NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Would you believe it.....having ordered another front caliper, I fiddled about in the garage and viola!! I spied two old front pads in an old box....alongside the pad pins and locking tab I need. Just need the spring plate.
2x stroke street tracker - project coming together slowly.
- Thread starter NoRiders
- Start date
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
A day of detailing:
I routed the braided flexi I had kicking around, from the m/c up and over to the swingarm guide tags and caliper, as the banjo was flat I had to offset how it sat by going between the torque arm and wheel...not happy with that.
Happily, my job lot of braided lines I got for the Honda produced a suitable hose with a slightly angled banjo...this allowed it to sit where I wanted it and for it to pass between the shock and torque arm...much better.
I then set about sorting the front braided line.....again, a line that came with a pair of Brembo calipers suited perfectly...and as I was attaching it to the master cylinder I had to smarten that up a touch. I used the same method as on the Honda, burnished the reservoir cap, fitted it back with buttonhead allens, satin blacked the body and fitted with stainless allenheads...clean, simple...not too fussy or blingy.
I'll be using grey Renthal grips which should set it all off nicely I reckon. I'll fit a single mirror.
I've ordered f/r pads...so once fitted I just night give them a bleed
Thanks to those commenting, I appreciate the feedback and interest, cheers
I routed the braided flexi I had kicking around, from the m/c up and over to the swingarm guide tags and caliper, as the banjo was flat I had to offset how it sat by going between the torque arm and wheel...not happy with that.
Happily, my job lot of braided lines I got for the Honda produced a suitable hose with a slightly angled banjo...this allowed it to sit where I wanted it and for it to pass between the shock and torque arm...much better.
I then set about sorting the front braided line.....again, a line that came with a pair of Brembo calipers suited perfectly...and as I was attaching it to the master cylinder I had to smarten that up a touch. I used the same method as on the Honda, burnished the reservoir cap, fitted it back with buttonhead allens, satin blacked the body and fitted with stainless allenheads...clean, simple...not too fussy or blingy.
I'll be using grey Renthal grips which should set it all off nicely I reckon. I'll fit a single mirror.
I've ordered f/r pads...so once fitted I just night give them a bleed
Thanks to those commenting, I appreciate the feedback and interest, cheers
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Thanx Pete, just so happened i found a correct length line from a £18 job lot of various lines, used but good enough IMO.
Awaiting f/r pads and a pad retainer clip to complete the brake install.
Chatting to my lad about the wiring, I've got an SB loom complete, but it won't have the electric starter wire (I will check?) but the plan is to replace or repair or modify what we'll need and add where necessary.
I needed a lock tab, not prepared to fork out over £6 so knocked one up myself in 15mins. Sometimes, it's the little things....
I've decided to build it up to running and riding, put a mile on it to shake down any issues, then break it all down for the repaint of frame, bodywork and rebuild to a finish...phew!
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Oil tank arrived, looks the part, for £26 it's a bargain....if it holds oil??
Gots to get the tank into the airbox...
So, set about cutting and shutting the airfilter box so I could slide the tank in slots cut along the electrical mount side,
and then carve a section out of the battery side as the tank's really 90mm front to rear,
so where I was hoping to squeeze it in with a slice or two, it required a full 5mm slice out of the corners and then a cut through the rear end completely.
It fitted snugly when I'd finished...
...and, it slotted in position OK..
Here you can see the sight pipe just fitted through the Honda air to carb outlet...just.
I'm quietly pleased with myself...so far!
Just got to find a way to stitch it together, but still maybe get the tank out???
What could I use?
I'll need to relocate the rear battery strap side as it got past the point of no return.
Gots to get the tank into the airbox...
So, set about cutting and shutting the airfilter box so I could slide the tank in slots cut along the electrical mount side,
and then carve a section out of the battery side as the tank's really 90mm front to rear,
so where I was hoping to squeeze it in with a slice or two, it required a full 5mm slice out of the corners and then a cut through the rear end completely.
It fitted snugly when I'd finished...
...and, it slotted in position OK..
Here you can see the sight pipe just fitted through the Honda air to carb outlet...just.
I'm quietly pleased with myself...so far!
Just got to find a way to stitch it together, but still maybe get the tank out???
What could I use?
I'll need to relocate the rear battery strap side as it got past the point of no return.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
I also got onto the seat....I'm trying to figure a way to mount the fibreglass seat unit to the subframe without welding any brackets on.
Using strips of timber to build up the front sides, these will be shaped and glassed in. I found the CNX subframe bridge that I'd cut off, but kept....finally found it and it forms the centre seat mount.
The rear seat support (an old bath support leg I saved), I'll not call it a mount as it's just playing a supporting role in that it will help to hold up the arse end, but I'm resisting putting a screw through the top piece.
I'm exploring over centre catches to hold the centre bridge in place and with the notched front edge sitting inside the tank the seat should stay put in use. If I make the entire unit removeable I won't have to cut an access hole in the fibreglass to top up the oil, just flip the clips and lift away. I'll form a seat for the bridge to sit in, to stop sideways movement.
If this works I then only have to have the thinnest alloy seat liner to upholster and hold on with velcro..
I'm getting a feel for the riding position and I like it. Couldn't resist propping the headlight cowl in place...
An arse end shot with lights in roughly the position....the number plate will act as a mudguard.
