$50 mod thread

Wee Todd said:
stop programming for a minute .......find the humour..........umm not smokin a damn thing,,,,,,,,,but,,,,could fall off the wagon,,,,some time soon,,,,,,or laters ::)

we know your just seeking attention, unfortunatly, your posts are not funny, not even in a pathetic way.

Heres a goosd one for all you GL1000 guys, I was riding the bike to work yesterday, it's been running excellent, when all of a sudden hit a bump and the bike just dies. I was pulling in to drop of some rentals at blockbuster so I coasted to the closed parking spot. Figure it has to be a fuse as this happened on my 450. Well check the only fuse box I knew of the top of my head nad no blown fuses. Call the wife to get me and take me back to work.... Google to the rescue. Main fuse for the bike is in a little plastic box right by the starter solinoid beside the battery, The fuse is a little strip of metal between 2 contacts designed to blow at 30 amps. Well mine was the original and it had corroded until it broke, it did not blow, just split at the rusty spot, so when I hit the bump, apart it came and bike just quit. So these things are nto available anywhere but a honda dealer. To get the bike home i bypassed the fuse, fired it up and drove it the few KM's home. Then went to Princess auto, bought a 3.00 blade fuse holder and a pack of 3.00 30 amp fuses. a little cutting, soldering and shrink toube and now have a 30 amp main fuse that can be bought at any gas station. Will get picks later but anyone who hasn't doen this I highly recomend it. It is not a good idea to run without the fuse for long and the OEM is not an easy find. And for 6 bucks I still ahve 4 spares now residing in the bike.


Great idea! I had the same thing happen to my 350 and I did the same thing. I then went around and did this to all 4 of my bikes that are all at least 25 years old. Got rid of all the old fuses. Gives great peace of mind.
That's why the old bikes have spare fuse holders :)

When I wired up my 650 project I did it with a single 20A mini blade fuse. Easy to carry spares too.
x2 He seems to have a wealth of knowledge, you just have to think sideways to understand him!!
And to thinks,,,,even crazy pajamas has an attiltude >: pj is a wealth of knowledge......I just like stirring up shit,,,,,,,,it's fun ;D,,,now everybody get back to work of those fresh barn finds,,,clean off the pigeon shit!! ::)....I plan to post something intelligent,,,,soon!...........................Todd
Ok here's a couple other bits..

1) New light for old sealed beam headlights.
Most all of our bikes are old. Old bikes come with old lighting, generally sealed beam and unfortunately, not only are they less and less available, more and more expensive...they generally suck. Dunno about you kats but I like seeing where I'm going whilst riding at night.

Snot a problem man! If you have a decent sealed beam and a light base to fit the bulb you want you can easily rework to suit. The glass used in sealed beam lights generally isn't tempered, at least to my experience. As such the glass can be worked just like any other. I used to work in a glass shop back in highschool, we did all sorts of weird stuff back then. I mounted a pair of H4 bulb bases into the reflectors of a 31 Ford, worked well. Don't see why it wouldn't here so long as your new bulb isn't going to be too deep....

Get yourself some glass etching liquid, most craft stores will have some. Etch the back of the sealed beam from the bulb connector to the rim. Then cover the entire light in a couple layers of painters tape, use a belt sander to basically grind off the existing connector/filament base such that your new bulb will fit inside without contacting. If you can, a wet sander is better but if you don't have access, work slow and let it cool often. If it gets too hot to hold with bare hands then you run the risk if it shattering.

Now take your other light with the bulb mount and since it's likely plastic, dremel off the base and file the edges clean. You want to leave enough material to completely overlap the cut out sealed beam. At this point, I'd scuff the inside of the new bulb flange, peel the painters tape off the back of the formerly sealed beam and epoxy the two sections together. Lay the sealed beam on a flat surface such that it's supported and won't wobble. Align the new bulb flange to the glass portion so that it's as straight as possible though you'll have a certain amount of room as long as it's not ridiculously out of alignment. Once the initial epoxy application has hardened, I'd add a little fiberglass cloth and another layer of epoxy though that may be overkill.

things to keep in mind:
1) Do a test fit, under power. There's a little 'wiggle room' as far as filament position is concerned. Just be sure that you're getting good light output in a decent pattern.

2) Be sure you're housing and the new bulb flange are both oriented the same ie; up/up not up/down

3) Before using your adhesive of choice, be sure the glass housing is nice and clean. No need to trap dust and gunk.

Someone asked about using something like silicone caulk as an adhesive....dunno why that wouldn't work so long as the temps are within range.

And also: Plate mounts.
Lost of us are looking for nice plate mounting brackets. If you're of the mind to make yours...more power to ya! If however you'd rather there was something to be had, here you go:
Curved: https://www.1977mopeds.com/product/1891/License-Plate-Bracket--Curved/

Flat : https://www.1977mopeds.com/product/991/Universal-License-Plate-Holder/

Flat Lightened: https://www.1977mopeds.com/product/1890/License-Plate-Bracket--Lightened/
that's great if you're running a 7" light and i see that he's got 5 3/4" as well.
On one shelf at the shop I've got a small pile of headlights ranging from 11" 30's industrial truck down to these weird 3" seal beam from some moped. I've got some neat but oddly shaped ones two, old polygon shaped 60's scooter lights, an oddball triangular one too.

I guess I was more pointing to a solution for limited availability, now if you're rocking a standard size light...there are much easier options to be had that's true.
A great idea for an inexpensive camera mount.
Staffy, damn you. I just spent over an hour looking at DIY videos because of you. We should require a disclaimer for possibly addictive links. :D
WOW we are at 98 total mods now on here! hell ya!!!! i have updated the main page links so that they are now up to date.. keep them coming!
Motorcycle table, $40 in wood +screws.
-one 4' x 8' osb board, rip to 3' wide as the tabletop
-four 2x4x8' as frame rails
-2 2x4x8', cut to 3 pieces of 32" each for braces
-one 4x4x12' cut to six lengths of 2' as legs
I put the center braces a foot off from the center for the centerstand

picture doesn't show the leg braces across the bottom. Height was measured for handlebar clearance under the opened garage door.


of course you'll need a ramp to get the bike up and off, my ramp's a 2x12x8ft long plank with ramp attachements (originally used for landscaping equipment).

Seriously, a must have. no more working on the ground. Use a metal plate to put under the centerstand for weight distribution.Very sturdy, can hold my 650lb. bike, my 165 lb-but I wouldn't try kickstarting on the table, just for balance issues. Underneath is a great place for storage,too.
my original post on the GSR:
links to other designs, tables on casters, metal tables with hydraulic lifts...
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