1980 Suzuki GN400 - cafe conversion

[Untame]

Be careful with the glass beads. When they hit, they shatter and create glass dust that can lacerate nasal and lung linings, inviting infection. I prefer aluminum oxide, although it doesn't leave as pretty a finish. Using glass, be sure to let the dust settle before opening the door, and vacuum up any leakage.

Thanks for the tip. My daughter was conscientious and made us both wear N95 masks.

After I'm done with the aluminum I will swap out media to do the cast iron.

I am also planning on cleaning up the engine fully assembled. Decrease, pressure wash, and soda blast. First I need to make sure I seal it up completely.

Chrome front rim isn't too bad, but has some small rust spots. Going to soak it in CRC Evaporust then polish it on my buffing wheel. I'll probably clear coat it to prevent the small pits where the rust was removed from rusting again.

 

[irk miller]

Thanks for the tip. My daughter was conscientious and made us both wear N95 masks.

After I'm done with the aluminum I will swap out media to do the cast iron.

I am also planning on cleaning up the engine fully assembled. Decrease, pressure wash, and soda blast. First I need to make sure I seal it up completely.

Chrome front rim isn't too bad, but has some small rust spots. Going to soak it in CRC Evaporust then polish it on my buffing wheel. I'll probably clear coat it to prevent the small pits where the rust was removed from rusting again.

First, just want to point out that unless you two are going to be breathing this stuff daily for many days and/or years your risk is relatively low, but proper protection from silica inhalation is a P100 mask.

 

[Untame]

First, just want to point out that unless you two are going to be breathing this stuff daily for many days and/or years your risk is relatively low, but proper protection from silica inhalation is a P100 mask.

Thanks. Never heard of P100.

 

[pidjones]

Another way to avoid it is with vapor blast rigs like Irk has. For me, after suffering too many sinus infections, I convinced the company to switch to aluminum oxide and the infections went away. We finally removed the cabinet and started cleaning the small parts we had with a hand-held gun outside. By only using the media once, we assured no contamination from someone coming in off-shift to clean home projects.

 

[Untame]

Blasted top clamp. I think I want to buff a little to see how it goes. If I don't like it I can always blast it again. Once I get the sheen right I will clear coat.

 

[Untame]

Seat leveled out and ready for loop.

 

[doc_rot]

Here is the geometry problem I am working on now....

I want to install a flat seat loop and modify the existing seat platform so that it is parallel to the ground (right now it slopes toward the rear, then kicks upward).

With 80mm of total shock travel the rear tire will hit the seat pad (top of the 1in seat loop). I am considering adding a 3/4in rubber bumper to the shock pistons to limit the shock travel to 60mm. (Note - because of the angle of the shock, the wheel travel will actually be greater than 60mm.)

Generally, limiting suspension travel is a last resort. If you do need to limit travel you need to find a shock with a stiffer spring and less travel rather than creating a longer bump stop. It will be easier than you think to bottom this configuration out. It is super jarring to bottom out and can be dangerous - if you are leaned over it usually means a loss of traction and a crash.

I would work your seat design around suspension constraints not the other way around.

 

[crazypj]

Agree with doc_rot, the 'hump' on the original frame was probably 2"~3" above wheel at maximum bump but it was there for a reason.
You should fit a wheel with tyre and figure out where it will be at max suspension travel, then, make sure you have at least 1/2" clearance.
Easiest way I've found is to remove spring from a shock then mount it at full compression.
When I joined this site 2008, there were many bikes built that put the wheel 'inside the seat' by going for a look and had to be reworked or were scrapped / sold as failed projects

 

[Untame]

In my Honda CL360 project thread I mentioned that projects were on hold the first half of this year because I was helping my dad die with Alzheimers. Now we are getting back into it.

My daughter and I got her new fuel tank mocked up on the frame. Relocated the mounting pins to level the bottom of the tank with the seat, and 3D printed mounting adapters.

She has ordered this seat from C-Racer in Greece. It comes unpainted, and she chose dark brown fabric with red rhomboid stitching.

Once we have the seat we can fit the seat loop and finish welding up the frame. Then prep and paint.