1977 BMW R100/7 Sarcoplasmic Cow Hellride

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
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I’m still fiddling with this rear fender trying to get it right. I think I finally have it sorted. To get it right, I pulled the shock and dropped the bike to full bump, then marked the edges to match the wheel. In doing so, I also figured out that the hoop was too steep, so I dropped it about 2in.

I also got the light back on it. There’s thoughts it may be too big for this version of the bike, but honestly I like a bigger light.




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Hurco550

Keep er' Between the ditches
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the light is slightly big imho, but I'd like to see if the front fender helps with proportions

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irk miller

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Hurco550 said:
the light is slightly big imho, but I'd like to see if the front fender helps with proportions

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It's actually smaller than stock. LOL.
 

Hurco550

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irk miller said:
It's actually smaller than stock. LOL.
Ha, bmw did like big headlights eh. Maybe it just looks a bit far forward without the gauges behind it?

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irk miller

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Hurco550 said:
Ha, bmw did like big headlights eh. Maybe it just looks a bit far forward without the gauges behind it?

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The stock gauges actually don't fit without lifting them up a bunch. They barely fit with the VZ triple, which had 1.5 times the offset.
 

irk miller

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Hurco550 said:
the light is slightly big imho, but I'd like to see if the front fender helps with proportions

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A little better, eh? This one is 6v, so I either need to convert or find a 12v similar. I have a Vetter light coming to me, which is much the same shape but larger.


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1fasgsxr

Active Member
Fender is looking much better....there is something about the tank and seat that don't look right to me. Looks like ther is a peak right where the 2 meet. May just be the camera playing tricks.
 

irk miller

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1fasgsxr said:
Fender is looking much better....there is something about the tank and seat that don't look right to me. Looks like ther is a peak right where the 2 meet. May just be the camera playing tricks.
It's just a seat pan. I haven't made the padding yet.
 

irk miller

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Well, there's no love for my big light but I put it back on. The little light just didn't look right with the gauges. I'm still going to try a Vetter light, but for now the big light remains. I actually like it, despite (or because of) it looking like 1935 Chevy truck headlight.



The seat pan is complete. Like all of my seats, I mounted it by a GSXR pillion seat quick release lock. The front of the seat slides into the round tube on the backbone of the frame via a machined delrin cup.









Just a reminder: We are making a Bates Desert Sled style seat. Unlike most Bates seats, mine is a bit more molded, particularly over the fender. The bates seat typically has a flat sheet pan that is bent to go over the fender and exposing the sides. I've also rolled my edges so I have an extra inch for electronics. It's not much, but I at least want a little air gap.

 

Hurco550

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I like that headlight much more better with the gauges over it

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irk miller

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Hurco550 said:
I like that headlight much more better with the gauges over it

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Big difference, isn't it? I think it was the size and the bulbous shape out in space that made it look so out of place. Once the fender goes back on, hopefully it makes even more sense. A completed seat should balance all that out, too.
 

Luugo86

'73 CB350, '78 XS650 Cafe Killer
Irk... I'm really diggin the desert sled thing man.. I have been wanting to build one for a few years now.. I have a little XL100 that is on deck for that type of build maybe next winter.
That being said.. I like the alignment of the rear fender, and I like that you molded the pan for the seat the way you did. So lotta hubbub about the Headlight... did you ever think of messing with two 5or6 inch LED buckets mounted side by side? That's right up the desert sled alley.
 

irk miller

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Next step is to carve a master for the seat cushion. I carved it from insulation foam. Coated the foam in Epsilon, then skimmed with Dynalite. Next, I’ll make a mold of this master...




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irk miller

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Mold is made. I’m a ceramicist, so I have tons of plaster and plaster is cheap. It’s easy to clean up and it’s non-toxic. Plus, it sets in an hour or less so you can make a mold in under 4 hours. I didn’t use a box, because I wanted to keep the mold lighter and to use less material. So I used a slump process which requires you to let the plaster set up until it’s like yogurt. Then you squeegee it into a mound over the form until it hardens. The plaster will get sealed with some stuff called Super Seal then coated with a mold release.






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Kanticoy

Mad Science!
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irk miller said:
Subframe, side covers and fender go back to stock. Maybe now I can paint it without fear of undoing...




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I just wanted to remind you of the irony of this post
 

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