1974 Honda CL360 barn find

This seems a little risky and complicated. Is it really necessary if I do the transfer piece mod?
You'll be fine. Maybe if you were going to take your bike to track days and run it hard it could be beneficial, but for puttering around and general riding you'll be ok.
 
I did the transfer piece mod last night as well as the mod to radius the filter cap. One other step I added was to expand the first coil of the transfer piece spring so that it would seat tightly on the transfer piece ID. This improves the oil pathway clearance while also ensuring that the spring is fully seated on the smaller lip. The first coil is now snug in the ID, and I can install it fully by rotating it into position.

I'm really not at all happy by the amount of friction on the outside of the transfer piece -- it feels positively gritty. I understand that it should be a tight fit to prevent seepage, but I'm somewhat concerned that if it doesn't move freely it might get pushed back and hung up -- not in full contact with the filter cap.

20240921_160257.jpg


20240923_201418.jpg
 
Bottom half of crankcase is done. Top half is disassembled and washed. Bead blast tomorrow. Then ready to start assembling everything.

Screenshot_20240927_211255_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20240927_211304_Gallery.jpg
 
The shift drum stopper was kinda grindy, and on inspection I can see it is worn. Should this be replaced?

Screenshot_20240928_152254_Gallery.jpg
 
Outside ball bearings on the crankshaft are rumbly. I need to replace them while I'm in here. Any tips on a good source? The stator side looks like an off the shelf bearing, but the crank output side has the hole in the outer race for the alignment dowel.
 
Bearings actually seem incredibly hard to find. Maybe I'll just stick with the ones I got.
 
try David Silver Spares usa for the bearings.. they have just about everything you can think of.. I use them a lot for parts I need
 
GS850 pistons poke out of the bore about .031. For optimal squish I need a copper gasket in the .070-.075 range. I have a message in to Copper Gaskets Unlimited to see what they can do.

Screenshot_20240929_172455_Gallery.jpg
 
He only has .063 or .080 gasket material in this range.

Without base gasket they come above the deck 060. I'll need a copper base gasket and head gasket to get me to a combined gasket thickness of .100 (ideally @ .060 below and .040 above).
 
He only has .063 or .080 gasket material in this range.

Without base gasket they come above the deck 060. I'll need a copper base gasket and head gasket to get me to a combined gasket thickness of .100 (ideally @ .060 below and .040 above).
I know that's what we did w/ mine. Copper base gasket below and regular head gasket up top.
 
I know that's what we did w/ mine. Copper base gasket below and regular head gasket up top.
The bore on the stock head gasket is big enough to accommodate the larger pistons?

He has .063 and .042 material. Doing copper on the top might help with heat dissipation, but would add $50 cost to the project.
 
The bore on the stock head gasket is big enough to accommodate the larger pistons?

He has .063 and .042 material. Doing copper on the top might help with heat dissipation, but would add $50 cost to the project.
I'm sorry, Jon, I was mistaken. Had to go through my Hedgehog thread to "remember" things. We used a stock base gasket then used a 1.04mm copper head gasket. I do remember that the bore on the head gasket wasn't 100% right and we did a bit of work w/ a file to get thing to where we were happy w/ the clearance.
 
I'm sorry, Jon, I was mistaken. Had to go through my Hedgehog thread to "remember" things. We used a stock base gasket then used a 1.04mm copper head gasket. I do remember that the bore on the head gasket wasn't 100% right and we did a bit of work w/ a file to get thing to where we were happy w/ the clearance.
OK. Thanks for the clarification.

I think I'm going to use the .063 copper base gasket to get my pistons at basically zero-deck, then the .042 copper head gasket.
 
I can tell you we had no trouble w the thing. I was really surprised how different from original it sounded when we first got it started. Admittedly, it had been some time since I'd heard it run, but it seemed to me that the sound was decidedly deeper and stronger. When I got it done I knew I should have listened to my heart and, midstream in the project, changed to more of a tracker style that would have been more senior friendly. I'm sure it didn't have more than four hours run time on the 378cc build. AND I bet that it's still in that stage. The woman I sold it to was more of a collector and took it home, parked it in a corner of her barn, and it's probably still sitting there. Pennsylvania has some very strict vehicle inspection regulations and I told her she wouldn't get it through their inspection; said she didn't care and bought it anyway.
 
Back
Top Bottom