74' CL360 - Project Pale-Skull - DormRoom Build


New Member
What's going on fellas?!
Been reading this site for the past few months, lurking, etc.. And felt a had to have a bike.
Never owed a bike of my own, my parents are mortified by them, so I've never had the chance to grow up on one..
Despite their feelings, i said f$%k it, and at the age of 22, I've got myself a bike.. in parts..

I've never worked on a bike, maybe a few Go-Karts and Go-Peds here an there, but after reading a few threads and
looking over some Shop Manual PDF's, I think I can tackle this project from bare bones..

I was pretty surprised to find out when I got the bike/parts lot, it was (tobiism)'s 360 project!
Further confirming the tiny size of this two wheeled community..

With that being said, I'm ready to put this engine back together, what's left to do is hone the cylinder,
,drop the Chain Tensioner Holder/damper/slipper in place, and bolt her up.

I've got new Head and Base Gaskets and 67mm Flex-Hone in today.

- Are there any things I should watch for as I rebuild the top end?
- Any tips when I hone? I've been following this video for technique.. Motorcycle and ATV Cylinder Hone Instructions - Flex-Hone
- When I've honed the cylinder, and am installing pistons, should I oil up the rings and cyclnder walls? What oil? (Spray Sillicone, or a light coat of 10-30 or 5/30 oil?)

I'm going to have a bunch of retarded questions.. :-[

I need to left side cracnkcase gasket, I've seen a few on ebay, but I can justify some of the prices..
- Could I just make a gasket for the cracnkcase? It doesn't get as hot as the jugs etc.. from what I can concur..

Thanks Dudes!


Active Member
Welcome to DTT. Ya just posted this today... Give it a couple days and Im sure youll get your answers.


Welcome aboard!

As far as gaskets go, just get the whole kit. It'll run you about $45 + shipping, but it'll cover every gasket you need for a full engine rebuild. You can, of course, make your own gaskets, but that seems like a lot of trouble to me. To each their own, though...

Try this link for the full gasket kit:

After the hone, using a light coat of oil or WD-40 is fine. Weight and viscosity of the oil isn't so important, just make sure the steel stays coated so you avoid rust spots. Rust appears very quickly (minutes, usually) on the surface of untreated steel (especially if washed in water) so don't take took much time in getting it coated.

Stay away from silicon stuff for the internals of your engine. It has its uses as a sealant (where needed), but overusing it can cause you problems. That stuff doesn't dissolve or dissipate and can clog small oil passages if you go crazy with it.


New Member
Update Fellas!

Here she is, so far since last, I have honed out the cylinders, cleaned up and installed the pistons, and bolted it down.
So, here's my next set of question.

Here's the top end, where the work is continuing.
What is the trick to getting the Cam Chain on? I can't seem to get it, will i need to get a chain breaker first?
As for the Tensioner Holder, I have two on the way here.. Both without the little Damper that goes inside it, is that damper really needed?
- The slipper seems like it should sit fine, despite the missing damper.

As for the right side, All seems to look well, and when the gasket comes in, it should be ready to be bolted up.
- What is the idle gear for? it seems to just float there.. I will not be using an electric start, I want it kick only.
- The four (4) bolts on the clutch basket, how tight should they be torqued? Manual doesn't seem to say, I currently have them evenly tightened as tight as my fingers can get them.

As for the left side, the clutch cover/mechanism i think I got down.. But the Stator.
Besides the Stator and two (2) covers and gasket, is there anything else missing there? Remember, going for a kickstart only setup.

And lastly for the question session..
I have figured out what needs to be done in order to service and clean the carbs.. Though when connecting them, how do you link the two carbs to pull together? etc..

Hopefully this isn't to long.. I'll try making videos.

That is all for now..
Next set of questions and such will be all things Ignition.
Points, more specifically..



New Member
Nevermind with the chain.. Chain's on.

Currently waiting for a stator to come in so I can adjust the Chain timing.
The points adjustment/timing will have to wait till my point's plate assembly comes in.

