moving on to fitting, shimming and timing my restored magdyno. Getting closer, but I have a crazy work week and can only sneak in a few hours this week. Sun is shining, snow is melting, spring is coming and this young man's thoughts turn to fancy motorcycles.
Thanks all! Another quick update, both valve seats are installed, the valve stem heights are correct, the tappet/push rod gap is .006" and the valves seat correctly!
new intake and exhaust valve seats
nice matching grind on valves
I tested the vale stem heights and tappet adjustments with weak valve springs.
Next I fitted new valve springs, installed the cylinder head and rocker cover, tightened everything down and carefully adjusted the eccentric rocker pins to obtain the correct tappet clearances.
The motor is done, so now I am moving on to fitting, shimming and timing my restored magdyno. Getting closer, but I have a crazy work week and can only sneak in a few hours this week. Sun is shining, snow is melting, spring is coming and this young man's thoughts turn to fancy motorcycles.
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
Congrats! Glad you crossed that hurdle.
One of these days I want to go back and copy every one of your stunning pictures and make a slideshow from begining to ultimate ending.
Congrats! Glad you crossed that hurdle.
One of these days I want to go back and copy every one of your stunning pictures and make a slideshow from begining to ultimate ending.
stroker crazy
crazy as a fox
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
Swan has set a standard for workmanship and documentation that we can attempt to emulate, but few will approach.
Crazy
Swan has set a standard for workmanship and documentation that we can attempt to emulate, but few will approach.
Crazy
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
Thanks SC and HD, you guys are no slackers.
I am so close..... had a killer week at work so did not spend any time working on my bike until last night. The last of the parts have arrived and I chased the treads on the magdyno armature with a die and fit a new pinion nut. It did the trick. Spent several hours last night and this morning timing the ignition. I used a degree wheel on the primary side, held with rare earth magnets and it worked beautifully. I used a dial indicator gauge to find absolute Top Dead Center (TDC) and then set the points to just about open at 37 degrees Before TDC. Triple checked my settings and they are good.
I plumbed in the rocker oil feed with OEM herringbone oil line and after searching through every box in the shop and my house for the missing metal oil feed pipe, I gave up and bought a length of 3/16" brake pipe, cut the flanges off and bent it to fit. It too works well. I flushed the oil bag one last time in the parts washer and it was spotless. Filled it with oil and kicked her over several dozen times to get the oil flowing.
I bought and paid for a compression release cable on E-bay from a yet unnamed large Brit Bike parts supplier more than a month ago. I got an e-mail from the seller saying they were out of stock of the item. What the hell? If a seller lists an item on an E-bay auction with images, you should be able to send the item. They offered to send one once the get stock again, I asked for a refund several days ago and have yet to get my money back. I am 0-3 from this vendor. Instead I bought a cable from British Only and had it in two days and it works well. As long as I am on a first-world problem rant, I went to another vendor with whom I had a problem a couple of years ago. I bought some hardware, a battery carrier and a magneto strap. The screws on the magneto strap do not fit my mag and I cannot identify what tread standard they are, The powdercoat has drips and flaws too. It is going back. Don't get me started on the new Photobucket site either....
On a positive note, I did however find a light bulb holder for my chronometric speedometer from Domiracer. Cheap and works great.
I checked and tightened all the bike's nut, bolts and screws and thought it is time to start it. When I added fuel to the carb it started leaking from the bottom, so I pulled it to discover the problem and a major set back. The threads on the jet block are stripped beyond repair so I cannot tighten the main jet holder enough to stop gas from leaking. Of course the stripped jet block is a rare size and not available from anyone, so I will post a WTB on all the forums and scour e-bay to try to find one so I can start my bike. If anyone has or knows of a source for an Amal 389 jet block with a 1.156" diameter bore please let me know. Please....
This is why I am in a surly mood, I am so close to starting this beast and must wait. The snow is melting, the days are getting longer and warmer and I am itching to finally ride my Goldie. I guess this means I finally have to polish my primary cover this week. Time to walk away, go down the street for some dirty rock and roll and a pint. Stay tuned...
Thanks SC and HD, you guys are no slackers.
