77' kz650

I like how it's a Japan Storage battery....made in MEXICO!!

I'll tell you what someone smarter than myself told me. The smaller the battery, the shorter the lifespan. It may work today, hell may work a year from now, but as it seems many people haven't really put serious miles on their bikes, you may never know when this will stop working. But I got that at the battery store...they could have been messing with me to get me to buy a larger battery eh? ???
 
Coopacoopacoopa said:
I'm just looking to ride it for the first time in all honesty.

I also just love the sketchy labeling on it haha. Japan>Mexico ANY DAY. I'm not sure if I'm reading the labeling right..is it12VO./8Ah or 12V/0.8Ah? .8ah I'm pretty sure a motorcycle would kill that battery in a few hours, even one lacking the electricals mine does.
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For it's size, I'm fairly sure its the latter 12V 0.8ah but it would be ONE good ride! haha
 
Coopacoopacoopa said:
That's what my vague sense of logic was telling me. Shat. I don't want to buy a battery!! They're so damn expensive.
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Your logic is good, your battery is not! haha. What's another 60-100 bucks? Or if you want a super small one..what's another $60-$200? haha. Good luck on your search sir.
 
Depending on where you are able to stick it, they make some relatively small battery for about $70 or so for a sealed battery, you can lay it down that way if needed.
 
That frame color looks great. Keep it up.

Ebay for the levers. Go dual disc on the front if you can, can't have too much braking capacity. Rear drum is plenty sufficient, locks up easily.
 
It's more common to find the individual pieces. Even so, it's not particularly daunting, use a microfiche such as this to make sure you have it all. Ebay sellers aren't going to break the major components down, so you need to be concerned with finding a caliper, brake line and master. There's a thousand lever sets on there, pick a style you like that fits the bike your donor master came from.

http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/Motorcycle/1977/KZ650-B1/parts.html
 
It wouldn't take long to pop that triple off and smooth it out. Do it right the first time and you won't have an uglyreminder staring at you every moment you're on the bike.
 
That's the spirit. Also I believe a 750 twin triple clamp will bolt right on, it has rubber mounted risers and once they're pulled out there's just holes, doesn't look bad. The gaug tabs are much smaller and less noticeable too.
 
Did you take the caps off the top of the spark plugs? (so just the threaded top was on)

Or if that's how they came...did you get some other spark plugs and put the threaded caps from those onto the ones you just bought...? ::)

Haha.
 
Correct, you can have a hot wire going to a switch, mine is a hot wire going to a 10 amp switch (put a 10 amp fuse BEFORE the switch as they are cheaper than replacing switches...ask me how I know.. ::)) I used a dual toggle switch, where center was off, "up" was high beam, and "down" was low beam. You would then have one hot wire from each of the "low" and "high" going to the headlight, and the ground on the headlight going to ground up in the bucket somewhere. Most of the time if your bucket has metal and is clamped to the forks, it's already grounded, so no need to run a lead from the ground on the battery as that should be grounded to the motor itself, and thus the frame. Hope that all made sense.
 
Yes and no to answer your questions...haha ;)

Yes, your headlight on/off switch can double as your hi/low. This way, you can shut it off when starting the bike to give more juice to the coils/ignition system, less draw on the battery etc. If you do it the way I did with a 3 way toggle, it doubles as your ON switch for either high or low, and middle is the "off" position for both.

As for the ground for brakelight, well this all depends on how well your grounds are connected to the frame etc. Your brake light should have 3 lines coming from it. One is the BRAKE light, the other the running light, and the last being the GROUND for both lights. Your battery is grounded to the frame/engine usually a bolt on the back of the engine has a large black wire coming from it, and if I'm not mistaken, EVERY bike has this or your spark plugs wouldn't work, unless it's a two-stroke, in which the unit itself is grounded to the bike if I remember correctly :eek:) ..... So back on point, if your battery is attached to the frame, and your tail light is on your fender that is metal, one could use a bolt and bolt down the "ground" from the light so you wouldn't have to run it back up to the ground on the battery, seeing as they are technically one and the same. You would however, need the running light to be connected to BOTH high and low on the headlight switch, so that it always has power whether your highs or lows are on. (still following me?) Your brake switches (one for the front brake, and one for the rear brake lever) would then go to the BRAKE light lead from the light, so that when one of those is pulled/pushed it sends power to your BRAKE light.

Wow, that got long winded. Sorry about that. :-X
 
This pic BARELY shows you off to the left side in the back, you will notice there is a large black lead (painted over) that goes right off screen. This is my ground, you probably have one on your engine as well. I ended up moving it later, but you get the idea.
 

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Double check that your light from DCC is a DUAL filament bulb. I bet it is, and it uses the case to ground the lights. Try touching JUST the positive on your battery to the RED lead, and make sure your battery is grounded to the frame somewhere to see if that's the case. Some of the tail lights are JUST tail lights, but I read the description and yours is a dual. So do what I said with + going just to the red, see how bright it is, then positive to the black, see how bright it is, and hook up the appropriate connection (BRIGHT = brake light, faint = running light)

As for that lead. It's your starter motor lead, The tab is bent so that it would fit on your starter solenoid. If you were to have the battery grounded to the frame, and then touch that lead to the positive on the battery for a split second, it would turn the engine over (if your starter motor is working). Don't do this for too long, that's why we have solenoids and fuses, so we don't fry the system.
 
77' kz650

I know how you feel man.
Can't tell you how many times ive been pissed to read "hooked everything up and she started and ran like new on the first kick" makes me want to punch babies. Things like that never happen to me. Your experience seems more in line with my own haha
Keep on keepin on
 
Well, for the carbs, did you polish out the float valves? It's a trick that saves me some money and usually works if the needles aren't TOO bad. Get a q-tip and some BRASSO (polishing agent) and spin the q-tip one direction, you'll be amazed at how much stuff will come out, and it makes a new 'seat' for the float needle, so if the old part is worn, it will make a new spot for it and it usually seals. Sounds like your floats could be an issue too. good luck sir. oh and verify that you have spark on all 4 before doing anything further.
 
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