Phew...got some done today
Using strips of timber to build up the front sides, these will be shaped and glassed in. I found the CNX subframe bridge that I'd cut off, but kept....finally found it and it forms the centre seat mount.
The rear seat support (an old bath support leg I saved), I'll not call it a mount as it's just playing a supporting role in that it will help to hold up the arse end, but I'm resisting putting a screw through the top piece.
I'm exploring over centre catches to hold the centre bridge in place and with the notched front edge sitting inside the tank the seat should stay put in use. If I make the entire unit removeable I won't have to cut an access hole in the fibreglass to top up the oil, just flip the clips and lift away. I'll form a seat for the bridge to sit in, to stop sideways movement.
If this works I then only have to have the thinnest alloy seat liner to upholster and hold on with velcro..
I'm getting a feel for the riding position and I like it. Couldn't resist propping the headlight cowl in place...
An arse end shot with lights in roughly the position....the number plate will act as a mudguard.
Phew...got some done today
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Thanx...yes, needs a few degrees more to sit as a number plate guard. Just figuring out the bracket.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Ha...well, if it works out like I hope ...sat on it today...feels good.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Thanx.
I'm pleased with it and looking to finish the corners, so they're secure but removable so, if I have to remove the tank, I can. May use U shaped edge trim and band it with a massive Jubilee clip?
I'll probably pack out the underside on the yoga mat I have, 15mm nice n think, trebled up and clearanced for the feed spigot, should work.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Been thinking about the seat mount.....came up with a 'hot shoe' set up that the 'feet' of the bridge will locate in, there's a back stop to resist backward slide while riding, but, with two over centre latches clamping it down it'll not go anywhere...given I'll not be riding competitively, just street tbh.
In, what has become my signature, I manager to fashion the shoes out of an ex drawer runner I had stashed (thinking it'd come in handy, as you do )....the location shoes came out OK for something that will be largely hidden and painted frame colour. Just need rubber booties for the feet and a dab of weld to hold them.
I'll install ¬ brackets along the front edge to locate and prevent sideways movement.
I hope to have a securely fastened seat unit that will release in a second.
The upholstered alloy sheet seat pad will be held on with velcro....more to come.
In, what has become my signature, I manager to fashion the shoes out of an ex drawer runner I had stashed (thinking it'd come in handy, as you do
)....the location shoes came out OK for something that will be largely hidden and painted frame colour. Just need rubber booties for the feet and a dab of weld to hold them.I'll install ¬ brackets along the front edge to locate and prevent sideways movement.
I hope to have a securely fastened seat unit that will release in a second.
The upholstered alloy sheet seat pad will be held on with velcro....more to come.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
For an elcheapo part it's ok. (£17 $20) The drilling through the mounting lug was off...but I've had a direct action m/c from this supplier on my CBX build and it's still ok.
The operating angle is off slightly but thats down to the position I chose, the action seems smooth. I'll only really know when its bled and running.
The reverse action solved a positional problem.
I dont foresee any issues.
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
I used a Chinabay front and rear master on my CB750F rat bike rescue. Had to take both apart and clean crap out of them. The rear mount holes were a little off, and the screw hole to hold the plastic feed line 90 degree adapter was drilled off, which caused side-load on the o-ring and quite a leak. Enlarging the hole in the plastic permitted it to self-center and stopped the leak. Most of these come with a rebuild kit.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
As the seat unit install progresses
I've fashioned a rear tank mount out of a redundant exhaust hanger rubber.....quick cut n shut saw it sit in the tank mount locating hole and sit on the subframe between two hooks that I've used as rubber band 'quick release' tie downs. I could find a proper rubber O ring from somewhere.
Tank sits a few mms off the subframe and seat unit will raise up a few mm when I glass in the timber spacers etc. Plus a tank of fuel will weight the tank down. I'm happy and the rubber can still be shaved....
As teh seat unit is now sitting in it's position, I've also paid some attention to the rear lights......position is optional as I have room.....so 'tucked'? Can anyone else see a stormtrooper?
Looks good, but from this angle no light lens is visible....I wonder if that would pose a problem?
Whereas, if I lower the lights an 1" or 3" they still look OK sat under the unit, but they can be seen from close up.
The other aadvantage is the lights could be mounted separately from the seat unit, tucked would require a glassed in mount....so the lights would need to be disconnected every time I top up the oil tank. Could be a PITA?
I've fashioned a rear tank mount out of a redundant exhaust hanger rubber.....quick cut n shut saw it sit in the tank mount locating hole and sit on the subframe between two hooks that I've used as rubber band 'quick release' tie downs. I could find a proper rubber O ring from somewhere.
Tank sits a few mms off the subframe and seat unit will raise up a few mm when I glass in the timber spacers etc. Plus a tank of fuel will weight the tank down. I'm happy and the rubber can still be shaved....
As teh seat unit is now sitting in it's position, I've also paid some attention to the rear lights......position is optional as I have room.....so 'tucked'? Can anyone else see a stormtrooper?
Looks good, but from this angle no light lens is visible....I wonder if that would pose a problem?
Whereas, if I lower the lights an 1" or 3" they still look OK sat under the unit, but they can be seen from close up.
The other aadvantage is the lights could be mounted separately from the seat unit, tucked would require a glassed in mount....so the lights would need to be disconnected every time I top up the oil tank. Could be a PITA?
