74 dt100a

Check to see if there is a spark at the points. In a dim garage, turn the ignition on and kick it a couple times. No spark there is a good diagnostic tool as well.

It also could be the wiring to / from the condensor.
 
would it be possible to make my single wire coil setup a double wire? im gunna shoot for this diagram as my setup but my bike doesnt use a rectifier or regulator.. i dont think anyways.. my probe light flashes so it must use a rectifier somewhere tho right? or is it just power from the points..?? lol

Custom_Motorcycle_Wiring_Diagram_no.png



or maybe this

Custom_Motorcycle_Wiring_Diagram_by.png



this is so useless its easier looking at the bike than this thing... fml

dt1-100-175-wiring.gif
 
I'm really tired this morning so I'm gonna just say it - don't be offended. You do have some type of rect/reg, and for good reason. If it's a 6 volt system, don't jump it from a 12 volt battery, you can damage the coils or something. And the coil you just bought, it should be a 6 volt coil. For tackling major-ish electrical stuff, get a multi-meter. Just makes everything so much easier.

Just wanted to add - seriously, I'm tired as heck.
 
lol its ok.. i appreciate all the help you have given me! and yeah its 6v system i haven't hooked a battery up to it at all yet! alot of people with these bikes just run them with no battery so im just gunna do it too.. kinda like a kicker i guess thats why i was asking if that 1st wire diagram worked.. well i guess im off to bed for the day haha thanks again man!
 
well ive ordered a whole lot of parts to make this bike street only! thinkin of removing the oil pump and just pre-mix it.. stiffer rear springs.. although i might keep the stock adjustable springs we'll see when they get here.. a real high performance coil that is 6volt and is the same size as the stock unlike that cheepy cheep one i got that is weird size lol.. im thinkin of keepin the stock tank just cuz its so small and i like that.. also found a cr80 expansion chamber for $25 on cl so im gettin that too! after gettin schooled on how to set a gap the correct way i found a repair-e-manual that showed how to do it and as soon as i finish mounting the clean engine on the nice clean frame ill test it again.. man there was alot of mud and grease on this thing.. i wont be doing most of this until the knobby tires wear out lol cuz after all its summer and if i can ride my dirtbike to mt.raineer then ride around some trails and then ride home.. that would be sweet..
 
Don't know if you've noticed yet, but I don't know squat about 2 smokes! But I've heard on some bikes, messing with the oil system can end up destroying the motor. Just food for thought.
 
Here we go...

Before you decide to ditch the premix pump, its probably worth cleaning it out and readjusting it. You need to bleed the system so it has no air bubbles, and then reattach to the ouput lines. It'll do a good job, with a variable ratio depending on the throttle opening. If you're dead-set on running premix (can't see any problems with doing it on these simple engines, but better safe than sorry hey?) then you'll need to run it on a 20:1 ratio.

On the CR80 pipe you've ordered, when I fitted one to my otherwise mechanically stock Kawasaki 100 it didn't do much. This is because the powerband of the pipe starts above the effective rev limit of the engine - our little off-roader strokers are limited to around 8,000rpm by the carburettor. The Kawasaki was running a Mikuni VM19, I'm replacing it with a Keihin PE28. This is overkill for most purposes but keep in mind I'm racing it and will be doing some porting a well. I'd advise either a 22 or 24mm carburettor for your bike.

Cheers - boingk
 
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