Updates to come.. Regardless this is coming along quite smooth


'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
Yeah them ain't no stock 360 carbs. The stator side, if you are gonna run kick only, take the starter clutch out. It's the stuff behind the stator rotor, the gear the springs and the rollers. Will save some weight a least. Then talk with crazy PJ get one of his plugs for the starter hole. ;)


New Member
as for most "missing" parts or "is this good enough" talk there is really only one thing to say

Honda paid alot of very smart guys alot of money to figure out how to make these bikes. If you dont fully understand motors or bikes its best to do things exactly like honda did it. this will lead to the best results.

as for the carbs.....what are they off of? you have a manifold for them?
do they link together in some way?
do you know the size? honestly they look like they are to big.
these motors dont run well in stock form and bigger carbs
straight pipe exhaust and pods = still stock motor.


New Member
If i can find my rotor puller, that junk will be off! thanks you sir!

As for the carbs..

I have one other, identical to those Mikuni's, They came in the big Box of parts that everything else on this build pretty much came from.
So much other than that I'm not sure.. I have read somewhere that they dont use a mounting plate? and that they both mount directly to each carb inlet on their own?

Haha, yea.. I'm not sure of the size, they do look big.
I'm looking for you guys to figure out this one, it's beyond me.. All i could think of is getting, a set of carbs that are known to fit, but that's out of the budget for now I suspect.


Active Member
Ill tell ya this... Those carbs are worth more than the motor on your desk. Honestly. Theyre Mikuni flatslides. If theyre in good useable condition you can get over $100 a pop for them easily. Put them up for trade on Craigslist and the forums for a set of VM30s, or put them on EBAY. As far as theyre size, it should be stamped on them somewhere. Look for a number. My very uneducated guess is that theyre 32 or 34 mm, which is WAY too big.


New Member
Makes sense..

Here's another pic of em, The two on the bracket have to springs tension on the levers, but I'm assuming all (4) would mount to the same engine..

But yea they are in good condition..

My options were leaning towards Mikuni VM24's (28mm Manifold, right?) or the VM30's such as VonY. stated.
What do you think? This bike wont go through many mods, I just want it reliable with a little "oomp!" if possible.


'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
To get the rotor off use a STOCK back axle bolt threaded into it. Tighten it down, smack the end with a hammer and turn and I bet it pops off. I did the same for mine.

DO NOT USE A 3 JAWED PULLER it will crack the rotor. They are meant to be driven off from the center not pulled from the outside.


New Member
those carbs are off a 4 cylinder bike.
if you have all of the linkages to get them back on one rack then do that and sell them. they really arent worth a hole lot as singles as most people arent willing to fab linkages, worry about jets, or try and see if they will even work as singles.
shame, those carbs were worth a good chunk, if you cant get them back together.

even VM30s are a bit much for a stock motor.
just find a cheap set of stock carbs and see if you can get it running that way first. if you start modding before you get it running then you will have nothing to fall back on when its not working right.....


New Member
frogman, I'll give it a go!

Mikuni BST36SS im guessing.
I seem to have the linkage aswell, they also seem to fit on the GSX750F's / Katana 750's 89' - 97'.
Maybe a DRZ400, aswell? mehhh..

I'll see if I can move em.
I've set my sights on VM30's - Jetted at 150/23 for starts.


New Member
Here is some convo on pulling the stator w/ the rear axle. http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=20106.130. The phillips head screws holding starter clutch on the back are PITA, but will pop loose with and impact or a couple of solid whacks with the hammer. I would def remove that stuff, it's just a waste to leave it.

For the starter hole, you can use an expanding freeze plug. You can find one at any auto parts store for like $5. I put one in mine until I can put something prettier in there. It worx tho. Can't remember the exact size, but you can figure that out. Here's a pic, you can kind of see it.

Something like this...http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Dorman-Freeze-Plug/_/N-8znl4Z1z13zwr?counter=16&itemIdentifier=522581_0_0_&newYmme=true


New Member
surffly said:
just find a cheap set of stock carbs and see if you can get it running that way first. if you start modding before you get it running then you will have nothing to fall back on when its not working right.....
I agree with with this philosophy, it will give a baseline that you know will work, or even a set of aftermarket carbs that have already been rejetted for your model and are proven. You could be in retirement by the time you get carbs set up from scratch and have eliminated all the other variable gremlins that will inevitably be lobbing spanners into the works. Those flat slides should bankroll the project which looks like it's progressing very nicely. :)
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