I am so close..... had a killer week at work so did not spend any time working on my bike until last night. The last of the parts have arrived and I chased the treads on the magdyno armature with a die and fit a new pinion nut. It did the trick. Spent several hours last night and this morning timing the ignition. I used a degree wheel on the primary side, held with rare earth magnets and it worked beautifully. I used a dial indicator gauge to find absolute Top Dead Center (TDC) and then set the points to just about open at 37 degrees Before TDC. Triple checked my settings and they are good.
I plumbed in the rocker oil feed with OEM herringbone oil line and after searching through every box in the shop and my house for the missing metal oil feed pipe, I gave up and bought a length of 3/16" brake pipe, cut the flanges off and bent it to fit. It too works well. I flushed the oil bag one last time in the parts washer and it was spotless. Filled it with oil and kicked her over several dozen times to get the oil flowing.
I bought and paid for a compression release cable on E-bay from a yet unnamed large Brit Bike parts supplier more than a month ago. I got an e-mail from the seller saying they were out of stock of the item. What the hell? If a seller lists an item on an E-bay auction with images, you should be able to send the item. They offered to send one once the get stock again, I asked for a refund several days ago and have yet to get my money back. I am 0-3 from this vendor. Instead I bought a cable from British Only and had it in two days and it works well. As long as I am on a first-world problem rant, I went to another vendor with whom I had a problem a couple of years ago. I bought some hardware, a battery carrier and a magneto strap. The screws on the magneto strap do not fit my mag and I cannot identify what tread standard they are, The powdercoat has drips and flaws too. It is going back. Don't get me started on the new Photobucket site either....
On a positive note, I did however find a light bulb holder for my chronometric speedometer from Domiracer. Cheap and works great.
I checked and tightened all the bike's nut, bolts and screws and thought it is time to start it. When I added fuel to the carb it started leaking from the bottom, so I pulled it to discover the problem and a major set back. The threads on the jet block are stripped beyond repair so I cannot tighten the main jet holder enough to stop gas from leaking. Of course the stripped jet block is a rare size and not available from anyone, so I will post a WTB on all the forums and scour e-bay to try to find one so I can start my bike. If anyone has or knows of a source for an Amal 389 jet block with a 1.156" diameter bore please let me know. Please....
This is why I am in a surly mood, I am so close to starting this beast and must wait. The snow is melting, the days are getting longer and warmer and I am itching to finally ride my Goldie. I guess this means I finally have to polish my primary cover this week. Time to walk away, go down the street for some dirty rock and roll and a pint. Stay tuned...
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
You know I am just getting back into BSA's so my part resources are minimal at best...
But what about here?
http://www.groveclassicmotorcycles.co.uk/carburettor-22-c.asp
4 pages of carb parts listed, might be worth a call.
You know I am just getting back into BSA's so my part resources are minimal at best...
But what about here?
http://www.groveclassicmotorcycles.co.uk/carburettor-22-c.asp
4 pages of carb parts listed, might be worth a call.
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
Thanks all for the replies, links, suggestions and encouragement. It is snowing today but I am anxious to start my bike. I did meet with Skip my machinist, but he was not very optimistic because the block is pot metal and a weird 19TPI thread standard (not BSW, BSF, BA or BP) so I would have to find the appropriate tap.
The good news is I found a good quality used and correct sized jet block from Jockey journal member theAppleknocker. It is on the way and I threw in a little extra cash to buy him a beer. Onwards...
Thanks all for the replies, links, suggestions and encouragement. It is snowing today but I am anxious to start my bike. I did meet with Skip my machinist, but he was not very optimistic because the block is pot metal and a weird 19TPI thread standard (not BSW, BSF, BA or BP) so I would have to find the appropriate tap.
The good news is I found a good quality used and correct sized jet block from Jockey journal member theAppleknocker. It is on the way and I threw in a little extra cash to buy him a beer. Onwards...
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
A quick little update while I wait for my carb jet block to arrive. I ordered several bags of BSC/CEI hardware from Nooky's Nuts in the UK. Good people to deal with, quick shipping, good price and nice hardware. Four large bags of several hundred assorted bolts, nuts, washers and spring washers will serve as my "hardware store" and spares in my bike's tool kit for roadside repairs. With British Standard Whitworth hardware, you cannot simply walk in to a Ace hardware store and buy it, you need to order it. So to preemptively avoid any down time this spring and summer, I stocked up. I also bought a pair of shock absorber spanners, one of which works well on my primary side crankshaft nut.
