1970 Honda CB350 Cafe - My first bike and build.

Sonreir said:
You can get a complete stainless caphead kit from eBay for about $40. Definitely worth the money.

:) ^^^^^^ This... I did and very much worth it.
 
I probably will swap them out with a kit like that, but I'm watching my dollars right now. Its way too easy to get carried away in upgrades with ebay :)
 
Besides the gaskets... the carbs are cleaning up nicely. Pieces all look good. Sent everything through the ultrasonic cleaner for about 15 minutes. Hit them with the compressed air. Everything put back in. Since I had some gasket sealant, I put the carb gasket back in place sitting on top of fresh sealant. I believe I made a great seal with it.
 
I'm curious too. I think it will be ok. The package says excellent oil and fluid resistance.

Guys, I think I am missing part of my clutch actuator. Is there suppose to be a washer with 3 ball bearings that is sandwhiched in the clutch actuator housing? Also, I think there is suppose to be a large ball bearing in that pocket that goes again the clutch rod that i'm missing as well.

I am going by some diagrams I found online.
 
Yup. You're definitely going to need those.

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Great Picture!! Haven't seen this one. Yep, I am missing numbers 10 and 21. Darn it!...this restore would have been worlds easier if I bought a complete bike.

Thanks Sonreir
 
The clutch springs keep the tension once the whole thing is assembled and in place. When it's taken apart, the ball bearing can, and often does, come out very easily.
 
I guess thats where I'm confused. When that clutch rod is pushed in, I thought there would be a spring or something that pushed it back toward the actuator, instead, the clutch rod goes in to a dead stop.
 
On the other side of things, the clutch rod fits into #11 in this diagram which is, in turn, held in place by #8. #8 is secured by a series of bolts and clutch springs to #4.

The clutch rod is not actually coming to a dead stop. It just feels like it because a lot of pressure is required to compress the clutch springs.

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THink i have an extra one of those #10 parts if you need it i will dig it out and send it to ya you can prob get a ball bearing at any hardware store. PM me with your address I'll try to get it out tomorrow.
 
Candy and progress..

Carbs have both been thoroughly cleaned. Nice and shiny inside and out. Feel real good about them. Decided to paint the top covers. Wanted to change up the color scheme up a little. Not positive I like the copper look yet. I'll give it some time to see if it grows on me.

Also, my $8 intakes arrived from ebay. So on went the Carbs! Does everything look right to you guys? I wasn’t sure how the linkage between the choke is suppose to be bent, but its on there and works as it should.


Lastly, a picture of my coils. Whatcha think? Salvageable? Shall I clean them up and see what happens? Oh, one more quick question. Does anyone have a simple wiring diagram for kick only?

It occurs to me that I have the starter hole to plug. I had a couple ideas about this. First, I know there are a couple guys that make "plugs" that fit inside, but I had a couple more ideas.

I could use some old laptop batteries, remote control car batteries, or just a stack of lithium ion batteries, and create a cylindrical battery housing held in place by the old starter housing. I thought it would be pretty cool to store my battery inside the old starter housing.

I worry though about the heat the engine will give off and may make the batteries explode. Just a thought.

Another idea was to get some pipe and using the starter housing to create a new toolbox location. Have my tools hidden inside what appears to be a starter.

Idea 3, paint a thermos, use starter bracket and store my coffee for the road. ;D


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Linkage between the two carbs is clocked differently and the choke lever may be on backwards?

Something like this should be right:
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Hmmm, maybe it is on backwards. Right now it doesn't seem to cause any conflict. It swings freely and theres plenty of distance from the throttle connection. Even wide open, it would be ok. I'll flip it if I need too.
 
Yup. Not imperative, just letting you know.

It could cause some problems depending on how your breather hose is routed, however. Also, make sure the choke lever still "clicks" into position. Mine was installed incorrectly when I got my bike and the choke would randomly close while I was riding. It was pretty annoying, to say the least.
 
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