1979 CB750L. My first cafe/brat project. Denver Area

Doing the happy dance! Valve clearances checked? The experts recommend .004 - .006". I've put ~140 miles on my 750F, and it is still static-timed, but I plan to re-check the valve clearance to see if they have changed. Gosh, those new isolators look nice!
 
On to the rest of the wiring for the M-unit blue. I made a small aluminum bracket to mount the m-unit and I need to figure out where I’m going to mount the grounding block. Running the input and output wires then I’ll clean it up into another harness and add waterproof connectors on each end so I can unplug the harness if needed later. Just got the Motone buttons in today and I like them. Quality is just as good as the Motogadget buttons but cheaper (not cheap though). Trying to figure out the best length throttle cables for my lower controls with the clubman bars.


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Looking like progress. On the stock throttle cables, they are routed on the LEFT side of the headstock, and over the TOP of the tank rubber receivers.
 
pidjones said:
Looking like progress. On the stock throttle cables, they are routed on the LEFT side of the headstock, and over the TOP of the tank rubber receivers.
Yeah the stock cables are run that way but with the clubman bars they are too long and stick out the front of the bike. I ordered a new throttle to get rid of the stock buttons and also bought cables for an earlier year CB750 since they are shorter. I’ll see if it works when they come in next week


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The stock cables tun that way to allow the forks to turn without interference, and without changing the throttle operation. Also to prevent pinching or too-tight bends going over the top of the motor and through the tank tunnel. But whatever, make it pretty I guess.
 
pidjones said:
The stock cables tun that way to allow the forks to turn without interference, and without changing the throttle operation. Also to prevent pinching or too-tight bends going over the top of the motor and through the tank tunnel. But whatever, make it pretty I guess.
I understand all that. I don’t have stock high rise bars anymore. The clubman bars bring the controls much closer to the neck so I ended up with a lot of extra slop in the cables that sticks out way past the headlight. I bought shorter cables to effectively give me the stock amount of slack with lower bars.


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Cables and new throttle in place and they fit perfectly. New paint on the header and new copper crush rings. The airbox is in place because I want to to run the right way and the carbs are running oh so sweetly
https://youtu.be/TfLPCXZhrVQ


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Right on, really looking (and sounding!) good. I like how you've left the cylinder block unpainted while everything else is looking so clean, pretty cool contrast. Pretty close to getting this beauty on the road?
 
Jimbonaut said:
Right on, really looking (and sounding!) good. I like how you've left the cylinder block unpainted while everything else is looking so clean, pretty cool contrast. Pretty close to getting this beauty on the road?
I wanted it to be a little different and I liked the look of some bare metal. Hoping to be done in a month. I need to figure out what I’m going to do about a seat. I’ll have to make my own.


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Wise choice to stick with stock airbox and filter. Improving the looks of the airbox is a challenge that someone needs to take on.
 
pidjones said:
Wise choice to stick with stock airbox and filter. Improving the looks of the airbox is a challenge that someone needs to take on.

Im learning to look beyond stock airboxes and appreciate the bigger picture of a finely tuned and reliable machine.

Its much easier to accept function over appearance.
 
I’m going to ride it this season with the airbox and when it’s time to put it away for the winter I’m going to do some testing. I have an idea to maintain the required vacuum and laminar flow these carbs need to run properly through all phases of throttle. I don’t care how something looks if it doesn’t operate properly if useless to me.


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