My bike came without a head steady running from the frame to the cylinder head. I mistakenly ordered a DBD one which was too small so I fabricated, primed, painted and installed a new longer one. The hardware I ordered with the DBD steady did not fit either so I hit up my new store of hardware and found the correct three bolts, washers and hardware. I am getting older and wiser...
I just received the updated version of the "Gold Star Buyer's Guide" by Charles Falco in the mail yesterday. Had I had this book at the beginning of the project, it would have answered many of my questions and avoided headaches and confusion. It is clear, concise, well written, researched and illustrated and is a must have if you are considering buying a Goldie.
I have a very busy weekend at work, but I am going to try to find some free time to fix my carb and start this beast. If I cannot, I will have some time off next week to get her going.
A quick little update while I wait for my carb jet block to arrive. I ordered several bags of BSC/CEI hardware from Nooky's Nuts in the UK. Good people to deal with, quick shipping, good price and nice hardware. Four large bags of several hundred assorted bolts, nuts, washers and spring washers will serve as my "hardware store" and spares in my bike's tool kit for roadside repairs. With British Standard Whitworth hardware, you cannot simply walk in to a Ace hardware store and buy it, you need to order it. So to preemptively avoid any down time this spring and summer, I stocked up. I also bought a pair of shock absorber spanners, one of which works well on my primary side crankshaft nut.
My bike came without a head steady running from the frame to the cylinder head. I mistakenly ordered a DBD one which was too small so I fabricated, primed, painted and installed a new longer one. The hardware I ordered with the DBD steady did not fit either so I hit up my new store of hardware and found the correct three bolts, washers and hardware. I am getting older and wiser...
I just received the updated version of the "Gold Star Buyer's Guide" by Charles Falco in the mail yesterday. Had I had this book at the beginning of the project, it would have answered many of my questions and avoided headaches and confusion. It is clear, concise, well written, researched and illustrated and is a must have if you are considering buying a Goldie.
I have a very busy weekend at work, but I am going to try to find some free time to fix my carb and start this beast. If I cannot, I will have some time off next week to get her going.
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
Going to have to create a new Bike of the Millennium contest to suit this one. Just absolutely epic not only in the detail paid to the restoration work, but the incredible resource you've created by documenting every step so carefully.
Just don't ever let your Photobucket account go stale - or maybe we'll have to get your pics uploaded to the server here and I'll update all the links somehow
Need this preserved for generations to follow.
Going to have to create a new Bike of the Millennium contest to suit this one. Just absolutely epic not only in the detail paid to the restoration work, but the incredible resource you've created by documenting every step so carefully.
Just don't ever let your Photobucket account go stale - or maybe we'll have to get your pics uploaded to the server here and I'll update all the links somehow
Need this preserved for generations to follow.Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
Thank you Tim. I am so glad this thread is on DTT because my entire build thread with all the comments from veteran Gold Star builders, restorers and riders on britbike.com was erased two days ago by a software glitch along with many other invaluable posts from others. I can copy and repost my words and images from this site, but what is lost is the sage advice and wisdom from other veteran BB members who know infinitely more than I do about Goldies. As I have said all along, my documentation will help the next person avoid the pitfalls, problems and mistakes of my build. We all dream of a barn find of a rare, desirable and valuable bike, and it still does not seem real to me.
I simply have been too busy with work and wrenching to sit down and restore the BB thread at the moment, for it will take hours and hours to rebuild it from internet archives, but it will never be the same as it was.
Anyways, I have been quadruple checking my valve tolerances, clearances, valve opening and closing timing, mag timing, etc and am ready to fire my bike up, but am still having carb issues. The aftermarket Webco extension carb cover that came with my bike was held in place by allen screws, which always vexed me but I failed to investigate their thread standards. Well today I cleaned the carb again and tightened the allen bolts on the cover only to have them all spin. F#$k, DPO used the wrong thread standard. Pissing gas everywhere so I could not start the bike. I have a back up 389/004 carb body but after 3 hours of searching I could not find its original Amal cover. I will be in Minneapolis and Rochester tomorrow so I will buzz over to Mitch Klempf's and buy a cover for the carb and try and start the bike tomorrow night. I am so close, trying to be patient, but have been so overworked lately I have little patience and am itching to ride. The good news is I have several days off this weekend, including a rare Sunday, to get the Goldie going, clean the Triton and get my restored CB400f and my other CB400f ready to sell. Spring is almost here. Soon...
