$650 1980 Honda 750 Super Sport

Thanks everyone.

Ya the chrome and all is it great shape.

Here's an update. WIth the help of my son Michael we installed the parts on.

Replacement headlight & cage, tubes, wheel, rotors, signal lenses, and new tire.

Still have the luggage rack but it's removed to make working on it easier. I like the rack, even more since it's a tough find.

As it sits today (Michaels pic since my phone is broke):

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As purchase:
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Nice! Have you adjusted the valves yet? The DOHC sites indicate that Hondas specs are one or two thousandths of an inch too tight - especially on the exhaust where they are prone to burn valves if too tight. I gave the guy that bought my '79 a whole box of shims left from my getting it in shape.
 
Nice! Have you adjusted the valves yet? The DOHC sites indicate that Hondas specs are one or two thousandths of an inch too tight - especially on the exhaust where they are prone to burn valves if too tight. I gave the guy that bought my '79 a whole box of shims left from my getting it in shape.
Not yet. First goal for it was to get it rolling again before really trying to get into it. However the engine turns fine, all lights work, brakes work but need fresh fluid. And I have the '79 xs1100 ahead of this one.

Thanks for the tip valve info man.
 
Oh yeah. Now you're cooking with pinot
:D

Leveled up on the 750 over the last two days.

Going down the troubleshooting list in the service manual we found the timing was WAAAAY off. We set it properly as a static setting yesterday and got it to start a few times on starting fluid but not actually run. I think we had a combination of choke and flooding issues going on.

My son had to go back to Sacramento today but after work I took another look and reset the timing again. Then a shot of starting fluid and playing with the choke got it to actually start and run for a few minutes until I cut it off.

It's running on all four cylinders but backfiring a bit every so often. I think a little dynamic fine-tuning on the running engine and getting a little seafoam running through the carbs and it'll be good to go without actually removing the carbs for any real work.

We also flushed out all the old brake fluid while he was here but the brakes still aren't quite right so master cylinder rebuilds seem like they're in the very near future.

Sorry, no new pics as I have the seat and side covers off at the moment.

Will post more soon.
 
Heat gun, ratchet strap and silicone grease. Have these on hand because you WILL have to remove the rack - perhaps many times - to get the carbs working properly. Seafoam is great for maintenance or after winter layup recovery, but for getting one that has been setting long starting, running, and idling correctly the carbs will need much more. The heat gun softens the old boots for removal and installation. The ratchet strap helps push them into the "insulators" (Honda won't call them boots). The grease eases insertion and reduces rubber damage. Oh, and putting them back in you will learn to hook up throttle and choke cables while the rack is at ~30 degree angle on right side going in.
 
It's running on all four cylinders but backfiring a bit every so often. I think a little dynamic fine-tuning on the running engine and getting a little seafoam running through the carbs and it'll be good to go without actually removing the carbs for any real work.
If you don't have to pull the carbs, that would admirably demonstrate the theory that everything in the universe is in balance - for every positive there is a negative, for every headache there's a rainbow etc. I've had to pull the carbs out of my '82 Super Sport going on for 478 times chasing down a fuelling problem, so if you don't have to pull yours out once then - boom! - cosmic balance

;)

What Pid said. I find a clamp on either side of the bike, from the frame to the airbox, pulls the airbox back another inch or so which really helps removing and reinstalling the carbs. If you need to.

Oh, check out brakecrafters.com if you need caliper build kits. Mark the owner's a great guy, he'll do you right
 
Thanks guys, lots of good info, appreciate it.

The bike has a 2020 plate and was last driving about a year ago. The fuel was drained by the previous owner after his crash so hoping for the best with the carbs.
 
Ran some fresh gas & a little seafoam through the carbs for a few minutes, then let it sit for a few days.

Tweaked the front end to be straight in the meantime.

Then added more fuel to dilute the seafoam further & its running pretty good now.

Went back through the brakes yesterday to get comfortable with them.

After work today i let it warm up and double checked brakes before pulling in the clutch and getting first gear... no issues so i shut it off, got suited up, and drove it around the block.

Man it feels great to have a bike to ride again after 7 years. I'll take it around the block a few more times & then the neighborhood to check it out thoroughly before getting any speed on it or taking it to work but so far so good

A previous owner removed the baffles so it's loud... I'd like to find a fix for that.

And i do have the front fender, but it is cut shorter by a previous owner.

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Love the bike but how old are those Dunlop 501's? They look older than the 30 year old Comp K Metzlers on my bike.....
 
The exhaust is a twin to the '79 CB750F that I rescued a few years ago. I cut disks from som scrap and welded them to thin wall tubing, then pop-riveted them into the holes the PO left. Helped, but still too loud for this old GoldWing rider. Yeah, I'm no welder.
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Those dunlops were probably crap new and they now look like hockey puck rubber. I'd get a new set of better tires before doing any kind of fast or twisty riding
 
Ya, the rear for sure... the front is new.
The exhaust is a twin to the '79 CB750F that I rescued a few years ago. I cut disks from som scrap and welded them to thin wall tubing, then pop-riveted them into the holes the PO left. Helped, but still too loud for this old GoldWing rider. Yeah, I'm no welder.
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thanks man, i may try your method.


Those dunlops were probably crap new and they now look like hockey puck rubber. I'd get a new set of better tires before doing any kind of fast or twisty riding

Ya, the rear for sure... the front tire is brand new.
 
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