1974 CB360 Fallin' Ditch Hell Ride

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
It really isn't needed plus many of the tiny pumps are not rated above 150f~175f and you WILL be feeding it oil around 200f~250f (it isn't really cost effective for high temp pump or it needs too many amps to get decent flow)
Use good oil, semi or full synthetic and do oil mods I've listed multiple times.
Use either 10W/40 or 5W/40 full synthetic JASO Spec oil
DO NOT USE 20W/50 - EVER cam bearings can seize in as little as 50 miles at highway speeds (70mph+)
Gun drill cam, open oil feed 'jets' modify oil transfer piece, good for sustained 11,000+rpm - 115mph
 
crazypj said:
It really isn't needed plus many of the tiny pumps are not rated above 150f~175f and you WILL be feeding it oil around 200f~250f (it isn't really cost effective for high temp pump or it needs too many amps to get decent flow)
Use good oil, semi or full synthetic and do oil mods I've listed multiple times.
Use either 10W/40 or 5W/40 full synthetic JASO Spec oil
DO NOT USE 20W/50 - EVER cam bearings can seize in as little as 50 miles at highway speeds (70mph+)
Gun drill cam, open oil feed 'jets' modify oil transfer piece, good for sustained 11,000+rpm - 115mph
I've stalked your username across multiple sites for years while building my 360 - I did all the things you talked about aside from gun drilling the cam (don't have the equipment for that) last year the bike caught fire (while I was riding, lithium battery exploded under my ass) and it was all I could do to fix her and keep riding through the summer. Bike is now torn down and I am doing the 378 with gs850 pistons, and have since been stalking everyone else who so much as mentions such a mod, thus, I am now here
 

irk miller

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Bought a stock set of carbs modified by PJ from a gracious fellow member. We'll see how it does. I never really felt like the Mikunis were right.

PJ, I seem to remember you talking about your modified stock carbs on a (yours?) 378 in another thread. I hope I'm right about that.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
In my opinion modified stock are way superior for road use (and not just because I modify them) I've tried Mikuni's several times but just can't get them to work as well on an engine that needs to pull from idle to 11,000 rpm. Using 26mm works but acceleration from 7k is slower than with 30's,(but then you lose bottom end) 32's are just too big until you have a 13,000rpm motor that doesn't go below 6K. The main advantage of the CV is it doesn't care what you think you want and gives you what you need
 

cxman

Active Member
i would put a set of baby 28s up against any 360 with cvs

either on the road or on the dyno better horsepower and torque if tuned properly
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Not across the entire range plus you have to be a lot more careful opening throttle or you will get flat spots when air isn't moving fast enough to pick up fuel.
It's an incredibly well known phenomena.(since at least 1950's)
Mikuni's will work lot better on four stroke with much smaller cut-away, 2.5 doesn't give enough air velocity when throttle is opened quick from idle so crazy rich 'primary choke' is used. Two strokes can mix fuel and air in crankcase but four-stroke doesn't have volume or time to do the same so you use a smaller carb bore (26mm works better than 28 in most cases) The Kei-Hin 'oval bore' carbs work better as they keep velocity higher, inverted pear shape would probably be even better but need more work on needle and needle jet, air passages, etc.
Because of the issue I've just had with JBM diaphragms, I'll probably be returning to Mikuni VM tinkering after I get another 4 sets of CV carbs done.
Even then I will still recommend CV over VM on 360 or 378.
If I can't get them to run at least as well as a stock 360 I'll just stick with stock CV's and put Mikuni's back on the shelf for another 5~10 yrs. Basically, the VM is too crude even if it is simpler to have only pilot and main jets. 3 jet Kei-Hin can control mixture more accurately even if it is a PITA without stock airbox
32mm VM,s worked great on my XS650/800 after I made new emulsion tubes and bought about $100.00 wort of different main and pilot jets, but, the stock CV carbs on XS 650 are weird and horrible so it was worth the hassle
As you pointed out several months ago, CX has hig compression and heavy flywheels, you can make them 'spit back' real easy but also, when they are wound up the weight keeps them turning over.
 

irk miller

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Messing with timing, I thought I’d show off my favorite tool for static timing. It’s a voltage tester that comes with a threaded cap. The cap shares the same thread pattern as the points cover screw. Makes for an easy time...




