1982 CB750F...Better Devil

teazer

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pidjones said:
And to pull the dowel pins without damage (except possibly to the dowel pins); find a drill bit that you can just fit the shank into them, put it inside the dowel while you grip them with pliers. This keeps from collapsing the pin and gouging the inside of the case/jugs/head.
I find that a large EZ out will usually get them out. Sometimes they need warming a to help break teh grip and in rare cases they need to be dragged out kicking and screaming with a pair of vice grips
 

Jimbonaut

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I'm taking the head to a mechanic friend this eve who's going to school me in valve spring removal. We'll attack the dowel at the same time, get that sucker out one way or another.
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
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The Jimbonaut said:
I'm taking the head to a mechanic friend this eve who's going to school me in valve spring removal. We'll attack the dowel at the same time, get that sucker out one way or another.
Put a socket over the valve spring and whack it with a hammer. 8)
 

Jimbonaut

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1fasgsxr said:
Get a magnet and ninja snatch the keepers from the sky...whop pow.. 8)
NO idea what the hell that means but any sentence that ends with a whop pow deserves attention.
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
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The Jimbonaut said:
NO idea what the hell that means but any sentence that ends with a whop pow deserves attention.
Lol, when you use the hammer method to get the valve spring keepers off, they may or may not go flying across the shop.
 

Maritime

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Ha, the box may be 4' it's long. I didn't go to Maine. Jill did and she forgot to grab the samples. will be back over again soon though.
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
if I were you I'd order one of these, you'll need it to put the springs back in. can't use the hammer method for that sadly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kit-Overhead-Valve-Spring-Installer-Remover-Tool-OHV-OHC-Compressor-Engines/263584654535?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I grabbed that one for the virago. works fine. half the price of the best deal I could find on CAD side of the interwebs.
 

Jimbonaut

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$15? At that price they're making me buy it. Thanks for the link mate - I'll see how far I can get with my buddies set up, pretty sure he has everything I'll need. But that kit won't break the bank and would be a good addition to my shop. No worries on the samples, it's all good.
 

irk miller

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I would not use a hammer on your valve springs, especially because you will likely lose at least one keeper. The tools are cheap and it's too easy to do to risk it. My tool is like this. I modified it just a bit and it has worked on every bike I've tried it on...



Just compress the spring, then take a retractable magnet to the keepers and they just pop right out. Then do the same for putting them in, but without the magnet.

If you were trying to change them with the head on, you can fill your chambers with rope, turn the motor over until it compresses a bit, then push the springs with your hands and get the keepers out with a magnet.
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
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irk miller said:
I would not use a hammer on your valve springs, especially because you will likely lose at least one keeper. The tools are cheap and it's too easy to do to risk it. My tool is like this. I modified it just a bit and it has worked on every bike I've tried it on...



Just compress the spring, then take a retractable magnet to the keepers and they just pop right out. Then do the same for putting them in, but without the magnet.

If you were trying to change them with the head on, you can fill your chambers with rope, turn the motor over until it compresses a bit, then push the springs with your hands and get the keepers out with a magnet.
I was joking about the hammer...mostly. I have done it that way before but its definitely not the preferred method.

I've got a tool just like this, but I'm remembering that it didnt fit around the fins on the 360 when I was reassembling the top end. Mine must be a shallower throat depth.
 

irk miller

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advCo said:
I was joking about the hammer...mostly. I have done it that way before but its definitely not the preferred method.

I've got a tool just like this, but I'm remembering that it didnt fit around the fins on the 360 when I was reassembling the top end. Mine must be a shallower throat depth.
Yeah, you have to modify the jaws in order to fit inside the head. It's the angle of the spring and their orientation/distance to the inside lip of the head. Once you modify it, they pretty much fit any Honda with an ajdustment of the thumbscrew.
 

cb360j

Member
Common motor collective sells the style I use for motorcycle heads (also the one that Maritime posted link to), not sure if it would work on a 750 but it works for 550's. Its a little easier to use in my opinion vs. the one irk mentioned (which I would use for a sbc head)
 

Jimbonaut

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Valves removed no pasa nada, learnt a new thing today. Never removed them before so good to know the process - my friend, who's a 30+ year motorbike mechanic and restorer extraordinaire, has all the tools and made swift work of it. They were in bad shape - like brittle plastic. Damn good job those things are out of the head and into the bin.

I'm going to glass-bead clean the head before installing the new seals, which raises a question. He strongly advised, using a collection of french, english and portugese words for "utterly shit", against using anything but OEM valve seals. Same for the gaskets (base and head). Would that be shared wisdom amongst you guys? The generic gasket kit (which contains the valve seals as well) is gonna run me about $80. ONE oem valve seal is going to set me back about $15, and I need 16 of the buggers. And that's just for starters.

Are the generic gasket kits really that bad? Anyone had any good/bad/utterly shit experience with them?
 

Hurco550

Keep er' Between the ditches
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The Jimbonaut said:
Are the generic gasket kits really that bad? Anyone had any good/bad/utterly shit experience with them?
If my 2 cents (USD) is worth a penny and a half, I've had good luck with winderosa kits for both 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines. I've never had an issue with any of them personally. I am also not a 30 year veteran, but thinking at it now, I rebuilt my first 2 stroke snowmobile engine 15 year ago anyways (with the close guidance of my father ;) lol

The most recent one I purchased was the complete seal and gasket kit for my xr200 and I believe it cost me 40 bux shipped. It contained every single o ring, gasket and seal that could be replaced on that engine.
 

irk miller

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I get the blue viton valve seals and I try to get all viton o rings, so I get the benefit of ethanol tolerance.
 

Nybz

Member
Vitron all the way!
The stock ones don't hold up very well to ethanol.
Contact Genesound on the cb1100f forum....he has them on the cheap!
$15 for 16 seals plus shipping from US
He also has the upgraded cam holder bolts for cheap too

there are lots of people who only use OEM gaskets. I heard Cometic has good base and cylinder gaskets.
 

Jimbonaut

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That's invaluable, and has saved me a load of cash, thanks guys. I'll check out the Viton seals, and will shoot Genesound a message on that other forum. I read somewhere that Athena's gaskets hold up pretty well, and I'll definitely check out Cometic and Winderosa.

Buying a non-branded gasket and seal kit does give me paws pause.
 

irk miller

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I've used all three brands with great success. There really isn't a difference material-wise in each brand gasket. Fitment from better dies seems to be what separates most of them from each other. Cometic will also do an MLS head gasket, which IMO is a better deal. I use copper on most of my bored motors, but both of my 750 choppers have the graphite Cometic head gaskets.
 

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