Thank you Tim. I am so glad this thread is on DTT because my entire build thread with all the comments from veteran Gold Star builders, restorers and riders on britbike.com was erased two days ago by a software glitch along with many other invaluable posts from others. I can copy and repost my words and images from this site, but what is lost is the sage advice and wisdom from other veteran BB members who know infinitely more than I do about Goldies. As I have said all along, my documentation will help the next person avoid the pitfalls, problems and mistakes of my build. We all dream of a barn find of a rare, desirable and valuable bike, and it still does not seem real to me.
I simply have been too busy with work and wrenching to sit down and restore the BB thread at the moment, for it will take hours and hours to rebuild it from internet archives, but it will never be the same as it was.
Anyways, I have been quadruple checking my valve tolerances, clearances, valve opening and closing timing, mag timing, etc and am ready to fire my bike up, but am still having carb issues. The aftermarket Webco extension carb cover that came with my bike was held in place by allen screws, which always vexed me but I failed to investigate their thread standards. Well today I cleaned the carb again and tightened the allen bolts on the cover only to have them all spin. F#$k, DPO used the wrong thread standard. Pissing gas everywhere so I could not start the bike. I have a back up 389/004 carb body but after 3 hours of searching I could not find its original Amal cover. I will be in Minneapolis and Rochester tomorrow so I will buzz over to Mitch Klempf's and buy a cover for the carb and try and start the bike tomorrow night. I am so close, trying to be patient, but have been so overworked lately I have little patience and am itching to ride. The good news is I have several days off this weekend, including a rare Sunday, to get the Goldie going, clean the Triton and get my restored CB400f and my other CB400f ready to sell. Spring is almost here. Soon...
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
Thanks Maritime.
I have been moving forward anxiously wanting to start my bike for the first time, but nothing is easy. I spent many, many hours quadruple checking the tolerences, settings and timing of the camshafts, pushrods, valve train, magneto etc. My valves were checked with a degree wheel and Skip my machinist brought over his leakdown tester. The motor passed his test but there is a slight leak past the rings, but this may be OK since the motor has not been run nor have the rings and cylinder been bedded in. I will test again after it has been run in.
Skip, the man with all the cool tools.
The original carb was giving me grief but I had another 389/004 body which I picked up from E-bay last year for cheap to swap and I picked up a standard cover and screws from Mitch Klempf on my way back from Minneapolis a couple of days ago. Somewhere in a box I have a vapor blasted standard cover, but cannot find after 3 hours of searching. The new carb body is out of round and the throttle slide binds up when I tighten the main jet holder tight enough to stop gas from leaking out the bottom. I met with Skip again and we worked on it and checked the jet block for roundness in his lathe. We rigged up an external gas tank and long fuel line and again gas pissed out of the carb. We suspect the float and valve are not set right and gas is flooding the bowl and flowing out the jet holes in the front of the carb. The float was left in my parts washer for 30 minutes and it still floated with no liquid inside. We switched fuel valves but it still pissed gas. Worn fuel valve seat? Monoblocs' float height can only be changed by adding shims or washer beneath the valve holder. We added a drop of solder to the float tang and filed it flat to lower the float height. I eventually drilled and tapped the original carb body to accept 10-32 screws and rebuilt the original carb with the new cover.
With this set up the slide functioned better, but still dripped gas from the main jet holder washer when loose enough to raise and lower the throttle slide. After many, many attempts, adjustments, rechecking valve openings and closings, magneto timing, etc we still could not get her to fire up. We have ignition, compression, but cannot get the right fuel/air mixture from a leaky carb.
I am stubborn and cheap, but after spending more than two days of my life fighting a 50 year old pot metal carb, spilling and smelling gas and getting nowhere, I threw in the towel and ordered a new and complete Amal 389 from Amal UK this morning. At least a have a pile of spares for it. It reminds of George Washington's fabled axe which is original except the handle broke so it was replaced and the head cracked and it too was replaced. I guess I finally will have to polish the primary cover while I wait for my new carb to arrive.
The good news is the rain is melting all the snow and washing the sand and salt from the streets. I spent a full day last week cleaning, tweeking, changing fluids and tuning my Triton. I was going to buy new tires for her, but that money went to a the new GS carb. All she needs is a sunny day and some warmer weather and I am ready to go.
