1998 Gsxr 750 build

datadavid

New Member
crazypj said:
Interesting, never even heard of it previously even with guy's I knew 'back in the day' who raced Triumph twins with just about any mods you could think of (trying to stay 'competitive' with Suzuki/Kawasaki engined Rickman, et al framed bikes) I would think 'Y' oil-ways would be more for cylinder lube though as even a very shallow angle will not direct much to the underside of piston crown? (small end will be better lubricated from piston skirt scraping oil off cylinder walls and some will hit underneath piston.. Piston acceleration with te relatively long stroke motors would probably negate much cooling effect but I have seen many 'pretzeled' BSA/Triumph rods due to small end seizing (sen it on XS650's also)
The oil jet pointing at piston crown was actually copied from late 1920's ~ 1930's aircraft system. I'm not sure who used it first but was 'kinda' well known by time Rolls Royce designed the Kestrel . There is a lot of 'declassified' research available from NACCA, NASA , various defence ministries, etc, the 'trick' is to find whats useful and apply it to a different form of engineering (I think I may have 'invented' a new form of wind powered generator - unless Tesla did it first 100 yrs ago ;D )
Thats what the idea was anyway
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
datadavid said:
Thats what the idea was anyway
I was thinking (I know, always a bad move on my part) A 'Y' hole will 'sweep' as con rod angle changes. I have seen motorcycle con-rods with a boss cast in and drilled for oil squirting upwards (I think maybe 80's Yamaha FZR600?) The shell bearing kinda 'blocked' crank-pin oil feed hole at TDC but lined up about 20~30 degrees after TDC so would be pointing almost straight up?
Now I've slept on it, I may strip CB360 crank (already have XS 650 crank in pieces)
May not do any good as they are low pressure motors but centrifugal force may sling extra oil up inside piston?
XS 650 oil feed is is 'wrong' place to fit oil jets - very low aross front of crankcase(Yamaha use oil jets squirting on big ends and 'two-stroke' rods with slots) but CB360 has oil feed across top rear of case so oil jets could possibly be fitted?
There's probably a ton of useful information buried in other people's threads but only a few people will ever see it. :(
The only reason I know anything about aircraft piston engines is the fact someone asked me about radial and rotary engines almost 40 yrs ago.. Couldn't find much information so bought a couple of books which covered all types of aircraft piston engines. (I had a bit of spare cash for such things before I got married :) )
............and now we return to our regular program ;D
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
You ain't supposed to but it is possible to strip those fuel pumps. I forget what mods they need but I'm sure it's 'all over the internet'
You do need to fill the anti' lean device with epoxy or silicone, it was set to 'go off' at 45 degrees but can cut motor at less lean angle. (not usually too much of an issue, it's motor cutting back in at full throttle when you get bike back upright that kills people) Cant remember if it's in front or rear of battery box. make a note of orientation. Except for being 'less sexy' steel perimeter frame Katana's are actually a better frame than the alloy GSX-R 'conventional' styling (which is why all the later bikes use perimeter frame) It also makes servicing crazy easy compared to earlier GSX-R
 

canyoncarver

'hacking is learning'
DTT BOTM WINNER
Neat race tail. Do you have your own numbers in mind? I was going through that thought on mine too.
 

1fasgsxr

New Member
No numbers in mind...if I do any at all. While a Katana frame may be "better" there is no comparison between the 2 bikes imo.
 

1fasgsxr

New Member
I will never put anyones ride down again, I have in the past, but simply say its not for me or not my kind of bike.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
canyoncarver said:
I've got an 89' and a 90' Katana 600 and I can't seem to give them away.
Engines are same as the later 'Bandit'
Suzuki reverted to 'screw and locknut' valve adjustment
They should be worth at least a grand?
 

canyoncarver

'hacking is learning'
DTT BOTM WINNER
crazypj said:
Engines are same as the later 'Bandit'
Suzuki reverted to 'screw and locknut' valve adjustment
They should be worth at least a grand?
Interesting, I didn't know that. I'll look into it some more. I got them because they were cheap from two stoners who only wanted a little weed money. I'd trade them for a gsxr any day though.
 

1fasgsxr

New Member
I got the pump assembly back in the tank tonight. And messed with the tail fitment while keeping the stock tail light and inner fender...should be fun
 

nateb

Member
Hey man I’m Nate, kick ass build. I bought a Cb550 from a stoner with a 2001 gsxr1000 front end flopping around in the neck. He had big hopes but no money. Anyways I’m using the fork but I have a set of those wheels with really nice rubber on them. They are the 3 spoke polished aluminum wheels. If you could use them or know someone that could I’d let them go cheap to get them out of here.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

canyoncarver

'hacking is learning'
DTT BOTM WINNER
Nice progress. Is it the tail light that's crooked or the seat? It doesn't look too far off at least.
 

1fasgsxr

New Member
I think its the tail that sits wrong..I don't know the brand so it may not be that nice of a piece, plus I don't think it was designed to be run with the tail light either. Nate send me a pic of those wheels?
 

teazer

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
canyoncarver said:
Nice progress. Is it the tail light that's crooked or the seat? It doesn't look too far off at least.
Seat shell is clearly not square to that subframe - assuming the shot was actually dead on from the rear and not off to one side. I.e. perception matters, but it looks low on the left.

The question is why. Is it that the seat came from a mold that wasn't straight or do the mounts have some range of adjustment/slack or is the subframe less than 100% straight? Easy place to start is to loosen the mounting screws and see if it can be tweaked straight. If not, can the mounting holes be slotted slightly to bring it back plumb? If that's still not enough, it's time to check the subframe and mounts to see how far out of square they are. No need for a CMD Computrack analysis. Simple straight levels and or cheap laser levels are adequate to determine what's wrong.

We had an FZR400 that was dead on straight in most planes, but something didn't look right. I discovered that the wheels could not be made to be in line because the steering head was pushed 12mm to one side.

A good place to start is to get the front wheel vertical and then see if the rear wheel is also vertical AND in line with the front and if the seat mounts are dead on horizontal at the same time. new bikes are not always spot on and old bikes are usually out of alignment in several planes.
 

1fasgsxr

New Member
It could be all of those things Teazer. The poor thing appears to have had a rough life. I bought the seat used off Ebay because it was cheaper than trying to go back with stock plastics. The subframe is two separate pieces, should be easy to tweak back if its off any. I'm just at the put it on and see where its at stage right now.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
1fasgsxr said:
Got some work done , but the pump is leaking pretty bad...radiator on and all fluids in.
Common problem when bolts are overtightened. There was service bulletin about the 'problem'
Torque is crazy low, around 4~6 ft/lbs. The bolts feel like they could fall out as it's just about finger tight (not using a socket or wrench)
 
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