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trek97

Active Member
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Well isn't that just neater than shit.
Will it plug into a Fluke? Where did you find it?

I found the 4 headers make a perfect meter bench when checking static time.

 

trek97

Active Member
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irk miller said:
I think I got it from a BMW parts house, or eBay. This one is the Hahn + Kolb version.
Betting I know a really good dude who could turn a few of those out to fit Fluke meter leads.
You know, to pass out to his buddies. ;)
 

irk miller

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trek97 said:
Betting I know a really good dude who could turn a few of those out to fit Fluke meter leads.
You know, to pass out to his buddies. ;)
I guess I'm not getting why you would want to. I bought this for my tail bag, for testing when out on the road or trails. It has a sharp tip that you can poke into insulation and the light comes on to tell you if you have power. The yellow wire is your negative. Plugging into a Fluke seems redundant. It already has feature to tell you if there's voltage.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Probably just likes the idea of a screw in fitting for ground side? It could be handy when troubleshooting as well. Alligator clip often 'falls off' while your moving around
 

trek97

Active Member
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Yea the copper negative part looks to thread into hole. If it just had a female end i could plug my meter lead into it and not mess w clip jumpers.

Ill get a pic when I get to work on Monday. As my home fluke has cheapy leads that dont actually come apart to swap out the ends. like my good leads do.
 

irk miller

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trek97 said:
Yea the copper negative part looks to thread into hole. If it just had a female end i could plug my meter lead into it and not mess w clip jumpers.

Ill get a pic when I get to work on Monday. As my home fluke has cheapy leads that dont actually come apart to swap out the ends. like my good leads do.
I still don't understand why you would want this to plug into a Fluke or any electronic meter. This is nothing more than a +/- make the light go on kind of thing. It tests a line to confirm power. That's why it works for static timing.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
We have an electronics and general 'junk' shop down here, (Skycraft) It's dead easy to make whatever leads you want. (gold plated contacts with silver plated copper wire, silicon insulation, etc) The ends are standard 'banana' plugs, the screw in part is easy to make with whatever thread you want Silver has best conductivity but copper comes second, both oxidise though. If you need specific threaded ends let me know. Copper is pretty horrid to machine but not impossible. I may make some for myself with 5mm and 6mm thread as it will be a lot more convenient when checking things, took way longer than it should have to re-set timing on the T305 Friday - 500 mile service/check over. I wish I had thought of making screw in leads 30+ yrs ago when I was doing this full time ::)
 

whynot

~~~If it ain't raining, I'm riding~~{iii}?~~prost~
irk miller said:
Messing with timing, I thought I’d show off my favorite tool for static timing. It’s a voltage tester that comes with a threaded cap. The cap shares the same thread pattern as the points cover screw. Makes for an easy time...




Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON


I have one of those............and a Fluke.
 

irk miller

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Me too. I get having a lead that screws in, though. I was confused why get this thing to plug into the Fluke since it doesn't do anything the Fluke can do better. You can get leads with a terminal connector already. They also have leads that fit into bullet connectors.

 

trek97

Active Member
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irk miller said:
Me too. I get having a lead that screws in, though. I was confused why get this thing to plug into the Fluke since it doesn't do anything the Fluke can do better. You can get leads with a terminal connector already. They also have leads that fit into bullet connectors.
My meter at work has the bullet style leads w ends that can be swapped out for different applications. I just need a cool copper one w the threads on it that would plug into the leads. Thats what I thought you had, something similar. As I didn't notice the little light in it.
 

ryan_289

Member
I really like the build. I just bought a cb360 from a guy at work. The backroad/forest service road theme is where I was leaning. Your fab skills are amazing, mine will not be quite as custom!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
ryan_289 said:
I really like the build. I just bought a cb360 from a guy at work. The backroad/forest service road theme is where I was leaning. Your fab skills are amazing, mine will not be quite as custom!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Thanks, man. I just sold this one at Mid-O. It was a fun scoot.


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