Thanks Maritime.
I have been moving forward anxiously wanting to start my bike for the first time, but nothing is easy. I spent many, many hours quadruple checking the tolerences, settings and timing of the camshafts, pushrods, valve train, magneto etc. My valves were checked with a degree wheel and Skip my machinist brought over his leakdown tester. The motor passed his test but there is a slight leak past the rings, but this may be OK since the motor has not been run nor have the rings and cylinder been bedded in. I will test again after it has been run in.
Skip, the man with all the cool tools.
The original carb was giving me grief but I had another 389/004 body which I picked up from E-bay last year for cheap to swap and I picked up a standard cover and screws from Mitch Klempf on my way back from Minneapolis a couple of days ago. Somewhere in a box I have a vapor blasted standard cover, but cannot find after 3 hours of searching. The new carb body is out of round and the throttle slide binds up when I tighten the main jet holder tight enough to stop gas from leaking out the bottom. I met with Skip again and we worked on it and checked the jet block for roundness in his lathe. We rigged up an external gas tank and long fuel line and again gas pissed out of the carb. We suspect the float and valve are not set right and gas is flooding the bowl and flowing out the jet holes in the front of the carb. The float was left in my parts washer for 30 minutes and it still floated with no liquid inside. We switched fuel valves but it still pissed gas. Worn fuel valve seat? Monoblocs' float height can only be changed by adding shims or washer beneath the valve holder. We added a drop of solder to the float tang and filed it flat to lower the float height. I eventually drilled and tapped the original carb body to accept 10-32 screws and rebuilt the original carb with the new cover.
With this set up the slide functioned better, but still dripped gas from the main jet holder washer when loose enough to raise and lower the throttle slide. After many, many attempts, adjustments, rechecking valve openings and closings, magneto timing, etc we still could not get her to fire up. We have ignition, compression, but cannot get the right fuel/air mixture from a leaky carb.
I am stubborn and cheap, but after spending more than two days of my life fighting a 50 year old pot metal carb, spilling and smelling gas and getting nowhere, I threw in the towel and ordered a new and complete Amal 389 from Amal UK this morning. At least a have a pile of spares for it. It reminds of George Washington's fabled axe which is original except the handle broke so it was replaced and the head cracked and it too was replaced. I guess I finally will have to polish the primary cover while I wait for my new carb to arrive.
The good news is the rain is melting all the snow and washing the sand and salt from the streets. I spent a full day last week cleaning, tweeking, changing fluids and tuning my Triton. I was going to buy new tires for her, but that money went to a the new GS carb. All she needs is a sunny day and some warmer weather and I am ready to go.
montessa172
Been Around the Block
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
There is a gentleman in Ontario (Canada) that's resleeves worn/out of round amals, I can get his contact info from my dad if you think that carb is worth repairing..
There is a gentleman in Ontario (Canada) that's resleeves worn/out of round amals, I can get his contact info from my dad if you think that carb is worth repairing..
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
Around 10% or more leakdown is pretty normal on a 'brand new' motor that hasn't been run.
Check after 3~500 miles, you'll probably have less than 5% when everything is bedded in
It won't be zero unless you use total seal rings
Around 10% or more leakdown is pretty normal on a 'brand new' motor that hasn't been run.
Check after 3~500 miles, you'll probably have less than 5% when everything is bedded in
It won't be zero unless you use total seal rings
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Nearly done...)
Thanks guys. I am familiar with Lund Machining and their carb re-sleeve process, but the main problem is with jet block to slide tolerence. When I tighten the main jet holder tight enough to stop fuel from leaking, it pulls the jet block out of alignment. Trust, I tried everything and buying a new $90 jet block, $20 valve seat and a $100 re-sleeve for a 50 year old carb body is past the point of return. It was cheaper to buy the new carb.
Thanks guys. I am familiar with Lund Machining and their carb re-sleeve process, but the main problem is with jet block to slide tolerence. When I tighten the main jet holder tight enough to stop fuel from leaking, it pulls the jet block out of alignment. Trust, I tried everything and buying a new $90 jet block, $20 valve seat and a $100 re-sleeve for a 50 year old carb body is past the point of return. It was cheaper to buy the new carb.
