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Should I paint the engine cases while everything is apart and then touch of the inevitable dings I get from reassembly or do I paint it after everything is put back together and just mask stuff off as I go?
I'd paint them now, man. Masking the engine while it's together is a headache. On my last bike I painted the engine while it was apart, and I don't think I dinged anything putting it back together.
A little bit more work done... I've fabricated a brass plate to hold my electronics under the seat hump. I also started painting the cases and started work on a brass dash, as well. I'm ditching my tach and so I wanted to center the speedo.
Clearance is tight, but it's going to help keep everything nice and hidden once the seat goes on.
One coat of paint onto the right case cover, so far. I still need to bake and detail it.
Pic of the brass dash in progress. There's still a bit of trimming and drilling to do.
Well... as suggested, I painted up the engine cases before I started reassembly. Cleaning and stripping them took a couple of hours, but I did learn a neat trick: Paint stripper is the ultimate degreaser. I had some pretty nasty chunks of hardened grease around the area of the front sprocket and I sprayed some paint stripper all up in there and the grease just slid right off.
I also finished up the brass dash plate on which I was working and the speedo is now nicely centered and lowered.
Not pictured work was hooking up the front and rear brake stays and attaching the Hondaman ignition unit to my brass plate which will sit under the seat.
It's not too bad from a few feet away. It turns out there was a bunch of pitting though on the underside... Not much can be done about that, I suppose?
In my opinion, if it's on the bottom, and you'll be riding the bike and not just showing it.. Let it be a imperfect. Chances are good you'll never see it . I tried cleaning mine, but that's about the extent of it.
Thanks, Ross. That was my line of thinking as well. This isn't a show bike.
Perfect usually takes ten times as long and costs twice as much. For this build I think good enough; is.
The valves, valve springs, new retainers, and new valve stem seals are all back in the head. The transmission is installed and ready to go in the upper crank case and the lower crank case has the kickstart assembly ready to go. I think I put the kickstart ratchet mechanism in rotated 180° though. Can someone please confirm?
The valve springs are aftermarket versions coming from R/D Valve Springs in Cali. The new retainers and clips are all aluminum to further cut down on weight. I'm not sure if the springs themselves are aluminum (I don't think they are), but they feel a lot lighter than stock. They're good for lift up to .450" which is a lot more than the .381" I'm running.
Also... any tips for sealing the top and bottom cases together once I get to that point?
Kickstart looks right to me, I didn't know you could get them in wrong, mine only went together one way.
I used the High Temp Hondabond stuff just because that's what honda uses and because it is grey. Worked good tacked up nice and so far no leaks. Shoulda bought it somewhere other than the dealer though, freaking 12 bucks for tiny tube of the stuff.
You may look at doing the drill job on the oil gallery mod while its still apart, if can. The heads with the flat backed point cavity are easy to do. Might be able to run down the guts for a 6 speed trans and put em in too.
I was wondering about the 6 speed. Is the sixth gear just an overdrive or are all the ratios different? Also which part does one drill to increase the oil flow?
The last 2 gears in a 6 are overdrive. I forget the ratio but its in the shop manual. The head mod is like so..
You connect the oil passage that comes up the left side with the stuff in the picture. Once the holes are drilled you plug the left side with a plug or JB weld or w/e. If you have the head that looks like this one it's easy. I have 2 heads one that is cast different and requires some thinking to do. I going to enjoy my machine for the summer and prolly next winter swap heads.
It's interesting to note that 1st and 2nd gear on the CJ are geared higher. I did always feel like 3rd gear on my bike was a bit low and now I know why.
I think I will make the switch over to the six speed at some point, but the budget on this build is quickly drying up and I don't want to throw too much more into the mix at this point. I still need to buy wiring supplies, 'glassing supplies, and possibly a new chain.
Thanks, Kev. I designed it myself and I know a guy who prints them up cheap. If you're ever in the market for one, lemme know.
frog,
I think I'll skip the drilling for now, too. All I have is a hand drill and I don't want to eff something like that up. It looks a bit too precise for what I currently have on hand.
Yeah, having a drill press would be best, that's why I'm gonna wait, I keep looking for a cheap press. The gearing comparison is rather interesting. The CB final is LOWER than the CJ at stock, yet they do the same top speed. What is the stock tooth count on your bike? Mine is 16 and 34.
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